Small bouldering wall about 15 metres long and 4 metres high at points, Has about 15 normal problems ranging from V1 to V11 and after that there are some cool eliminants that never get boring. Good landings on most problems. It gets the afternoon sun.
Crag gets wet in the winter and the left hand side turns into a waterfall.
Climbs are listed from right to left.
Park at the end of Hillborough Tce, walk up the road up the hill for about 30 Metres until you come to a closed gate for Mt Vernon Park. Walk through the carpark and up the Valley Track for about 15 Minutes, on the 3rd gate that you come across you should be able to see a little shelter about 20 Metres ahead, Jump the fence to the left and walk down the trampled grass track for 10 metres and Voila! (make sure you don't accidentaly go off the Valley track and onto the Russel Track)
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Traverse Right to Left (No Glue), V10 | V10 | |||||
Start where Arachnophobia starts and traverse all the way along while actually being in (ish) the cave (not way up on the face) without the holds made of glue (ones with glue used to hold in place are allowed) Traverse all the way to the warm up the up and top out. Suspected to be around V10 |
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| Arachnophobia, V4 | V4 | |||||
The furtherest right line in the cave, usually covered with spiders webs. Start on the underclings and slap up onto the face, a foot up on the pillar and crank up to the mini arete then top out. |
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| Short But Sweet, V7 | V7 | |||||
The line to the left of Arachnophobia. Start on the big ball meet wrap and the right hand crimp (Start with feet ON THE WALL not on clay slab) cross into the big pocket and crimp followed by many more crimps leading up to the dyno finish to the large bucket-jug. Either finish there or top out if your a lunatic. |
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| Sasquatch, V10 | V10 | |||||
Start near the centre of the cave with left hand on the gaston and right on undercling. Hard pull on and slap with left hand to sloper. Bump right hand to crimp then throw the the good edge. Double take to good ball hold, then climb straight up the face on good holds. Finish right on the bucket |
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| Cramp, V7 | V7 | |||||
Start mid way under the roof in the middle on the big undercling. Slap up onto crimps then pull through to the big sloper. Finish as for Sloper Groper. |
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| Six Different Ways to Please Your Lover, V5 | V5 | |||||
The line of weakness through the cave. Start on the 'Cramp' jug, do a big move left into 'Sloper Groper' and continue on until you can bail left and top out 'Mr. Miyagi' (better climbed eliminating the left wall at the top). |
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| Sloper Groper, V6 | V6 | |||||
About in the middle of the cave. Starts on the big glued sloper, slap out onto the face then traverse right for a couple of moves and finish on the left way sloping jug. (Sketchy top out optional) |
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| Purity, V5 | V5 | |||||
Used to climb the glued crimps but have since been chipped off |
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| Mr Miyagi, V8 | V8 | |||||
Start on the left end of the cave with round edge for left hand and spike for right hand. Slap up with left hand then two moves with right hand to get to pinch. Heel hook with right and drop into crimp. Go to left hand edge then go right to the jug. |
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| Golden Tears, V4 | V4 | |||||
Sit Start on the big block with the gold glue seeping down the side, go right to the bi sloping rail, right to the the crimp then huck for the left rail. Easy dyno to the top lip. (don't go right hand around the right side arete to stay on the true line) |
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| End of the Rainbow, V1 | V1 | |||||
The warm up climb of the crag. The line just next to the shocking loose rock to the right of the dead tree. Straight up and into the seeping glued jug then easy top out. (Sit start on big flat hold for a little bit harder) |
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| Traverse Left to Right, V9 | V9 | 9m | ||||
Start on the far left of the main crag on the big flat hold. Traverse across and down into the roof. Climb through the roof (without using the jug made of glue) across to the big sloper then up the the lip and across on jugs to the far right bucket. |
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| Risk Vs Reward, V4 | V4 | |||||
On the left wall, The line directly to the left of where the waterfall runs. Sit start down on some underclings and mantle onto the face then climb the tricky face with a sub-optimal landing. Top out straight up to the top then just step off to the left. |
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| Diagon Alley, V4 | V4 | |||||
Start just to the right of "Golden Tears" on a big undercling, big move out onto a crimp on the face, slowly walk your feet up and top out straight up. (This line only works if you don't bridge at the top, the right hand wall of the V-slot is out) |
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| Left Wall Low Traverse (Right to Left), V6 | V6 | |||||
Start on the left wall just past where "Risk Vs Reward starts. Sit start on a rock with hands matched on the sloppy rail and low traverse traverse all the way across. Finish in the horizontal slots on the other end. |
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| Left wall Traverse Direct (Right to Left), V7 | V7 | |||||
Start as for the low traverse except at about half way do a big move up and left to a crimp and then finish up on the big sloper at the top. |
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| Pin Scars, V6 | V6 | |||||
The left line on the left wall. Sit start directly under the big cleaned out runnel thing. Pull on and do a couple of hard moves on tiny crimps, gain the sloping rail/arete and then finish on the big sloper jug. |
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| Such a Sandbag, V6 | V6 | |||||
Goes straight up the middle of the left hand wall. Sit start with hands on the undercling and the "ball" hold, big move over the lip then tricky face climb to the top. Finish on the Slopy "Jug" |
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