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Afterglow Buttress

Type
Face
Part of
Telecom Tower

Access from Queens Drive

Lat/lon
-45.06242725,168.8020134, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
CC11 695 015
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Sgian Dubh, M4 M4 90m
0

The gully/chimney immediately left of the Afterglow buttress with three stepped roofs. Good chimneying, ice and turf, classic mixed climbing.
Two pitches up chimney.
Third pitch: 'angled back left up cracks on a steep headwall, heading behind a larger fin of rock, which appeared from below like a V groove, but gave more pleasant chimneying. The crux was below this up a hand crack, so good gear and good hand jams.

  • P1
  • Mixed M4
  • 90m
2 2Cider Man, 20,M5 20,M5 40m
3

A popular, well-protected rock or dry tooling route.

  • P1
  • 20
  • Mixed M5
  • 25m
  • Trad

Cracks up arête left of slabs. Belay on ledge, can step right to Afterglow anchors to abseil.

  • P2
  • 20
  • Mixed M6
  • 15m
  • Trad

Step left, up cracks and finish at Afterglow anchors.

3 3Afterglow, 17 17 45m
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 45m

Start up a left facing corner. Can be climbed with or without the bolts as there is plenty of good traditional gear. The first ascensionists have asked for the bolts to remain, however if you want one of the best grade 17 traditional routes in the country climb the route as a single 45m pitch on gear. Take twin ropes, a selection of small wires, small Camalots and doubles of regular Camalots to #4.
4 4Ground Rush, 18 18 0m
0

The first pitch of this is quite run out and could use a brush. The name
relates to how the ground would rise up to great you if you fell off, due to
the lack of protection

  • P1
  • 18

Start up right hand arête before tending slightly left as you get higher on the face. Very run out in the lower three quarters and could use a clean. If you don’t feel comfortable at the grade, this is a good one to avoid.

  • P2
  • 15

There is a rap station at the top to take you back to the anchors of Afterglow.
5 5Project 0m
0
  • P1

Thin seam and crack just around the arête of Ground Rush.
6 6Chockstone Goulette, M4 M4 100m
0
  • P1
  • Mixed M4
  • 40m
  • Trad

Left-hand chimney past chockstone, up tight gully tending left to the top of Afterglow buttress.

  • P2
  • Mixed M3
  • 30m
  • Trad

Head straight up. A short pitch.

  • P3
  • Mixed M4
  • 30m
  • Trad

Move up towards the ridge on the left-hand side of the arête.

 Cold Fear, M5 M5 90m
2.01

Follow the steep crack (right most crack in the clear recess just after the afterglow buttress.) Good protection and a couple of hard moves lead up to a belay stance. Second pitch M4ish final pitch M4-5.
The route gets its name after Jaz took a small fall on the final pitch landing back onto the ledge (which was covered in deep snow) so no damage done. After the fall he sent the pitch. The pic is of Jaz on the final pitch.

  • P1
  • Mixed M5
  • 90m

Right hand Chimney system in between the Afterglow Buttress and Bolt Buttress. Follow the right of the two cracks, Steep moves 20-20m P1, then M4 up to ledge. Final pitch M4-5.

8 8Easy Pickings, 14 14 30m
0

This route is located off the afterglow buttress on the left hand side of the
bolt buttress

  • P1
  • 14
  • 30m

30m. Up right- facing corner system to Double Bolt Belay.

Images

Comments
Attribution
Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.
UUID
 
20055ee8-4db9-4872-9db4-65b8c7b3b3d3