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Wall of the Evening Light

Type
Part of

Facing west underneath the viewing platform at the top of Shadow Basin.

Image
Access

Downclimb gully directly below saddle above shadow basin, or rappel face.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Afterglow, WI4,M4 WI4,M4 0m
0

3 pitches.


  • P1
  • Water Ice WI4
  • Mixed M4

 Charmer, WI2,M3 WI2,M3 0m
0

3 pitches.


  • P1
  • Water Ice WI2
  • Mixed M3

 Pandora's Box 0m
0

  • P1

a layback and easy open-book corner


 Arago Spot, M4 M4 50m
0

A nice corner, immediately left of once.


  • P1
  • Mixed M4
  • 50m
  • Trad

 Once, 23,M7 23,M7 12m
2.01

  • P1
  • 23
  • Mixed M7
  • 12m

Curving crack. Four un necessary bolts lead to a single bolt belay and fixed carabiner. The crack protects well with offset and regular nuts, 2 x .5, 1 x 2, 1 x 3 camalot. Makes an excellent all natural protection route. Very enjoyable dry tooling or summer rock climb. The anchor could use a second bolt, and the bolts in the crack dont need to be there. Excellent natural protection.See pic below for wires used.


 Straight Outta Chemo, M7 M7 40m 1
3

Access by rappeling down Vertiginous to the lower snow field. Head north to pitch 1


  • P1
  • Mixed M7
  • Trad

  • P2
  • Mixed M4
  • 15m
  • Trad

Pitch 1: Head up the vegetated/offwidth corner before trending slightly rightward, mantling the small block and up the rock slab. Below in the crack below the chockstone.


  • P3
  • Mixed M5
  • 25m
  • 1
  • Trad

Pitch 2: Climb the crack with the chockstone before cutting right, clipping a single bolt before heading upwards to the base of pitch 1 of Vertiginous. Belay at the base of the crack.


  • P4
  • Mixed M7

Pitch 3: Climb up pitch 1 of Vertiginous. Long moves between good hooks on strenuous feet up the crack and through a small overlap. To belay either use the existing trad anchor at the base of pitch 2 of Vertiginous, which has fallen down or cut right across the small foot ledge to belay on the double chain anchor.


 B12, 19 19 30m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 30m
  • Trad

corner


 Dying Light, 19 19 50m 11
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 50m
  • 11

From the access ledge rappel for 45 metres from a backed-up ring to reach a small legde on the lip of a huge overhang. Climb up and left to an horizontal break then up and traverse back right for the last 10 metres to access ledge. A rack of wires and cams are necessary.


 Push Play, 23 23 25m 8
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 25m
  • 8

23/24 bolted sport climb near the right hand end of the upper tier.


 Stease, M6 M6 155m
0

The right leaning diagonal crack to right of major chimney on face. A mixture
of style and ease would be desired to overcome the full on first pitch,
neither of which was shown on the FA, with a mixture of whimpering, digging,
grovelling, whippers, power screams and eventual sending. Knees were used on
several occasions.


  • P1
  • Mixed M6
  • 30m
  • Trad

To the right of the major chimney in the face, initially follow a low angle ramp diagonally right, before stepping with difficulty into a chossy offwidth, improving into a right leaning double crack system. Crux is a roof at the top with good gear.


  • P2
  • Mixed M3
  • 40m
  • Trad

Follow the chimney, followed by some ice and a turfy corner.


  • P3
  • Mixed M4
  • 45m
  • Trad

A direct line. Follow a low angle left leaning corner, followed by a series of steep steps with good gear when needed.


  • P4
  • Mixed M4
  • 40m

A couple of steep steps.


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UUID
 
2f2a82c3-d497-4171-be6b-ee21aa520415