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The Bolt Buttress

Type
Face
Part of
Telecom Tower

Access from Queens Drive

Lat/lon
-45.06242725,168.8020134, NZ Topo Map
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
15 15McFanny Goes Top Roping, 14 14 30m
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • 30m
  • Trad

Straight up through overlap then onto easy slab that protects with good cams in breaks. Take a full range of sizes.

16 16I’m a Pussy, 19 19 30m
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 30m
  • Trad

Start 5m left of Angel Cakes under small roof. Move up and right then back left to gain a crack near the arête. Continue up this and then cross the arête onto the slab of McFanny Goes Top Roping. Be careful not to fall off before you reach the first placement.
17 17Angel Cakes, 21 21 20m 5
0
  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 5
  • Trad

Take trad gear to #4 cam. Climb to bolted belay at the top of buttress.

18 18Sustained Loss of Traction, 21 21 0m 5
0
  • P1
  • 21
  • 5
  • Trad

Equipped with 5 bolts & natural gear. Another good traditional project bolted for the masses. Bolted & cleaned by Al Uren. Start up the crack with a few bolts then head left to join up with the top of Angel Cakes.
19 19Project, 14 14 0m
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Start as per McFanny Goes Bolting, or any other of the previous routes, and continue up the easy ridge to the summit ridge of the Telecom Tower.
Comments
Attribution
Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL
ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.
UUID
 
8ef4ea9c-98d9-41e8-8a92-2c362de2dca3