At the far end of the valley, to the right of the Leech Wall.
Walk the left hand side track up the valley. Walk up the Eastenders track, there is a turn off, about 10mins from the substation. Take the track that sidles rightwards (south) into the head of the valley, go under the base of the Sunnyside Crag, a track goes under bush into the creek bed and emerges just left of Soyanara at Leech Wall. Follow the bottom of the crag past Leech wall to the right and round for about 50 metres.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
SC | SCShower in a Can, 17 | 17 | 5 | ||||
The large left trending, groove adjacent the trees close to the crags left end. Exit onto the face rightwards and up to the anchors. |
|||||||
OX | OXOrient Express, 19 | 19 | 5 | ||||
Climbs the left arête of the buttress then over a small bulge at half height, continue straight up the wall to the shared anchor. |
|||||||
To | ToTsingtao, 19 | 19 | 5 | ||||
About two metres right of the groove, climbs the shallow groove / crack line on the left side of the prominent arête, finish at the common anchor. |
|||||||
BC | BCBoy from China, 19 | 19 | 5 | ||||
Another metre or so to the right is an obvious crack line that goes to a small capped roof, go around the roof to the right. |
|||||||
CC | CCChina Crisis, 23 | 23 | 5 | ||||
Right again is short capped corner, climb this and the parallel cracks above then the steepening wall to the anchors. |
|||||||
PR | PRD'want, 15 | 15 | 5 | ||||
Around the arete is a wide capped V groove. Bridge up the groove to the overlap and move right below (harder) or above (easier) it on to the right wall and up to the anchors. |
|||||||
Steve Says, 14 | 14 | ||||||
Climb the obvious crack to the left of Concrete and Clay. At the top, traverse left to the anchors. Plenty of places for protection, traverse to the bolts wasn't overly enjoyable |
|||||||
C&C | C&CConcrete & Clay, 22 | 22 | 5 | ||||
Climb directly onto the ledge at 3.0mts below the shallow groove, climb the groove using the curvaceous features before moving out left onto the arête like feature to steeper rock, continue straight up to an anchor on the right. |
|||||||
FB | FBThe Frumious Bandersnatch, 26 | 26 | 15m | 6 | |||
Right up the centre of the overhang. Climb to the ledge then up over the large 'scrotum' feature. Clip the cluster of bolts (a product of the bolters inexperience) then proceed to crush for the next 10 metres to the double ring anchors. |