2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Southland
  5. Borland Valley
  6. Eagle Rock

Eagle Rock

(3 routes)

Rad

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
45 mins from Bivvy
Access: 

Across the catchment from the Main Bluffs. From the water supply of the bivvy rock keep sideling following a marked trail that tends upwards to a creek, from there you are on your own. The routes can either be access by abseiling in or from a ledge system from the lookers right- both of which can be committing.

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-45.749019000000, 167.436533000000
NZMS260: 
C44 773 808
Topo50: 
CE07 673 188
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Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
FR Flight Rules 25 30m
3
 5bolts wire representing trad
Ascend the flake to gain the rad dyke feature. Get ya layback on.
Open project.
RtL Ride the Lightning 26 29m
3
 4bolts wire representing trad 4
Either rap in or gain access to the starting ledge from the side. A stiff boulder problem leads into a stellar corner crack with great gear.
Project.
The Beak 5.9++ 2
3
Technical slab onto a ledge to very technical moves into a open triangle chimney into hand jams into difficult moves into a true off-width once actually in the off-width it's not too hard if you know how to climb off-width. Can be done with a single rack up to number 3 but you may feel more comfortable with at least one 4. No need for bigger gear as the crack narrows towards the back of the OW. Couldn't begin to give it an NZ grade .... Nothing like it here.
Helen
UUID: 
d3eeb091-3d01-4689-9adf-381950bcfb1d

Comments

Helen's picture

Submitted by Helen on Sun, 22/03/2020 - 14:07

Climbed the Beak on the 12th March a week or so ago. True off-width but can be done with a number 3 camalot if that's all you have.