Second Buttress

(7 routes)

Place info

Second Buttress

(7 routes)

It has two sets of top rope anchors for dry tooling practice.
No recorded routes to date. It has potential for several winter
lines. The rock is quite mossy so will require a bit of
brushing before any rock climbs can be enjoyed.

Map, Topo

Type:

Crag

Access:

Access from Queens Drive

NZMS260:

F41 795 633

Topo50:

CC11 695 015

Reference	Name	Grade	Quality	Length	Comments
4	Not So Fortunate	M5	0	25m
	Steep crack with committing moves to DB belay LHS of buttress. Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune, 2012
5	Force It	M4, M3	2.01	50m
	2 pitches. Climb right facing corner, tending left after half height. Double bolt belay Second pitch runs to the top of the buttress and a further double bolt belay Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune, 2012
7	Ari-an Supremacy	M4	0
	'Ari-an Supremacy takes the obvious gully about 7metres to the right of 'Force It'. I believe it now has a bolted anchor just to the right of the first major chimney section. It's best climbed as a trad route, going through two chimneys to pop out onto a large belay ledge about 30 metres up. Beyond there, Ari-an Supremacy traverses the ledge, turning a block, and climbing a small arete to eventually top out on the ridge. While the second pitch is fairly easy, there's not a great deal of pro. All in all, I'd say it's closer to 60-70m all the way to the top.' Ari Kingan, Peter Harris, August 2013
7b	Ari-an Retreat	M4	0	60m
	a direct finish from the start of the second pitch of Arian Supremacy; Above the belay ledge at 30 metres, the route heads directly for a roof with ‘awesome hooks,’ and then towards ‘easier ground’ on snow to the double bolt belay. Jono Clarke, Frazer Attrill, August 2013
6	Sam I Am	M6	1.02	25m
	The steep roof crack between Force It, and Arian Supremacy. Pumpy moves lead up through the cracks and left to the belay of the first pitch of Force It FWA Jono Clarke
8	Learning to Lead	M3, M3	0	45m	1
	The double bolt belay was installed by Jono Clarke by traversing in from the gully. He then cleaned all the loose rock off pitch one and left the route for someone else to claim. During the 2015 Ice and Mixed Festival Daniel Joll told us to climb the first pitch for the learning to lead clinic, and I fell off at the crux before getting up on the second try. We went back a few days later to climb both pitches. Dan reckons the protection is good, but as a novice trad-climber, I didn't find many good placements for pro. The right most crack and corner on the first buttress. Climb the corner on good protection to a double bolt belay. From the double bolt belay head up via a right facing corner to the top of the buttress. Belay from the ridge Jin Cong, Gabriela Scheufele, August 2015
9	Lovely Gully	M3	2.01	35m
	Follow Gully tending right for 8m, through right facing corner. Belay in small alcove, DB Belay, or exit right to ridge -Joll. Left hand exit via wide crack (M4 variation) -Addis & Scott. Daniel Joll solo, 2012Rob Addis & Andrew Scott (M4 variation)