Type:
Wall
Aspect:
South

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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BT | Drop Out | 21 |
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Start as for Bombs Away to the second bolt, traverse left to the arête. Climb the arête past four bolts to its highest point; belay as for DTB.
Tony Burnell
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BA | Bombs Away | 22 |
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Not as slabby as it looks – very steep in fact. Start in bushes at left. A few desperate tree moves allow rock contact and bring the first bolt within clipping distance (pro available before the first bolt), tricky moves lead up to next bolt, an easier section follows. The headwall is tricky but pumped arms can be rested at the obvious rest. Double bolt belay over the top and back a bit.
Joe Arts, 1983
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DTB | Drop the Bomb | 26 |
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The deceptively steep groove to the R of Bombs Away. Up past the bolt, then up crack line and R at the top.
Dave Fearnley, 1987
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How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb | 27 |
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Start up Drop the Bomb, climb crux to good jug (and a cam if you want). Span right to great pocket and bolt then head up and right wards to 'the edge' on Clip or Fly. Finish up this route.
Derek Thatcher 2018
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Dr Strangelove | 32 | 14m |
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Starts to the right of Drop the Bomb. Climb the vague arête and head right to the knee bar on Clip or Fly and finish on this route.
Derek Thatcher 2018
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CF | Clip or Fly | 24 |
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The prow left of Scratching Julius. Shares the same start.
Peter Taw, 1991
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SJ | Scratching Julius | 21 |
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The obvious steep crack at the left end of the face. Technically only grade 17 climbing, but extremely sustained and powerful. Finish straight up (although R is easier). Good pro. Bolt chain belay at top of Bombs Away.
John Visser, 1981
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FA | Filet of Arnold | 25 |
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Pumpy climbing on good spaced holds. Four bolts.
Ton Snelder, 1989
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Stars of Arnold | 25 |
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Climb Stars and Stripes until established on top of the flake and then cut left to join Fillet of Arnold at its third bolt. A really good link.
John Harris, 2023
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Stars and Stripes | 23 | 19m |
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The weakness 3m R of Scratching Julius. An old aid climb. Follow the crack past a bolt to a wire fixed to one of the old aid bolts. Move around L and up the crack line. Continue to top.
Steve Schneider, 1987
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MC | Getting Rid of Mr Clean | 23 | 19m |
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Better than a work out at the gym. Strenuous and pumping. Start as for previous climb, but at the fixed wire continue straight up the wall to a further bolt protecting the top section. Bolt and chain anchor.
Ton Snelder, 1984
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CK | Citizen Kane | 22 |
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The obvious crack line R of Mr Clean. A bolt at the start protects the crux, which is followed by a pump to the top. Good pro – though hanging around to get it in can be fun. Strenuous, so go fast. Has been top-roped by John Chambers in 52 seconds. Current record held by Lucas Larraman in 46 seconds.
Joe Arts, 1984
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Citizenfour | 26 |
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Route to the right of Citizen Kane. Span between the arêtes and head to jug and easier climbing to the Citizen Kane Anchor. Easiest to pre-place second draw.
Derek Thatcher 2018
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Tupping Cecil | 20 | 16m |
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The line to the R of Citizen Kane. Sustained, with good pro.
Pete Sykes, 1987
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Hornets Nest | 14 |
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Just left of the descent gully.
Lindsay Main
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UUID:
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