This wall is a nondescript area of gullies and buttresses, with significant earthquake damage. Most of the obvious lines have been climbed even if they are not listed, so don't get too excited. Generally the rock quality is not that great and the climbs could do with a few hours brushing, but there is the odd gem such as Moonlight Buttress.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Infinite Dress, 16 | 16 | ||||||
The obvious vegetated corner/gully. Start up the detached flake on the left and clip one of Joe's bolts to keep the rope clear. On up through the bulge on the left and pass the broadleaf tree. Fight the vege a bit and then easily up the upper corner. Step left low down to gain the anchor rings, or top out and scramble back down. Originally done as two pitches.
Just do it as one pitch. |
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Moonlight Buttress, 15 | 15 | ||||||
Excellent two-pitch route at a modest standard. First pitch up the short and dirty crack left of an overhanging arête with yellow lichen, to a large ledge with trees – anchor to one.
Directly up to a ledge above the anchor before moving right to the arête, then up past two bolts and some gear, with positions that are highly exposed for the grade. Anchor rings on the top will just get you down with a 60 metre rope in one abseil, but be wary of rope drag when pulling the rope. |
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Bumblebeebum, 17 | 17 | ||||||
A wall with a gully with a large jammed chockstone on the left. Up the juggy bulge and the centre of the grey slab. |