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Matai Wall

Type
Sector
Part of
Lookout Point

The main wall.

Aspect
South East
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
BTB BTBBetter than Babylon, 24 24 12m 5
1.02
  • P1
  • 24
  • 12m
  • 5

Starts below the other routes on this wall and finishes at DBA on shelf.
The crux is the top section, which goes right from the jugs below last bolt. The left-hand finish is good too, and makes the climb grade 22.
P PBIAS, 21 21 12m 7
0
  • P1
  • 21
  • 12m
  • 7

Left most bolted line off main shelf at base of wall. Cool moves on great rock. The climb was "Born In A Storm" as Peter O'Neill (equipper) puts it.
PV PVPerseverance, 19 19 12m 7
3
  • P1
  • 19
  • 12m
  • 7

DBA. Difficult finish
First Bolted route to the Left of the Chimney.
This climb is a 'must do' with nicely featured rock. A little pumpy. (PV)
W WWisecrack, 20 20 0m 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 20
  • 2
  • Trad

The crack on right side of wall and just left of chimney with a couple bolts when the crack runs out. Equipper: Peter O'Neill.
 Cracker Jack, 16 16 11m
0
  • P1
  • 16
  • 11m
  • Trad

Crack inside and on the left wall of Bluff's Big Chimney, also uses the arete, but you're not allowed to use the opposite side of the chimney.
BBC BBCBBC ( Bluffs Big Chimney), 16 16 10m
0
  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • Trad

DBA. Climb to the right of Cracker Jack inside the chimney. No use of the back wall otherwise your climbing a grade 12.
 The Riss, 17 17 7m 2
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 7m
  • 2

DBA. Big Blocks beside or part of the 'off-width' 10mtrs below the Matai wall.
 Foveaux Slab, 16 16 8m 3
0

The slab to the right of BBC. Clip the first bolt before starting to avoid
taking your belayer with you on a unplanned trip to the sea. Uses the slab
only, not the face on the right - that's another climb! Enjoy the view of the
sea as the ground slopes away as you climb...
DBA at top.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 8m
  • 3
 Hakuna Matata, 13 13 8m 3
0

The slab to the right of BBC, uses the wall on the right too. Clip the first
bolt before starting to avoid visiting the sea with your belayer. A good
beginner's lead with just enough feeling of exposure. Finish in the same way
as Foveaux Slab. DBA at top.

  • P1
  • 13
  • 8m
  • 3
Comments
UUID
 
3e26b473-d443-4324-9a37-b9ee1f77283d