Searching for Sumo Buttress

(4 routes)

Access from Queens Drive, between Telecom Tower and Double Cone.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Lat/Lon: 
-45.064185360000, 168.805360790000
NZMS260: 
F41 797 631
Topo50: 
CC11 698 014
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
75 Flying Circus M5
0
Deep corner left of IiB to snow ledge, continue direct onto rib, left hand edge of corner, finish up headwall.
Ben Dare, Roman Nelson, 2012.
76 Ignorance is Bliss
0
M4+. Start up corner left of S4S, traverse right under overhang. Follow slopey corners up center of buttress.
Reg Measures, Neil, 2012.
77 Searching for Sumo , ,
0
wire representing trad
M5+. 5 Pitches. Follows a vague ridge with many options for either bailing or moving left or right to easier ground. To get the full tick each time you arrive at a variation or crack system take the steepest option.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
10mNo
 M5+. 5 Pitches. Follows a vague ridge with many options for either bailing or moving left or right to easier ground. To get the full tick each time you arrive at a variation or crack system take the steepest option.
20mYes
 Pitches 2 and 3 also have some hard moves on good gear.
30mNo
 The final pitch is an excellent 50m steep corner which is accessed by down climbing 15m from the top of pitch 4. As with lower down there are easier variations on both the left and right hand sides of the final pitch.
Daniel Joll, Craig Jefferies, 2011.
78 Project
0
Summer or winter climb the ridge direct starting at the left hand toe. This would avoid most of the difficulties of Searching for Sumo.
Attribution: 
Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.
UUID: 
5624239a-f96d-4e91-a285-6605eba6a7a4