Red Wall | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

Directly below Telecom Tower, the Red Wall is a striking, steep, red coloured wall. Fridays Fool is classic ice line to left of Red Wall.

Lat/lon

-45.06242725,168.8020134, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

CC11 695 015

Approach

Along Queens Drive.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Half Century Celebration, M6	M6	60m		0
P1 Mixed M6 60m ‘fairly run out’ direct start to the left of Fridays Fool, limited gear, thin ice made some sections possible, 'a couple of spots with a minimum 10m run out between gear.’
57	57Covfefe, M4	M4	55m		2.01
A corner leading into a large flake system just left of Book of Fools exiting Fridays Fool gully. P1 Mixed M4 30m Trad Starts 10m left of book of Fools in snow gully section 2 pitches up Fridays Fool. Right facing corner 2 cracks left of book of fools corner. P2 Mixed M5 25m Trad Up a thin pick seam to roof/corner/flake feature. Absolute stonker of a pitch.
57b	57bOnly Fools and Horses, M5	M5	40m		0
The crackline immediately left of Book of Fools, coming out of snow basin above ice pitches of Friday's Fool. Can rap from above this pitch back to Fridays Fool Gully and do all 3 routes (Book of Fools, Only Fools and Horses, and Covfefe) P1 Mixed M5 40m Trad Crack to left of Book of Fools and right of Covfefe. Good gear, thin hooking in seam at crux.
56	56Book of Fools, M5	M5	80m		0
P1 Mixed M5 80m Starts on Fridays Fool. From the base of the snow gully at the start of the third pitch head up the large obvious corner on the lefthand side. This is sustained for approximately 40m before the angle relents and 40m of easier ground leads to the ridge.
54	54Fridays Fool, WI3,M4	WI3,M4	200m		3
The classic ice route of the face. The corner/gully to the left of the Red Wall. The first pitch is often thinly iced corner. Four pitches, with bolted belays at end of first two. Conditions can vary dramatically depending on the amount of ice present, especially on the first two pitches. Generally take a single set of cams (up to Camalot #3) and wires, and 2-3 ice screws. An absolute classic. P1 Water Ice WI3 Mixed M4 200m Trad
55	55Fridays Fool Right Hand Exit, M4	M4	0m		0
P1 Mixed M4 Branches right during the third pitch and angles up onto the big ledge below the Telecom Tower, before traversing right again to finish up to the left of the Clearances (face).
50	50Party Line				0
Climb the edge of the gully up to a ledge then step out rightwards onto the face and and move right to a belay in the middle of the face. Then three variations exist going at 16, 19, and 22 with a mix of bolts and trad gear. The first pitch has been climbed in winter at M6.
46	46Under Pressure, M8	M8	0m		3
A striking thin crack splitting a steep wall above a roof, this is a classic drytooling pitch. Originally climbed by traversing from the left above a block, the block has since fallen away. A new start has been climbed utilising a thin seam to traverse from the left, with 1 bolt to protect, at same grade as original. Once in the crack, can protect well with small wires and micro-cams, P1 Mixed M8 Trad
48	48Under Pressure extended, M8	M8	232m		0
The line has subsequently been extended by six additional pitches to now top out on the summit of the Telecom Tower. P1 Mixed M8 25m Pitch 1, M8, 25m. P2 Mixed M6 12m M6+, 12m. Short pitch up and right followng bolts to DBA. P3 Mixed M5 40m Pitch 3, M5, 40m. Up cracks to left of anchor, then corner to left of roof. P4 Mixed M5 50m Pitch 4, M5, 50m. Up crest P5 Mixed M5 35m Pitch 5, M5+, 35m. Up crest. P6 Mixed M4 20m Pitch 6, M4, 20m P7 Mixed M6 50m Pitch 7, M6, 50m From crest of ridge, traverse left on ledge and climb offwidth to left of tower.
	Under Pressure Direct, M10	M10	0m	1	0
Direct start to Under Pressure, over the roof. P1 Mixed M10 1 Trad
	No Pressure, M7	M7	17m	4	2.01
On wall, left of double happy, crossing chossy roof/corner. 4 bolts, med wire red c3 and #0.75 c4 or equivalent P1 Mixed M7 17m 4 Trad From large flake, step up wall to right, climbing awesome series of thin seams into corner. Step left to cross roof with long, precise moves. On slab, step left to belay.
51	51Double Happy, 22	22	70m	5	3
Follow line of bolts to the left of Tom Thumb and set a belay under the roof. Out through the roof and up to clip the last three bolts of Party Line’s 3rd variation. P1 22 70m 5 Trad
52	52Tom Thumb, 20,M7	20,M7	0m	9	2.01
P1 20 Mixed M7 9 2 pitches. The line finishes at the top of Red Wall and requires a 60m rappel to the ground. The crux is on the lower pitch and is followed by a nice M4 corner crack to some run out slab climbing, before veering left at the top of the crack to finish at Red Wall rappel station. The first pitch was established as a rock route on gorgeous stone and should not be attacked and destroyed with ice tools.
53	53Romper Stomper, 15	15	30m		0
P1 15 30m Trad To right of Red Wall. Climb to comfy ledge beside left arete.
47	47Burn, Baby, Burn, 16	16	70m		0
P1 16 70m Starts out up the arête from the top of Romper Stomper.
62	62Fastest Indian/Indian Summer, 18,M5	18,M5	200m		0
The classic 'V" groove to right of Red Wall. The first two pitches were initially climbed in winter at M5+. (Fastest Indian) The route was finished to the top of the Telecom Tower in summer. (Indian Summer) Classic climbing either way. P1 18 Mixed M5 200m
63	63Indian Summer Variant, 22	22	0m		0
P1 22 A steep hand crack variation to the original line. Unclimbed in winter.
58	58Project, 24,M8	24,M8	0m		0
P1 24 Mixed M8 Left side of the face up 5m no gear then reach a good thin seam direct to top of buttress will be hard and scary at the start probably at 23-24 or M8.

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Attribution

Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

UUID

236c57bf-7036-43af-957d-960c46baa456