Scottish Jockey

Scottish Jockey is a distinctive chimney feature 50m right of White Jism. The first pitch has excellent climbing up mixed steps and ice bulges. Protection is plentiful with good wire placements and natural threads. Take a normal trad rack and 12-14 quick draws with the emphasis on long alpine draws and some slings for threads. There are numerous fixed pieces of tat but be wary of using them as they're likely to be degraded.

As of July, 9, 2025 two new double bolt belay/rappel anchors have been added. The first is at the end of Pitch 1 at about 45m. It is on the true left of the gulley about 5m up easy snow, from the top of the difficult climbing. The second anchor is at the top of Pitch 2 50m, where it finishes on the snow field, using the mixed finish. The second pitch is mostly rambly climbing with the odd interesting step, with an M3 finish up a slabby corner. Protection in the corner for the crux is good with small cams.

If the ice pillar is climbed there is still a double piton belay. The ice pillar doesn't appear to form with reliable ice due to warmer overall temperatures and may usually form as poorly bonded chandelier ice to a slab.