Matai Wall

(9 routes)

The main wall.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
South East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
BTB Better than Babylon 24 12m
1.02
5bolts
Starts below the other routes on this wall and finishes at DBA on shelf. The crux is the top section, which goes right from the jugs below last bolt. The left-hand finish is good too, and makes the climb grade 22.
Equippers: Kester Brown, David Liu, Peter O'Neill. FA: David Liu
P BIAS 21
0
Left most bolted line off main shelf at base of wall. Cool moves on great rock. The climb was "Born In A Storm" as Peter O'Neill puts it.
FFA Jimmy Finlayson Equip: Peter O'Neill
PV Perseverance 19 12m
3
7bolts
DBA. Difficult finish First Bolted route to the Left of the Chimney. This climb is a 'must do' with nicely featured rock. A little pumpy. (PV)
Pete O'Neill FFA 22 March 2015
W Wisecrack 20
1.02
The crack on right side of wall and just left of chimney with a couple bolts when the crack runs out.
Equipper: Peter O'Neill. FA: Kester Brown
Cracker Jack 16 11m
0
wire representing trad 1
Crack inside and on the left wall of Bluff's Big Chimney, also uses the arete, but you're not allowed to use the opposite side of the chimney.
Pete O'Neill October 2014 FFA
BBC BBC ( Bluffs Big Chimney) 16 10m
0
wire representing trad
DBA. Climb to the right of Cracker Jack inside the chimney. No use of the back wall otherwise your climbing a grade 12.
Pete O'Neill FFA March 2014
The Riss 17 7m
0
2bolts
DBA. Big Blocks beside or part of the 'off-width' 10mtrs below the Matai wall.
Dave Reese 23 March 2015
Foveaux Slab 16 8m
0
3bolts
The slab to the right of BBC. Clip the first bolt before starting to avoid taking your belayer with you on a unplanned trip to the sea. Uses the slab only, not the face on the right - that's another climb! Enjoy the view of the sea as the ground slopes away as you climb... DBA at top.
FFA Emily Jagoutz (October 2nd 2016) Equipper: Aran Jagoutz
Hakuna Matata 13 8m
0
3bolts
The slab to the right of BBC, uses the wall on the right too. Clip the first bolt before starting to avoid visiting the sea with your belayer. A good beginner's lead with just enough feeling of exposure. Finish in the same way as Foveaux Slab. DBA at top.
FFA Emily Jagoutz (October 2nd 2016) Equipper: Aran Jagoutz
UUID: 
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