Spyglass Wall

(11 routes)

A fairly high, somewhat broken wall, with overhangs all along the lower part.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
The Swagger 18
Start as for the next route and move past the first two bolts heading left to the grassy ramp/corner. When the angle relents move right over easy ground to the anchor bolts. You can abseil from the next set of anchors. Two bolts and natural protection. Joe Arts, 2000.
Rouseabouts 21
Start on the left wall of a corner below a roof and move left past a bolt. Clip the bolt above the bulge and move right on to the small wall between the roofs and pull through on to the wall; then up an easy section and finish directly on steepening ground. Anchors to the right. Seven bolts. Joe Arts, 2000.
The Subterraneans 20
Start in the corner and climb to the roof; then move right to the arete (crux) and up. Continue up, passing the fourth bolt to the right. Straight up over two small bulges. Six bolts. Joe Arts, 2000.
Babes In Rice Rockets 21
An obvious line following a notch through a roof. Desperate clip at the first bolt; then easier climbing on the wall above, eventually heading leftward following the weakness to exit at a good crack. Three bolts and extensive natural protection. Joe Arts, 2000.
He Who Hesitates... 21
Is not going to get up this one. Start in the corner, or on the wall just to the left and pull through the roof past two close bolts on small holds. Move up carefully and clip a high third bolt, then cruise up the left side of the arete and around to the right of the top prow, finishing in the gully. Five bolts and double anchors. Lindsay Main, 2000.
Official Sanction 18
Start in the corner and clip the first bolt of HWH. Climb the overhanging intermittent crack heading slightly right on good jugs to easier ground; then tend left past the ice plants to finish in the top corner. One bolt and good natural protection. Lindsay Main, 2001.
Coventry Street 25
Starts a few metres left of Easy Street. Difficult moves over the initial roof. Climb straight up the face moving into the right facing corner finish straight up this to a belay on the glassy ledge above. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell 2001
Easy Street 25
Starts a few metres left of Lombard Street. Difficult moves over the initial roof. Climb straight up the face using the crack systems that split the face. Exit easily leftwards to the belay above Lombard Street. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell 2001
Lombard Street 23 20m
Almost at the right end of Spyglass Wall. Starts at large hold just left of a low roof. Delicate moves up to the third bolt then traverse slightly right (crux) and up on small blocks past the fourth bolt. (Don't mistake the third bolt of Illicit Treasure for the fifth bolt of this climb where the two come together). Climb some great moves out left along a horizontal break past the fifth bolt and up to the 6th, heading left around the corner for relatively easy climbing to the top. Six bolts and shares Illicit Treasure's anchor.
Andrew Buist, 2000.
The Big Mac Combo 19 20m
On the prow at the end of Spyglass Wall. The routes come together in the middle at a convenient rest spot. A fantastic combination climb known as The Big Mac Combo can be done by climbing the lower half of Illicit Treasure and the upper half of Lombard Street, which would be a 2 star grade 19.
Illicit Treasure 21
Pleasant climbing on good rock just right of Lombard Street. Climb the arĂȘte on yellow lichen right of the first bolt and over a bulge to a rest. Excellent moves follow three more bolts on the right of the buttress, with the crux near the top. Five bolts, double ring anchor.
John Iseli, 2000.