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Dr Rock Buttress

Type
Altitude
400m
Part of

A rather small and remote bit of rock overlooking the tunnel entrance. Identifiable from the words ‘Dr Rock’ chipped on its right side.

Aspect
East
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Zero Kelvin, 21 21 0m 2
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 2
  • Trad

Short wall with 2 bolts. Balancy climbing to the left of the chickenhead. Up over ledges. Anchor with cams.


 Herb, 24 24 0m
0

  • P1
  • 24
  • Trad

A technical testpiece. The wall and prominent diagonal crack above the roof. A nasty move on the wall leads to underclings and then jams in a flared crack. Desperate right to the top. CD for pro.


 Crick, 18 18 0m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

Climb the steep crack on the wall facing the road.


 Peaches, 20 20 0m
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

The arete left of Herb. Quite technical with the crux near the top. Devious pro – double ropes essential.


 Fringe Dwellers, 22 22 0m 2
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 2
  • Trad

Destroyed in the 2011 Christchurch earthquake. Start at left end of cave, move right, then up crack & right to a rap bolt.


 Popperhead, 22 22 0m 1
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 1
  • Trad

Start at right end of cave, follow thin crack, left past bolt, right onto ledge to the top.


 Chickenhead Soup, 17 17 0m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

Climb the wall and crack in the middle of the wall right of the main overhang. Pro in the right-hand crack and chickenhead (if you dare!).


 The Red Sea, 17 17 0m 1
1.02

  • P1
  • 17
  • 1
  • Trad

Above Dr Rock is another wall. Climb thin crack diagonalling rightwards, then the arete.


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