Mr Clean Wall

(15 routes)

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
BT Drop Out 21
0
6bolts
Start as for Bombs Away to the second bolt, traverse left to the arête. Climb the arête past four bolts to its highest point; belay as for DTB.
Tony Burnell
BA Bombs Away 22
1.02
3bolts wire representing trad 3
Not as slabby as it looks – very steep in fact. Start in bushes at left. A few desperate tree moves allow rock contact and bring the first bolt within clipping distance (pro available before the first bolt), tricky moves lead up to next bolt, an easier section follows. The headwall is tricky but pumped arms can be rested at the obvious rest. Double bolt belay over the top and back a bit.
Joe Arts, 1983
DTB Drop the Bomb 26
0
The deceptively steep groove to the R of Bombs Away. Up past the bolt, then up crack line and R at the top.
Dave Fearnley, 1987
How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb 27
2.01
4bolts
Start up Drop the Bomb, climb crux to good jug (and a cam if you want). Span right to great pocket and bolt then head up and right wards to 'the edge' on Clip or Fly. Finish up this route.
Derek Thatcher 2018
Dr Strangelove 32 14m
2.01
6bolts
Starts to the right of Drop the Bomb. Climb the vague arête and head right to the knee bar on Clip or Fly and finish on this route.
Derek Thatcher 2018
CF Clip or Fly 24
1.02
4bolts wire representing trad
The prow left of Scratching Julius. Shares the same start.
Peter Taw, 1991
SJ Scratching Julius 21
2.01
The obvious steep crack at the left end of the face. Technically only grade 17 climbing, but extremely sustained and powerful. Finish straight up (although R is easier). Good pro. Bolt chain belay at top of Bombs Away.
John Visser, 1981
FA Filet of Arnold 25
3
Pumpy climbing on good spaced holds. Four bolts.
Ton Snelder, 1989
Stars of Arnold 25
1.02
3bolts wire representing trad
Climb Stars and Stripes until established on top of the flake and then cut left to join Fillet of Arnold at its third bolt. A really good link.
John Harris, 2023
Stars and Stripes 23 19m
1.02
The weakness 3m R of Scratching Julius. An old aid climb. Follow the crack past a bolt to a wire fixed to one of the old aid bolts. Move around L and up the crack line. Continue to top.
Steve Schneider, 1987
MC Getting Rid of Mr Clean 23 19m
3
3bolts
Better than a work out at the gym. Strenuous and pumping. Start as for previous climb, but at the fixed wire continue straight up the wall to a further bolt protecting the top section. Bolt and chain anchor.
Ton Snelder, 1984
CK Citizen Kane 22
2.01
1bolts wire representing trad 1
The obvious crack line R of Mr Clean. A bolt at the start protects the crux, which is followed by a pump to the top. Good pro – though hanging around to get it in can be fun. Strenuous, so go fast. Has been top-roped by John Chambers in 52 seconds. Current record held by Lucas Larraman in 46 seconds.
Joe Arts, 1984
Citizenfour 26
0
5bolts
Route to the right of Citizen Kane. Span between the arêtes and head to jug and easier climbing to the Citizen Kane Anchor. Easiest to pre-place second draw.
Derek Thatcher 2018
Tupping Cecil 20 16m
0
The line to the R of Citizen Kane. Sustained, with good pro.
Pete Sykes, 1987
Hornets Nest 14
0
Just left of the descent gully.
Lindsay Main

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