

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Flotsam | 13 |
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left leaning corner. Needs more cleaning.
Ruari Macfarlane, Paula Macfarlane, June 2020
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Jetsam | 16 |
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Steep Corner crack starting 5m R of Flotsam, anchors on left hard to see from below. Cleaner than Jetsam, but at this stage (2020) still requires a thorough scrub. These two routes have the lowest quality rock on the crag.
Ruari Macfarlane, Paula Macfarlane, June 2020
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Southern Heart | 11 |
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Nice(!) offwidth, offering face gear to the left, if you forgot your big bros. Worthwhile. Blocks near top seem ok but may benefit from further cleaning...
Ruari Macfarlane, Paula Macfarlane, June 2020
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Once Were Hoiho | 15 |
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Twin crack stembox. Feels North American, very cool. Caution blocks near top - could use some TLC with tools...
Ruari Macfarlane, Paula Macfarlane, June 2020
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Starfish Stem | 16 |
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Chimney into widening stem, may be harder for shorter climbers.
Ruari Macfarlane, Paula Macfarlane, June 2020
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Shortbored | 12 |
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Up the West end of the large chimney behind the house sized flake, moving onto the Seaward block at the top, and walking across to rap from the Holy Mackrel anchor. Unprotected.
Ruari Macfarlane, June 2020
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Totally Tubular | 15 |
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Old school chimney behind the massive flake... shacked up! Get Californian on it. 15R, may feel harder. Initially runout, until increasingly reasonable gear begins to materialize towards the top (seaward wall). Shares anchor with Holy Mackrel.
Ruari Macfarlane, June 2020
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Holy Mackrel | 19 |
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Right side of the 'tubular' block. Start on cracks R of corner, transitioning into corner. Awaits an onsight.
Ruari Macfarlane, June 2020
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Craysy Crack | 17 |
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Beautiful wide corner crack. Lap it, and imagine yourself in Indian Creek.
Ruari Macfarlane, June 2020
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Silence of the Snails | 19 |
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Fantastic crack just R of arete (L of snails pace). Anchor is set back from lip. Possible to set up TR.
Ruari Macfarlane, June 2020
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Snails Pace | 18 |
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Deceptive right angle corner. Step across and up, jam to edges and jugs. Anchor is set back from lip. Possible to set up TR.
Ruari Macfarlane, June 2020
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Death From Below | 20 |
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L hand of the twin short cracks (6m) at the right (East) end of the crag. Shares anchor with its twin. Awaits an onsight.
Ruari Macfarlane, June 2020
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Blistering Barnacles | 16 |
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R of the two twin cracks at the left/East end of crag. Shared anchor. Good start leads to blockier ground. Possible to set up TR.
Ruari Macfarlane, Paula Macfarlane, June 2020
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