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Second Buttress

Type

Part of

Lat/lon

-45.06242725,168.8020134, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

CC11 695 015

Approach

Access from Queens Drive

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality	Alert	Operations
4	4Not So Fortunate, M5	M5	25m		0
P1 Mixed M5 25m Steep crack with committing moves to DB belay LHS of buttress.
5	5Force It / LHC, 20,M4	20,M4	50m		2.01
2 pitches. P1 20 Mixed M4 25m Climb right facing corner, tending left after half height. Double bolt belay P2 Mixed M3 25m Second pitch runs to the top of the buttress and a further double bolt belay
7	7Ari-an Supremacy, M4	M4	0m		0
P1 Mixed M4 'Ari-an Supremacy takes the obvious gully about 7metres to the right of 'Force It'. I believe it now has a bolted anchor just to the right of the first major chimney section. It's best climbed as a trad route, going through two chimneys to pop out onto a large belay ledge about 30 metres up. Beyond there, Ari-an Supremacy traverses the ledge, turning a block, and climbing a small arete to eventually top out on the ridge. While the second pitch is fairly easy, there's not a great deal of pro. All in all, I'd say it's closer to 60-70m all the way to the top.'
7b	7bAri-an Retreat, M4	M4	60m		0
P1 Mixed M4 60m a direct finish from the start of the second pitch of Arian Supremacy; Above the belay ledge at 30 metres, the route heads directly for a roof with ‘awesome hooks,’ and then towards ‘easier ground’ on snow to the double bolt belay.
6	6Sam I Am, M6	M6	25m		1.02
P1 Mixed M6 25m Trad The steep roof crack between Force It, and Arian Supremacy. Pumpy moves lead up through the cracks and left to the belay of the first pitch of Force It
8	8Learning to Lead, M3	M3	45m		0
The double bolt belay was installed by Jono Clarke by traversing in from the gully. He then cleaned all the loose rock off pitch one and left the route for someone else to claim. During the 2015 Ice and Mixed Festival Daniel Joll told us to climb the first pitch for the learning to lead clinic, and I fell off at the crux before getting up on the second try. We went back a few days later to climb both pitches. Dan reckons the protection is good, but as a novice trad-climber, I didn't find many good placements for pro. P1 Mixed M3 20m Trad The right most crack and corner on the first buttress. Climb the corner on good protection to a double bolt belay. P2 Mixed M3 25m Trad From the double bolt belay head up via a right facing corner to the top of the buttress. Belay from the ridge
9	9Lovely Gully, M3	M3	35m		2.01
P1 Mixed M3 35m Trad Follow Gully tending right for 8m, through right facing corner. Belay in small alcove, DB Belay, or exit right to ridge -Joll. Left hand exit via wide crack (M4 variation) -Addis & Scott.

Comments

Attribution

Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL
ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

UUID

63562944-682b-4f8c-a548-ff17c259df02