Left of Cave | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

The next wall to the left of the cave has six routes. There is a double anchor chain which is in the middle and well back from the top.

Left of the cave is Cul de Canard. Past the end of the cave is a curving flake/crack which is High Hopes.

Aspect

South

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Yikes, 20	20			0
P1 20 Trad Climb the steep thin crack to the Block And Decker chains.
	Jambandit, 19	19			1.02
P1 19 Trad Obvious leaning flake with a wide crack on the right side. Jam and layback the crack to the notch at the top and a manky chain - the double chain at the top of Block and Decker two metres left should be used as a primary anchor.
	Silk Road, 25	25		5	2.01
P1 25 5 Bridge up the corner to the roof, move right slightly & go straight over the roof to the anchors.
	The Brat, 17	17			1.02
P1 17 Trad The crack at the back of the huge obvious corner. Initially, move left on to ledge to gain the corner proper, then bridge and jam to a spectacular finish. Mid to large CDs and chain anchors. Lindsay Main '97
	High Hopes, 16	16	15m		0
P1 16 15m Trad This route takes the large flake and overhanging crack on the right wall of the big corner. Then up steep ground to chains at the top. Lindsay Main '94
	Long Live The Tuna, 17	17		1	0
P1 17 1 Trad Start a metre right of the overhang at a vague groove and bridge up to the first bolt, then natural pro with good holds to a steep finish. Joe Arts '98
	Brunswick Here We Come, 18	18		3	0
P1 18 3 Trad Two metres left is this wall with a seam and a small matagouri (CD placement). Steepening climbing past two bolts eases with a move to the right and another bolt, then it's cruisy to the top. Joe Arts '98
	Coming Through, 18	18			0
P1 18 Trad On a wall with yellow lichen is a thin crack which takes wires leading to a ledge, then up a vague left-facing corner with good pro initially. Steeply up on good holds and tie off a protruding knob with a sling; then easily to the top and a double chain well back and slightly left. Lindsay Main '98
	Reaction Time, 20	20		2	0
P1 20 2 Trad The overhanging wall with a small roof. Start as for Coming Through (wire pro) or slightly right. There's a wire placement in an odd slot just below the ledge. From the ledge up the wall and through the roof with two bolts, then easy climbing with natural pro. Lindsay Main '98
	Come Play With Me, 21	21			1.02
P1 21 Trad About two metres left is an overhanging crack with a partly formed right-facing corner. Start on the arete to gain the ledge, then strenuous moves up the crack follow (pro is hard to place). DBA placed at top of climb Dec 2011. Matt Abbot '91
	Cul de Canard, 19	19			0
P1 19 Trad Just left of the cave is a large flake (handle with care). Surmount the flake and climb the wall rightward, exiting at a right-leaning corner. Alan Hill '97

Comments

UUID

a8cb8712-efb1-4aaa-9b19-395bfc5abbd9