Flax Wall

(6 routes)

This is a distinctive wall about 50 metres right with a clump of flax and broadleaves at the base. The lower part of the wall is low-angled, but the upper part is steeply overhanging.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Rhythm Method 21
Easyish climbing with optional gear to the first bolt, then the wall gets steep and the holds get small. At the last bolt move left on to the rib and up (crux); then keep it together to the anchor bolts (optional mid-sized cam placement). Three bolts. Dave Shotwell, 2000.
The Gimp 23
The prominent overhanging corner line in the middle of the wall. From below the broadleaf climb the easy wall on the right of a groove to a bolt at four metres. Move left across the groove and up past another bolt until the overhanging corner looms above. Swing up past three bolts, surmount the roof (crux), and place a good medium wire or small cam to protect the easy finish. Great varied climbing, but there is some alarmingly loose rock. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
Wasssup? 22
Start a couple of metres right from behind the broadleaf tree. Up the steepening yellowish wall followed by a mantle onto the obvious ledge and exit left past the lichen covered rock. This climb shares Gimp's anchor so that climbers do not damage the broadleaf tree when lowering. Because of the position of the anchors, it is easiest clearing the gear on second and abseiling down. Six bolts. Andrew Buist, 2001.
Cookie Monster 20
Two metres right, this is the left of two grooves above an easy slab. Start up the slab until a bolt is reached at the start of the steep stuff. Move left into the overhanging groove and up past two more bolts, with a move right at the top. Double bolt anchor in a boulder four metres back. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
Identity Crisis 20
Start just right of the trees, climbing a slab easily to the first bolt (shared with Cookie Monster), then take the right crack and groove past another bolt. Technical moves, then easy to the top, and left to the Cookie Monster anchors. Two bolts. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
Drama Queen 18
Three metres right. Climb a short face with a vague crack to the right, and up the wall on good holds to the grassy ledge. There's good gear if you can find it, plus some odd placements. From the ledge place gear in the crack and bridge leftward into the scoop (crux), with an easy finish. Natural protection, use the bolt anchors to the left. Marcus Thomas, 2000.


The Gimp is makes this a crag worth visiting, however there is a bit of loose rock around so extra care should be taken.