This and the next large piece of rock, Watchtower Face, make up most of the `red side' (East) of Castle Rock. The climbing is characterized by balance climbing on adequate holds, with more seams than cracks, hence rather poor pro. Nursery slabs (20m L of Bastion Face) are two short slabs good for practising balance climbing. This side of Castle Rock tends to be sheltered from the southerly, but gets very little sun in winter and even in summer the climbs take a bit longer to dry. The other characteristic of this side is the profuse growth of red algae (which acts to decrease the coefficient of friction).
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yeoman, 9 | 9 | 0m |  |
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| Barbette, 6 | 6 | 0m | |
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| Clockwork Orange, 18 | 18 | 0m | |
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The orange slab on the left of the next significant wall. Battle left around the bush and then up, tending right at the top (crux). Pro in dirty crack near top left. |
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| Pass the Moloko, 21 | 21 | 0m | |
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The arête between Clockwork Orange and Born to Rot. Not entirely independent. Some of the top holds may pull off. No pro at all. |
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| Born to Rot, 18 | 18 | 0m | |
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The left-hand of the two grooves. Climb the groove and move R to finish. Limited pro. |
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| Trebucket, 14 | 14 | 0m | |
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The right-hand groove has had enough traffic to remove the algae. Straight up the groove, with the crux near the top. Not one of the better protected 14s. |
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| Ballista, 9 | 9 | 0m | |
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The easy groove 3m right of Trebucket. |
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| Thumbscrew, 15 | 15 | 0m | |
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Start 5m right of Ballista. Pulls through small overhangs on good finger jugs and then wander up to top. Sparse pro. |
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| Grapeshot, 15 | 15 | 0m | |
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Climbs a series of ledges just left of the major earthquake rock collapse. Not a classic. |
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