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Grey Ghost Crag


A rock pinnacle, roughly 200m from the track that crosses the saddle on the Ruggedy Mountains. With top access and three climbable faces, there is significant climbing and development potential.
The northwestern and southwestern aspects offer excellent and featured routes that are clean of vegetation, lichen and moss. There is some rotten rock (the quartz seams in particular), but once you have broken it off, it is solid. The southeastern aspect is lichenous in places and has some rotten flakes. There's a lot of potential for this face but would require some cleaning.
PROTECTION: Protection is poor or nonexistent on most of the routes. Scramble up NE ridge (vegetated) to create anchors at the top. Take a trad rack to place some protection (there's a bomber placement for a #5 BD cam) and you can also sling the top of the crag, which requires about 30m of rope. We recommend you drop a rope with alpine butterflies every metre or two and quickdraws attached. This will allow you to sport climb the routes.
WATER: The best and the closest water source is down the track to Waituna Bay. The map shows the stream as the first you'll cross on your way down from the saddle. You will pass some other muddy trickles on the way (not shown on the map), but don't bother with them. When you get to the stream, head downstream and make your way into a small gully. There you will find a waterfall: an ideal spot for filling containers and having a wash.
CAMPING: It is possible to camp right at the crag. You will find a clear area under the trees, on the north side of the crag. The area could accommodate 2-3 tents. There are not too many sandflies up there, which is nice.

From West Ruggedy Beach: 2-3hrs with a normal pack, up to 6hrs with climbing gear and food.
POINT (167.72685 -46.77376)

Walking south on the Northern Circuit from West Ruggedy Beach, continue until you reach the top of the saddle through which you cross the Ruggedy Mountains. Roughly 100m before the track descends into Waituna Bay, take a left into the bush, heading SE. Bush-bash for roughly 200m and you will find Grey Ghost Crag — the dominant granite rock pinnacle. Utilise smaller rocky outcrops to see above the bush canopy and locate the crag.

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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
SM Smooth Moves 17 15m
AVP The Ambassador, The Videographer and The Punter 11 15m
UJ Unicorn Jungle 12 15m
QotDH Queen of the Dragon’s Heart 14 15m
C.A.M C.A.M 14 15m
OI An Open Invitation 14 15m
LJ Little Jonny 16 20m
WiC The World is Charged 17 20m
RC The Romantic Case of Dr Jessica and Bombardier Mitchell 18 20m
CSaBM The Crashing Sea and Booming Waves 14 20m
Discovered and developed by Nick Allen, Mark Heighton and Allie Rood, with the support of Macpac, Black Diamond and Goal Zero. March 2019.