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Gorse Wall

Type
Part of

An area of short walls and buttresses of variable quality above the area of gorse. Hopefully the name of the wall will become inappropriate eventually.

Aspect
West
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Summer Sun Direct Start, 17 17
0

  • P1
  • 17

Start off two good jugs below the first bolt followed by powerful moves, keeping left of the first bolt. Move back right at the second. Perry Buist, 2001.


 Summer Sun, 16 16 3
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 3

Short climb about eight metres right of Illicit Treasure on the left side of the vegetated corner. Start up Supervegeman and move left onto the face to clip the first bolt. Stay right after the third bolt where it’s cleaner. Ring anchors.


 Supervegeman, 14 14 3
2.01

  • P1
  • 14
  • 3

The easiest bolted climb of the crag (climbed solo on the first ascent). Straight up the vegetated corner with nice bridging all the way to the top. Shares the Summer Sun anchors.


 Dazzle Man, 17 17 3
2.01

  • P1
  • 17
  • 3

Nice face climbing on good holds. Start two metres right of a vegetated corner. Rock over on to a big hold, and clip the first bolt. Continue up past two more. Ring bolt anchor with chain.


 Austin Powered, 18 18 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 4

Start two metres right below a small roof. After clipping the first bolt, tend left over the lip (crux) to clip the second bolt. Easier climbing on nice holds past the next two bolts (don't miss the last bolt out right) then climb back left to the anchors. Four bolts and anchor rings (which were moved to reduce damage to the tree after it was mutilated by some pill-brain). Andrew Buist, 2000.


 Comfortably Numb, 21 21
1.02

  • P1
  • 21

Starts about three metres right of Austin Powered on the left side of a corner. Take care of the vegetation - you can incorporate a two-metre boulder traverse to avoid stomping the Muehlenbeckia. Powerful moves on good holds up to the lip. Climb left at the second bolt then continue up past the third bolt and the last bolt of Austin Powered. Don't trash the vegetation at the bottom when lowering off. Andrew Buist, 2000.


 Merlin The Unhappy Pig, 18 18
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

Up a wide crack with natural protection, through bulges past a fern, then move right to the Stumpy anchors. Joe Arts, 2000.


 Stumpy, 21 21 3
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 3

Start a metre right and boulder rightward past the first bolt to a rest below the bulge. Move left past the second bolt to surmount the bulge. Easier climbing on the wall above. Three bolts, double ring anchor set back from the top. John Iseli, 2000.


 Cracked Up, 20 20
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

Boldly boulder up the wall to the left of Humpy Pumpy to a stance below the groove. Climb the crack above on natural gear and finish at the Stumpy anchors. John Iseli, 2001.


 Humpy Pumpy, 22 22 3
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 3

The steep face three metres right of Stumpy. Good moves through the overlaps, finishing leftwards after the third bolt up easy ground to the Stumpy anchors. Three bolts. John Iseli, 2000.


 Squash The Dog, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

Wide crack with a roof, good natural gear. Move left to the Humpy Pumpy anchors. Joe Arts, 2002.


 Spooky Two, 22 22 3
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 3

Awkward moves on to a hanging slab. Up the arête on the left and back right into the crack/groove to finish. Three bolts. Tony Burnell, 2002.


 Overhaul, 23 23 4
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 4

Two metres right. Steep climbing on good holds following the arete on the right side of the face. Pass the third bolt on the right, moving left past the fourth. Four bolts, double ring anchor. John Iseli, 2002.


 Gastronomic, 21 21 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 3

Climb the left side of the solid grey wall, staying left of the native shrub at half height. Start about 30m right of Overhaul. Clip the third bolt from a large hand hold to the right, moving up and left of the bolt for an interesting climax. Shares anchors with Kikorangi Triple Blue.


 Kikorangi Triple Blue, 22 22
1.02

  • P1
  • 22

A compact looking little wall left of an obvious left-facing corner. Climb between the crack and the bolts on small crimps, staying right of a native shrub on a small ledge. Ring-hanger anchors.


 Ara Takahanga, 19 19 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 4

The obvious left-facing corner. Technical climbing directly up the corner, exiting via over the final bulge and up an easy chimney. There are belay stations either up and left or on the ledge on the right. Four bolts. Tony Burnell 2001.


 Black & Blue, 20 20 5
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 5

Start as for Ara Takahanga in the corner, and from the first bolt move out right onto the rib. Continue up and rightwards across the wall to a large hole; then finish up and right of the last bolt before stepping back left to a belay station on a ledge. Five bolts. Tony Burnell 2001.


 Black Jack, 21 21
1.02

  • P1
  • 21

A few metres right this ascends the solid black wall. Boulder up steep rock to the 'dinner-plate' and pull hard to reach the ledge above the first bolt. Continue up past the large chicken head to easier climbing with natural gear (wires or small cams) on the wall above. Two bolts, double ring anchor slightly left. John Iseli, 2001.


 Noah's Ark, 22 22 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 5

Starts just right of Black Jack. Hard pulling initially followed by easier climbing up past the boat shaped outline in the rock. Finishes up the corner or the bulging face to the right. Nicer than it looks. Five bolts. Andrew Buist, 2001.


 Yellow Peril, 26 26 7
0

  • P1
  • 26
  • 7

Starts just right of Noah's Ark below a shallow right facing groove under the obvious yellow wall. Climb easily up the groove and move over a crumbly roof into a series of crumbly pockets and a good rest position on Noah's Ark. Swing out right into an exposed position and climb up, strenuously, into the steep groove under a large roof. Finish easily to the top. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell 2001.


 Give The Dog A Phone, 22 22 6
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 6

A few metres right is a line of six bolts through the overhangs. Move up to first bolt from right, then continue past second bolt to a balancy stance below the third. Easier out right, but instead launch up and left, and link a couple of pockets with wild moves. Continue with a long reach to a good hold right of final bolt. From there move left across the void to finish at a double anchor station. Very sequential. Simon Courtois, 2001.


 The Price You Pay, 21 21 4
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 4

Maybe 20. Start at the toe of a buttress and climb past the first bolt on crumbly rock. The wall steepens with a committing move to the last bolt, followed by a mantle on to the ledge. Double anchor bolt to the right. Four bolts. Simon Courtois, 2000.


 It's Only Natural, 20 20
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

Starts a metre further right and climb to a ledge, then place gear on the right and climb the wall to a rest below a broken crack. Steep and committing finish through the overhang. Anchor to the rings on TPYP to the left. Wires and cams. John Iseli, 2001.


 Devious, 22 22
0

  • P1
  • 22

Start as for Prowler, moving left at the third bolt. Hard pulls past the fourth bolt, then keep it together to the top. Five bolts, and a large wire/small cam is useful at the top. Use Prowler's anchors. John Iseli, 2001.


 Prowler, 20 20 5
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 5

Ascends the steep prow at the right end of the wall. Climb easily to the second bolt, moving right to gain the third bolt. Straight up the prow past two bolts on good holds. Five bolts, double ring anchors. John Iseli, 2001.


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UUID
 
77b2ab3f-d97e-401b-8e5b-3ae9775893e8