Red Wall

(18 routes)

Directly below Telecom Tower, the Red Wall is a striking, steep, red coloured wall. Fridays Fool is classic ice line to left of Red Wall.

Type: 
Wall
Access: 

Along Queens Drive.

Lat/Lon: 
-45.062427250000, 168.802013400000
NZMS260: 
F41 795 633
Topo50: 
CC11 695 015
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Half Century Celebration M6 60m
0
‘fairly run out’ direct start to the left of Fridays Fool, limited gear, thin ice made some sections possible, 'a couple of spots with a minimum 10m run out between gear.’
Allan Uren, Daniel Joll, August 2013
57 Covfefe M4, M5 55m
2.01
wire representing trad
A corner leading into a large flake system just left of Book of Fools exiting Fridays Fool gully.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M430mYes
 

Starts 10m left of book of Fools in snow gully section 2 pitches up Fridays Fool. Right facing corner 2 cracks left of book of fools corner.

2M525mYes
 

Up a thin pick seam to roof/corner/flake feature. Absolute stonker of a pitch.

S Fortune, P Harris, Aug 2017
57b Only Fools and Horses M5 40m
0
wire representing trad
The crackline immediately left of Book of Fools, coming out of snow basin above ice pitches of Friday's Fool. Can rap from above this pitch back to Fridays Fool Gully and do all 3 routes (Book of Fools, Only Fools and Horses, and Covfefe)
Lionel Clay, Steven Fortune June 2018
56 Book of Fools M5 80m
0
Starts on Fridays Fool. From the base of the snow gully at the start of the third pitch head up the large obvious corner on the lefthand side. This is sustained for approximately 40m before the angle relents and 40m of easier ground leads to the ridge.
Steven Fortune, Daniel Joll, 2012
54 Fridays Fool WI3 M4 200m
3
wire representing trad
The classic ice route of the face. The corner/gully to the left of the Red Wall. The first pitch is often thinly iced corner. Four pitches, with bolted belay at end of 1st 2. Conditions can vary dramatically depending on the amount of ice present, especially on the first two pitches. Generally take a single set of Cams (up to Camalot #3) & wires, and 2-3 ice screws. An absolute classic.
Steve Carr, Mark McCaughan, 1998
55 Fridays Fool Right Hand Exit M4
0
Branches right during the third pitch and angles up onto the big ledge below the Telecom Tower, before traversing right again to finish up to the left of the Clearances (face).
Andy Macfarlane, Des Smith, 2000
50 Party Line
0
Climb the edge of the gulley up to a ledge then step out rightwards onto the face and and move right to a belay in the middle of the face. Then three variations exist going at 16, 19, and 22 with a mix of bolts and traditional gear. The first pitch has been climbed in Winter at M6.
Variation 1 (16): Dave Brash; Variation 2 (19): Steve Carr; Variation 3 (22): Andy Macfarlane.
46 Under Pressure M8
3
wire representing trad 1
A striking thin crack splitting a steep wall above a roof, this is a classic drytooling pitch. Originally climbed by traversing from the left above a block, the block has since fallen away. A new start has been climbed utilising a thin seam to traverse from the left, with 1 bolt to protect, at same grade as original. Once in the crack, can protect well with small wires and micro-cams,
Original ascent: Daniel Joll, Jamie Vinton-Boot, 2011
48 Under Pressure extended M8, M6, M5, M5, M5, M4, M6 232m
0
1
The line has subsequently been extended by six additional pitches to now top out on the summit of the Telecom Tower.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M825mNo
 

Pitch 1, M8, 25m.

2M612mNo
 

M6+, 12m. Short pitch up and right followng bolts to DBA.

3M540mNo
 

Pitch 3, M5, 40m. Up cracks to left of anchor, then corner to left of roof.

4M550mNo
 

Pitch 4, M5,
50m. Up crest

5M535mNo
 

Pitch 5, M5+, 35m. Up crest.

6M420mNo
 

Pitch 6, M4, 20m

7M650mNo
 

Pitch 7, M6, 50m From crest of ridge, traverse left on ledge and climb offwidth to left of tower.

Alex Corpas, Steven Fortune, Daniel Joll, 2012
49 Project
0
The first ascent of the extended line (of Under Pressure extended) made use of some existing bolt runners and belays. However, there is still the potential to straighten out the line climbing on natural gear via variant 2nd, 3rd, and 4th pitches. At top of the first pitch head right via an incredibly thin seam, will likely require R.U.R.Ps, micro wires and small knifeblades. Then continue up towards the larger crack and roof, following this to the top of the Red Wall. Avoid clipping the bolts or using the bolted anchor. From here continue upwards aiming for the overhanging hand crack. After this one long steep pitch should lead to the top of the Telecom towers. The second pitch of this climb is likely to be one of the hardest natural mixed lines in the area and looks to be at around M9. At the top of the first pitch it is also possible to head up any of the Party Line variants, which will most likely range from M5-M7.
51 Double Happy 22 70m
3
5bolts wire representing trad
Follow line of bolts to the left of Tom Thumb and set a belay under the roof. Out through the roof and up to clip the last three bolts of Party Lines 3rd variation.
Steve Carr, Simon Kennedy, 2000
52 Tom Thumb 20 M7
2.01
9bolts
2 pitches. The line finishes at the top of Red Wall and requires a 60m rappel to the ground. The crux is on the lower pitch and is followed by a nice M4 corner crack to some run out slab climbing, before veering left at the top of the crack to finish at Red Wall rappel station. The first pitch was established as a rock route on gorgeous stone and should not be attacked and destroyed with ice tools.
FFA: Steve Carr, Dave Brash, Andy MacFarlane, 2000.
53 Romper Stomper 15 30m
0
To right of Red Wall. Climb to comfy ledge beside left arete.
Dave Brash, Steve Carr 2000.
47 Burn, Baby, Burn 16 70m
0
Starts out up the arête from the top of Romper Stomper.
Steve Carr, Andy MacFarlane, 2000
62 Fastest Indian/Indian Summer 18 M5 200m
0
1
The classic 'V" groove to right of Red Wall. The first two pitches were initially climbed in winter at M5+. (Fastest Indian) The route was finished to the top of the Telecom Tower in summer. (Indian Summer) Classic climbing either way.
FWA, 1.5 pitches (Fastest Indian) Kester Brown, Jono Clark 2006
63 Indian Summer Variant 22
0
A steep hand crack variation to the original line. Unclimbed in winter.
Reece Doyle
proj M4
0
1
58 Project 24 M8
0
Left side of the face up 5m no gear then reach a good thin seam direct to top of buttress will be hard and scary at the start probably at 23-24 or M8.
Attribution: 
Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.
UUID: 
236c57bf-7036-43af-957d-960c46baa456