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Bastion Face

Type
Altitude
360m
Part of

This and the next large piece of rock, Watchtower Face, make up most of the `red side' (East) of Castle Rock. The climbing is characterized by balance climbing on adequate holds, with more seams than cracks, hence rather poor pro. Nursery slabs (20m L of Bastion Face) are two short slabs good for practising balance climbing. This side of Castle Rock tends to be sheltered from the southerly, but gets very little sun in winter and even in summer the climbs take a bit longer to dry. The other characteristic of this side is the profuse growth of red algae (which acts to decrease the coefficient of friction).

Image
Aspect
East
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Yeoman, 9 9 0m
0

  • P1
  • 9
  • Trad

 Barbette, 6 6 0m
0

  • P1
  • 6
  • Trad

 Clockwork Orange, 18 18 0m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

The orange slab on the left of the next significant wall. Battle left around the bush and then up, tending right at the top (crux). Pro in dirty crack near top left.


 Pass the Moloko, 21 21 0m
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

The arête between Clockwork Orange and Born to Rot. Not entirely independent. Some of the top holds may pull off. No pro at all.


 Born to Rot, 18 18 0m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

The left-hand of the two grooves. Climb the groove and move R to finish. Limited pro.


 Trebucket, 14 14 0m
1.02

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

The right-hand groove has had enough traffic to remove the algae. Straight up the groove, with the crux near the top. Not one of the better protected 14s.


 Ballista, 9 9 0m
0

  • P1
  • 9
  • Trad

The easy groove 3m right of Trebucket.


 Thumbscrew, 15 15 0m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

Start 5m right of Ballista. Pulls through small overhangs on good finger jugs and then wander up to top. Sparse pro.


 Grapeshot, 15 15 0m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

Climbs a series of ledges just left of the major earthquake rock collapse. Not a classic.


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