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Clearances

Type
Part of

Backside of Telecom Tower, wall to right of Red Wall

Image
Lat/lon
-45.06242725,168.8020134, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
CC11 695 015
Approach

Queens Drive.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
64 64A.D.D., 15 15 200m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 200m

5 pitches. Start up the clear crack system approximately 50m
right of the FI. The first pitch follows
the crack until an obvious ledge. P2
steps left and goes up a right facing
corner onto a section of slab to a
belay at the base of a turf filled left
facing corner. Climb to the FI ledge.
Cross right over the Clearances gully
to the base of the clean looking buttress.
Head up a crack system on the
LH side, this can be climbed as two
shorter pitches or one long pitch. For
the final 7m head direct up the slab
rather than the easy gully to your
left.


65 65S.A.D (A.D.D. Winter Variation) 0m
0

  • P1

Up pitch 1 of ADD (slabby, thin M5+). Continue directly up this crack system, following a wide crack onto a ramp into Clearances gully on pitch 3. Move up and left, exiting via spectacular final pitch of Indian Summer. (M6+)


66 66The Clearances, M4 M4 0m
3

  • P1
  • Mixed M4

Follows the first obvious narrow gully right of the Fastest Indian/
Indian Summer. Climb featured mixed ground, which can
be iced depending on conditions, until the angle relents
and transitions into a snow gully leading until the prominent
ledge below the Telecom Tower. From here move rightwards beneath the overhang and directly up the rock wall above (crux) into solid ice flow to ridge. Route doesn't go rightwards to ridge as shown in guide photo.


67 67The Clearances Direct, M5 M5 0m
0

  • P1
  • Mixed M5

A direct finish to the original route which climbs two pitches
up the upper gully from the big ledge direct through
the overhangs.


67a 67aRoyal Blood, M6 M6 0m
2.01

  • P1
  • Mixed M6

Starts in the steep corner with two small overhangs just up the snow gully right of The Clearances. Follows a series of steep corners, broken up by snow ledges and ramps for three pitches. The fourth pitch climbs the wall just to the right of the final pitch of The Clearances, joining that route just below the final ice section.


Images

Comments
Attribution
Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.
UUID
 
84bba407-ea9a-4a2e-aef6-ffc1db26f2f1