One established route, but potential for many more.
Two lines have been tried just right of the first pitch and
directly above the initial belay. They are trad projects and
involve some exciting face climbing up to an overhanging bulge. They have not been lead cleanly.
Its probably worth pre-inspecting and doing some more cleaning, before
trying these on gear, as the climbing through the roof will be committing.
Below and right of the first pitch is a 30m wall with great rock and nice
slabs. Not a lot of gear on these, so the routes have been top roped only.
Continue up the grassy ledge for approx. 200m. This will bring you to the
base of two walls one on your left and one on your right. Both walls look to
have some good rock and nice crack lines running up them.
Routes are probably four – five pitches.
9 Pitches:
As you cross the stream at the base of
along a grassy ledge (bit exposed but easy) until a small
flat spot. On your left is a slightly vegetated corner the
route starts here. Pitch one: head up this corner to arrive
at a grassy ledge, then traverse right to double bolt belay.
Follow up crack above for 60m to double bolt belay. Continue
up right leaning crack, then straight up the right facing
wall on your left to grassy ledge. Pull over small vertical
step, then up slab to grassy bank. Continue up this for
30m to the base of some nice looking slabs. Up the slabs
for 3 pitches, then keep heading for another three pitches
until you reach the summit. Descent is by rappel on double
bolt rings. There is one 70m rap 3rd abseil from the
ground. Abseil 60m then make a belay in the right facing
corner described in pitch 3. Belay your partner down 7m
to the next double bolt belay station. The down climb is
easy about grade 12. The upper three pitches of this route
are not that good, but they give you a good adventure, if
you are looking for one.
