Wye Creek Ice Main Area

2 pitches

A classic. 2 30m pitches, or 1 60m pitch. First half is a great steep pumpy pillar. The 2nd half is a little easier, with a shorter but steeper hard bit.

WI4+. The blobs just right of Why?, finishing at the same halfway lower angled section. Then V-thread off, or finish as for Why?

The steep flow

The lower-angled right-hand side. WI2+ or 3-.

This is the name given to the entire upper tier left of Fear of Flying. Really it is at least 4 or 5 individual lines, which range from WI3 to WI4. Maybe the most popular route at Wye Creek is the left-hand most line, which is a nice WI3 pitch that starts steep and eases as you get higher. Double bolt belay on the left wall at about 20m. For the other lines, it's V-thread or walk off.

A good steep pillar. The difficulties ease after about 10-15m and you can V-thread off. The climbing does continue for 50m or so to the top though.

You can use the three bolts on the right wall to climb the ice at the start, which doesn't always form. Two bolts for the rock moves through the roof to the left at top of ice then onto ice dagger and climb around this to belay on ice ledge above.

To the two bolts at start of steep wall is M7. Extension to top of crag has not been climbed.

Bolted roof between hot water & TMKF that goes into the hanging dagger (if its in). Double bolted anchor