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Afterglow Buttress

(9 routes)

Place info

Afterglow Buttress

(9 routes)

Access from Queens Drive

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Type: 
Crag

Access from Queens Drive

NZMS260: 
F41 795 633
Topo50: 
CC11 695 015
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
1
M4
0
90m
One or more images in route detail.
  The gully/chimney immediately left of the afterglow buttress with 3 stepped roofs. Good chimneying, ice and turf, classic mixed climbing. 2 pitches up chimney. 3rd pitch: 'angled back left up cracks on a steep headwall, heading behind a larger fin of rock, which appeared from below like a V groove, but gave more pleasant chimneying. The crux was below this up a hand crack, so good gear and good hand jams.

FA Steve Fortune, Peter Harris, Ari Kingan, 2013.
2
20
0
25m
  25m to belay ledge or continue up left hand cracks to the top and Double Bolt Belay.

Al Uren 2009.
3
17
0
45m
  Start up a left facing corner. Can be climbed with or without the bolts as there is plenty of good traditional gear. The first ascensionists have asked for the bolts to remain, however if you want one of the best grade 17 traditional routes in the country climb the route as a single 45m pitch on gear. Take twin ropes, a selection of small wires, small Camalots and doubles of regular Camalots to #4.

Dave Bolger, Reece Doyle 2010.
4
18 , 15
0
 

The first pitch of this is quite run out and could use a brush. The name relates to how the ground would rise up to great you if you fell off, due to the lack of protection

  1. Start up right hand arête before tending slightly left as you get higher on the face. Very run out in the lower three quarters and could use a clean. If you don’t feel comfortable at the grade, this is a good one to avoid.
  2. There is a rap station at the top to take you back to the anchors of Afterglow.

Daniel Joll, Cris Vanyo 2011.
5
0
  Thin seam and crack just around the arête of Ground Rush.
6
M4, M3, M4
0
100m
Natural gear required
 
  1. LH Chimney past chockstone, up tight gully tending left to the top of Afterglow buttress
  2. head straight up short pitch.
  3. Move uptowards the ridge on the left hand side of the arete

Danny Murphy, Alex Corpas 2011.
7
M5, M4, M4
1.02
90m
One or more images in route detail.
 
  1. Crank up the short overhanging hand crack. belay in an alcove
  2. Bridge up a corner and eventually belay on the right of the arete
  3. follow a vauge crack just right of the left arete to the top of the buttress. Just enough gear to keep you moving. For an easy exit escape right into the gully.

FWA Daniel Joll Jaz Morris
M5
2.01
90m
One or more images in route detail.
 

Follow the steep crack (right most crack in the clear recess just after the afterglow buttress.) Good protection and a couple of hard moves lead up to a belay stance. Second pitch M4ish final pitch M4-5 the route gets its name after Jaz took a small fall on the final pitch landing back onto the ledge (which was covered in deep snow) so no damage done. After the fall he sent the pitch. The pic is of Jaz on the final pitch.

Right hand Chimney system in between the Afterglow Buttress and Bolt Buttress. Follow the right of the two cracks, Steep moves 20-20m P1, then M4 up to ledge. Final pitch M4-5.

Daniel JollJaz Morris
8
14
0
30m
 

This route is located off the afterglow buttress on the left hand side of the bolt buttress

30m. Up right- facing corner system to Double Bolt Belay.

Daniel Joll, Cris Vanyo 2011.
Attribution: 
Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.
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