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Eagle Rock

Type
Part of

Rad

Image
Walktime
45 mins from Bivvy
Aspect
North
Lat/lon
POINT (167.436533 -45.749019)
Topo50
CE07 673 188
Access

Across the catchment from the Main Bluffs. From the water supply of the bivvy rock keep sideling following a marked trail that tends upwards to a creek, from there you are on your own. The routes can either be access by abseiling in or from a ledge system from the lookers right- both of which can be committing.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
FR FRFlight Rules, 25 25 30m 5
3

  • P1
  • 25
  • 30m
  • 5
  • Trad

Ascend the flake to gain the rad dyke feature. Get ya layback on.


RtL RtLRide the Lightning, 26 26 29m 4
3

  • P1
  • 26
  • 29m
  • 4
  • Trad

Either rap in or gain access to the starting ledge from the side. A stiff boulder problem leads into a stellar corner crack with great gear.


 The Beak 5.9++, 2 2
3

Technical slab onto a ledge to very technical moves into a open triangle chimney into hand jams into difficult moves into a true off-width once actually in the off-width it's not too hard if you know how to climb off-width. Can be done with a single rack up to number 3 but you may feel more comfortable with at least one 4. No need for bigger gear as the crack narrows towards the back of the OW. Couldn't begin to give it an NZ grade .... Nothing like it here.


  • P1
  • 2

An off-width on the obvious 'beak' of eagle rock. Could this be NZ's hardest trad climb?? - nah I don't reckon but it is impossible to put a grade on it!. That's why I call it 5.9++ as it's what so many USA off widths are graded at...


Comments
Helen

Climbed the Beak on the 12th March a week or so ago. True off-width but can be done with a number 3 camalot if that's all you have.

Sun, 22/03/2020 - 14:07 Permalink
UUID
 
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