Afterglow Buttress

Chockstone Goulette, on RHS of Afterglow buttress.

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

Link to edit content

Sgian Dubh

90m

The gully/chimney immediately left of the afterglow buttress with 3 stepped roofs. Good chimneying, ice and turf, classic mixed climbing. 2 pitches up chimney. 3rd pitch: 'angled back left up cracks on a steep headwall, heading behind a larger fin of rock, which appeared from below like a V groove, but gave more pleasant chimneying. The crux was below this up a hand crack, so good gear and good hand jams.

FA Steve Fortune, Peter Harris, Ari Kingan, 2013.

Cider Man

20 M5,20 M6

40m

A popular, well protected rock or drytooling route

#	Ewbank	Mixed	Length	Trad
1	20	M5	25m	Yes
	Cracks up arete left of slabs. Belay on ledge, can step right to Afterglow anchors to abseil.
2	20	M6	15m	Yes
	step left, up cracks and finish at Afterglow anchors. FWA Sooji Clarkson, (Ranfurly Gurl)

Julian White 2010.

Afterglow

45m

Start up a left facing corner. Can be climbed with or without the bolts as there is plenty of good traditional gear. The first ascensionists have asked for the bolts to remain, however if you want one of the best grade 17 traditional routes in the country climb the route as a single 45m pitch on gear. Take twin ropes, a selection of small wires, small Camalots and doubles of regular Camalots to #4.

Dave Bolger, Reece Doyle 2010.

Ground Rush

18 , 15

The first pitch of this is quite run out and could use a brush. The name relates to how the ground would rise up to great you if you fell off, due to the lack of protection

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	18	0m	No
	Start up right hand arête before tending slightly left as you get higher on the face. Very run out in the lower three quarters and could use a clean. If you don’t feel comfortable at the grade, this is a good one to avoid.
2	15	0m	No
	There is a rap station at the top to take you back to the anchors of Afterglow.

Daniel Joll, Cris Vanyo 2011.

Project

Thin seam and crack just around the arête of Ground Rush.

Chockstone Goulette

M4, M3, M4

100m

LH Chimney past chockstone, up tight gully tending left to the top of Afterglow buttress

#	Ewbank	Mixed	Length	Trad
1		M4	40m	Yes
	LH Chimney past chockstone, up tight gully tending left to the top of Afterglow buttress
2		M3	30m	Yes
	head straight up short pitch.
3		M4	30m	Yes
	Move uptowards the ridge on the left hand side of the arete

Danny Murphy, Alex Corpas 2011.

Cold Fear

M5, M4, M4

90m

Crank up the short overhanging hand crack. belay in an alcove

#	Ewbank	Mixed	Length	Trad
1		M5	30m	No
	Crank up the short overhanging hand crack. belay in an alcove
2		M4	30m	No
	Bridge up a corner and eventually belay on the right of the arete
3		M4	30m	No
	follow a vauge crack just right of the left arete to the top of the buttress. Just enough gear to keep you moving. For an easy exit escape right into the gully.

FWA Daniel Joll Jaz Morris

Cold Fear

90m

Follow the steep crack (right most crack in the clear recess just after the afterglow buttress.) Good protection and a couple of hard moves lead up to a belay stance. Second pitch M4ish final pitch M4-5 the route gets its name after Jaz took a small fall on the final pitch landing back onto the ledge (which was covered in deep snow) so no damage done. After the fall he sent the pitch. The pic is of Jaz on the final pitch.

Daniel Joll

Easy Pickings

30m

This route is located off the afterglow buttress on the left hand side of the bolt buttress

Daniel Joll, Cris Vanyo 2011.

Attribution:

Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

UUID:

20055ee8-4db9-4872-9db4-65b8c7b3b3d3

(9 routes)