This area is a fairly steep slab with a vertical wall at its L end. The climbing is mostly in balance and fingery rather than strenuous.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Marc Bolan Memorial Arête, 19 | 19 | |||||
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The rounded arete between Corkscrew and Escalade. Good wires in Escalade for |
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| Uncompromising Vulture, 22 | 22 | 10m |  |
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Climb the first part of Sword in the Stone then move right below overhang on small under-cling hold and up (crux) to climb the short corner. Adequate pro. |
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| Thick as a Vulture, 23 | 23 | 12m | |
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Climb Uncompromising Vulture to the lip of the roof then hand traverse right to a large block. Scramble onto this and finish as for Thick as a Brick. A good route. |
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| Rampart, 17 | 17 | 13m | |
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The thin crack in the slab right of Rawhide. Quite delicate moves on hand holds in the crack. Subtle pro placements which run out. |
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| Rawhide, 18 | 18 | 13m | |
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The arete right of Escalade. Delicate balancy climbing on good holds. Pro only by leaning left to Escalade – not for the faint-hearted. Sustained. |
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| Sword in the Stone, 16 | 16 | 10m | |
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The prominent crack through a small roof at the left of The Cave. Jam or use the secret hold past the overhang (crux), then move easily up the corner. The first part of Rampart can be combined with the second half of Sword to give a grade 15 route. |
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| Corkscrew, 20 | 20 | 7m | |
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From the ledge, move right and up the steep wall to a good layback hold, then straight up and over the top. Small wires all over the place. Sustained. |
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| Escalade, 16 | 16 | 13m | |
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Climb onto pedestal, then up the groove, moving right at the top. Good pro in the right crack. Sustained. Alternative direct finish (18) not so well protected during crux. True diehards can climb just the protection crack (19/20). |
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| Gumby Snot, 18 | 18 | 0m | |
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Layback crack left of Corkscrew. |
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