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Winter Wall

Type
Part of

This is a section of cliff with a western aspect. It’s sunny and very hot in the summer.
Between The Rocket and A Great Day for Up is a grove of broadleaf and flax which should be avoided through to the next climb.

Image
Aspect
West
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Nobody Expects The Spanish Inquisition, 22 22 5
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 5

Start below a triangular roof. Move slightly right past a bulge at the 2nd bolt to cross the roof, then up the wall climbing just right of the arête. Committing to the 3rd bolt, with groundfall potential. At the last bolt, haul through the bulge then step left to the new Face Race anchor.


 Naughty But Nice, 20 20 5
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 5

Start at a thin crack on the left side of a shallow scoop and pull through the bulge , then up the arête and over a couple more bulges. At the top there's minor quake damage and it's slightly runout, but you can move left to a rest, and there's optional extra pro (small cams). Now has its own 2-ring anchor.


 Speak Hers Corner, 19 19 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 5

A metre right. Bouldery moves at the first bolt, then nice climbing up a corner past four bolts and a cam to lowering chains or the Naughty But Nice anchors.


 Quake Effect, 22 22 5
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 5

Starts left of Speak Hers Corner a direct line up the crag avoiding the corner, tricky start and steep face climbing to finish.


 Moss Side, 22 22 4
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 4

About a metre right. Climb over a small overlap on finger-holds, with or without side-holds to the right. Then up the steepening wall (committing to the third bolt), with lichen on the top wall. Either move left to the Speak Hers Corner anchors, or climb the finish of The Rocket.


 Mancunian Way, 22 22 5
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 5
  • Trad

Climb the wall just left of a black stain past two bolts and place a wire below the bulge. Move right slightly into the niche and climb a bulge past two more bolts (strenuous) to a bush on a ledge. Finish as for The Rocket up a small wall above.


 The Rocket, 20 20 4
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 4

Start from the pedestal behind the broadleaf a few metres right and blast up the wall (committing start to the first bolt - don't lose power). Climb the overhanging groove above, or the wall just left. A short wall above the grassy ledge has a fourth bolt. Bolt anchors on the ledge above. Good climbing but take care on the start.


 A Great Day For Up, 20 20 1
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 1
  • Trad

Obvious crack with a roof near the top (crux). Pull into the crack from the right, then climb on the left. Use the anchor rings to the right.


 If I Ran the Circus, 21 21 3
2.01

  • P1
  • 21
  • 3
  • Trad

Start from a large pocket and climb rightward through the roof to the first bolt, then up the orange wall with an overhanging finish on jugs. There is a wire placement in the crack to the right before the second bolt.


 Hey Seuss, 22 22 1
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 1
  • Trad

An overhanging start through a roof leads to a bolt and a crack in a solid orange wall with natural gear. Harder than it looks. Two anchor rings.


 Self Discipline, 19 19 2
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 2

The wall on the right side of the corner, through a small bulge (crux) and up a steep finish. Originally climbed directly at about 21; at this grade use the big jugs to the right. Single bolt anchor.


 Waltzing In The Hills, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

Climb the arête on the right side, using good natural protection from wires and cams.


 Orange Roughy, 22 22 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 3

Start as for Hey Seuss, moving right past the first bolt onto the orange wall. Haul on the crimpers past two more bolts, with an optional small wire to protect the finish. Three bolts. John Iseli, 2001.


 12XU, 21 21 0m 1
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 1
  • Trad

Overhanging start with strenuous hauling through a triangular roof to the bolt (loose holds), then a section of crack with natural gear. Move left to the Hey Seuss anchors.


 El Dorado, 19 19 0m 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 3

On the right wall of the broken arête, just left of the corner. Start below the fuchsia bush and pull up on jugs past three bolts. There are no anchors, which is a real pain as you have to scramble rightward to the single anchor bolt of Self Discipline.


Comments
petemoore

The roof start of "Hey Seuss" and almost all of the 3 routes Orange Roughy, 12XU and El Dorado appear to have been destroyed in the quakes.

Mon, 03/10/2016 - 13:59 Permalink
UUID
 
dfcfcc8e-df03-4f83-a346-ec44a0a7c382