Afterglow Buttress

(9 routes)

Access from Queens Drive

Type: 
Crag
Lat/Lon: 
-45.062427250000, 168.802013400000
NZMS260: 
F41 795 633
Topo50: 
CC11 695 015
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Sgian Dubh M4 90m
0
2
The gully/chimney immediately left of the afterglow buttress with 3 stepped roofs. Good chimneying, ice and turf, classic mixed climbing. 2 pitches up chimney. 3rd pitch: 'angled back left up cracks on a steep headwall, heading behind a larger fin of rock, which appeared from below like a V groove, but gave more pleasant chimneying. The crux was below this up a hand crack, so good gear and good hand jams.
FA Steve Fortune, Peter Harris, Ari Kingan, 2013.
2 10. LHC 20 25m
0
25m to belay ledge or continue up left hand cracks to the top and Double Bolt Belay.
Al Uren 2009.
3 Afterglow 17 45m
0
Start up a left facing corner. Can be climbed with or without the bolts as there is plenty of good traditional gear. The first ascensionists have asked for the bolts to remain, however if you want one of the best grade 17 traditional routes in the country climb the route as a single 45m pitch on gear. Take twin ropes, a selection of small wires, small Camalots and doubles of regular Camalots to #4.
Dave Bolger, Reece Doyle 2010.
4 Ground Rush 18 , 15
0
The first pitch of this is quite run out and could use a brush. The name relates to how the ground would rise up to great you if you fell off, due to the lack of protection
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1180mNo
 Start up right hand arête before tending slightly left as you get higher on the face. Very run out in the lower three quarters and could use a clean. If you don’t feel comfortable at the grade, this is a good one to avoid.
2150mNo
 There is a rap station at the top to take you back to the anchors of Afterglow.
Daniel Joll, Cris Vanyo 2011.
5 Project
0
Thin seam and crack just around the arête of Ground Rush.
6 Chockstone Goulette M4, M3, M4 100m
0
wire representing trad
LH Chimney past chockstone, up tight gully tending left to the top of Afterglow buttress
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M440mYes
 LH Chimney past chockstone, up tight gully tending left to the top of Afterglow buttress
2M330mYes
 head straight up short pitch.
3M430mYes
 Move uptowards the ridge on the left hand side of the arete
Danny Murphy, Alex Corpas 2011.
7 Cold Fear M5, M4, M4 90m
1.02
Crank up the short overhanging hand crack. belay in an alcove
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M530mNo
 Crank up the short overhanging hand crack. belay in an alcove
2M430mNo
 Bridge up a corner and eventually belay on the right of the arete
3M430mNo
 follow a vauge crack just right of the left arete to the top of the buttress. Just enough gear to keep you moving. For an easy exit escape right into the gully.
FWA Daniel Joll Jaz Morris
Cold Fear M5 90m
2.01
Follow the steep crack (right most crack in the clear recess just after the afterglow buttress.) Good protection and a couple of hard moves lead up to a belay stance. Second pitch M4ish final pitch M4-5 the route gets its name after Jaz took a small fall on the final pitch landing back onto the ledge (which was covered in deep snow) so no damage done. After the fall he sent the pitch. The pic is of Jaz on the final pitch.
Daniel Joll
8 Easy Pickings 14 30m
0
This route is located off the afterglow buttress on the left hand side of the bolt buttress
Daniel Joll, Cris Vanyo 2011.
Attribution: 
Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.