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Afterglow Buttress

Type

Part of

Access from Queens Drive

Lat/lon

POINT (168.8020134 -45.06242725)

Topo50

CC11 695 015

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality	Operations
1	1Sgian Dubh, M4	M4	90m		0
P1 Mixed M4 90m The gully/chimney immediately left of the afterglow buttress with 3 stepped roofs. Good chimneying, ice and turf, classic mixed climbing. 2 pitches up chimney. 3rd pitch: 'angled back left up cracks on a steep headwall, heading behind a larger fin of rock, which appeared from below like a V groove, but gave more pleasant chimneying. The crux was below this up a hand crack, so good gear and good hand jams.
2	2Cider Man, 20,M5	20,M5	40m		3
A popular, well protected rock or drytooling route P1 20 Mixed M5 25m Trad Cracks up arete left of slabs. Belay on ledge, can step right to Afterglow anchors to abseil. P2 20 Mixed M6 15m Trad step left, up cracks and finish at Afterglow anchors. FWA Sooji Clarkson, (Ranfurly Gurl)
3	3Afterglow, 17	17	45m		0
P1 17 45m Start up a left facing corner. Can be climbed with or without the bolts as there is plenty of good traditional gear. The first ascensionists have asked for the bolts to remain, however if you want one of the best grade 17 traditional routes in the country climb the route as a single 45m pitch on gear. Take twin ropes, a selection of small wires, small Camalots and doubles of regular Camalots to #4.
4	4Ground Rush, 18	18			0
The first pitch of this is quite run out and could use a brush. The name relates to how the ground would rise up to great you if you fell off, due to the lack of protection P1 18 Start up right hand arête before tending slightly left as you get higher on the face. Very run out in the lower three quarters and could use a clean. If you don’t feel comfortable at the grade, this is a good one to avoid. P2 15 There is a rap station at the top to take you back to the anchors of Afterglow.
5	5Project				0
P1 Thin seam and crack just around the arête of Ground Rush.
6	6Chockstone Goulette, M4	M4	100m		0
P1 Mixed M4 40m Trad LH Chimney past chockstone, up tight gully tending left to the top of Afterglow buttress P2 Mixed M3 30m Trad head straight up short pitch. P3 Mixed M4 30m Trad Move uptowards the ridge on the left hand side of the arete
7	7Cold Fear, M5	M5	90m		1.02
P1 Mixed M5 30m Crank up the short overhanging hand crack. belay in an alcove P2 Mixed M4 30m Bridge up a corner and eventually belay on the right of the arete P3 Mixed M4 30m follow a vauge crack just right of the left arete to the top of the buttress. Just enough gear to keep you moving. For an easy exit escape right into the gully.
	Cold Fear, M5	M5	90m		2.01
Follow the steep crack (right most crack in the clear recess just after the afterglow buttress.) Good protection and a couple of hard moves lead up to a belay stance. Second pitch M4ish final pitch M4-5 the route gets its name after Jaz took a small fall on the final pitch landing back onto the ledge (which was covered in deep snow) so no damage done. After the fall he sent the pitch. The pic is of Jaz on the final pitch. P1 Mixed M5 90m Right hand Chimney system in between the Afterglow Buttress and Bolt Buttress. Follow the right of the two cracks, Steep moves 20-20m P1, then M4 up to ledge. Final pitch M4-5.
8	8Easy Pickings, 14	14	30m		0
This route is located off the afterglow buttress on the left hand side of the bolt buttress P1 14 30m 30m. Up right- facing corner system to Double Bolt Belay.

Images

Comments

Attribution

Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

UUID

20055ee8-4db9-4872-9db4-65b8c7b3b3d3