South Face

(21 routes)

These slabs do not hold too many exciting options for winter climbing usually due to their lack of ice,
however being very compact the rock is excellent for climbing on a hot summers day. There are plenty of potential projects and unexplored terrain here.
On the ridge leading up to the summit of Single Cone you will find a small walled bivy. From the bivy follow a small ledge for 5m that overlooks the face. Here you will find the top of a bolted rappel line. This takes you to down to a point approximately 30m from the base of the face – directly above an obvious snow patch. Be careful on the second to last rap as its approx 61m. At some point, this will get fixed up but for now knot your ropes and be careful. The following two routes start here:
The lower tier of the ice flow is equipped with a number of double bolt anchors that can be used for top roping and to enable an abseil descent to be made with one 60m rope.

Face (Alpine)

Access to the face is gained by hiking up to Wye Saddle, above Lake Alta, and then crossing the plateau below the east face of Single Cone to a low point at the base of the ridge running above the South Face. From here an obvious large gully provides easy access down to the base of the
The face itself is trapezoidal in shape and varies in height from 150m at its eastern end, rising to nearly 300m below the summit of Single Cone. All of the climbs that top out on face have an easy walk off back across to Wye Saddle.
Note that in general the existing routes which have only been assigned a numeric rock climbing grade are yet to receive a winter ascent.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
97 $100 Whore M5
9 pitches. Start up a right facing gully system which leads into a series of short mixed corners. Follow this via steep snow/ice tending left towards ridge line. Exit via the upper headwall.
Daniel Joll, Rupert Gardiner, Kevin Barrett, 2011.
98 Alejandro El Bicho Le Gusta Sexo Duro 350m
8 pitches
Alex Corpas, Ben Dare, Daniel Joll, 2012
99 Single Cone South Face 17 M4
Start up an obvious corner; to the left of the major left hand ramp that bisects the face. Continue up directly to cross the ramp and climb through several small overhangs, crux, before tending slightly left on easier ground. The lower face was clear of snow and was climbed on typically sound rock while the upper half was plastered in snow and ice and had to be climbed as mixed. On the upper face when the gradient eases tend slightly left and top out below & left of Stairway to Methven.
Ben Dare solo, 2010.
100 Only for Muppets WI3
A short ice pitch which forms during good winters.
Dave Bolger, Rupert Gardiner, 2006.
101 Touch Down WI3 60m
An absolute classic, and a must for the area which forms consistently every year. The top of the route is equipped with a double ring bolt abseil station for the descent and/or top roping.
102 Touch Down RHS WI2
Right to left tending ice ramps that traverse into the top of the Touch Down flow.
First ascent unknown.
Eclipse WI2 M6 125m
wire representing trad
a ‘large corner up above the right-hand side’ of Touch Down on the south face of Single Cone in the Remarkables, according to Ben. After climbing the ice to the start of the corner, the second and third pitches follow the corner system before the route veers left ‘through steep mixed ground’ to reach ‘the crest’ of a rock spur, which divides Touch Down’s waterfall ice.
Danny Murphy and Ben Dare, Jun 2014
103 Project
From top of Touch Down direct to the summit ridge.
104 South Face Classic WI3 300m
A great introduction to alpine climbing on the south face, which climbs the ice of Touch Down before following left tending snow ramps to the ridge. Has seen several retreats and at least one rescue. Solo first ascent.
Steve Carr, Derek Chinn, 2001.
105 Littlewood Route 18
5 Pitches. Follows a line climbers left of the rap line.
Steve Barratt, Jade Littlewood, 2011.
Barrett’s Route 18
wire representing trad 2
5 pitches on the right-hand slabs. takes a line to the left of the abseil line used to get to the bottom of the face.
Steve Barrett, 2012
106 Got No Shoes 17
wire representing trad
5 pitches. Slightly further to the right of the abseil line.
Daniel Joll, Danny Murphy, 2011.
107 Finnigan Dare 18 250m
7 pitches. Start out up an easy corner to the right of the winter ice lines before traversing left along a wide ledge. Climb the wall above the ledge via an obvious slightly overhanging crack, crux, before continuing up predominantly slabby, but easier, ground above. Tend slightly right at the base of the final headwall to reach the top of the face.
Ben Dare, Andrew Finnigan, 2011.
108 Project
Rap, or walk, in to the base of the two rock routes above and start up wide corner system heading to the ridge. This could potentially form up in winter as well, although it will involve some long run out slab sections.
109 Project
Ascend the obvious right slanting chimney before continuing for approximately four pitches to the top of the face. It is unknown whether the line has been extended for the full height of the face.
110 Uncle Al’s Retro Rack 17
wire representing trad
4 pitches. Pitch 1, start up right of the chimney and climb nice cracks until the slab steepens and gear runs out. Step right and continue up, more gear appears after 10- 15m, to a double bolt belay. The origin of which is unknown however it appears to be for top-roping on the nice slab right of this route. Follow ledge system right then straight up three more easy pitches to the ridge line. This four-pitch route begins on some nice cracks before climbing a slab to an existing double bolt belay, then moves right up a ledge system then to the ridge
Daniel Joll, Paul Angus, 2012.
111 Blame the Rabbit 18
wire representing trad
Start up the flake of Big Bouncing Boulders, before continuing up and slightly left on steep ground where the original line tends right. Climb featured slabs right and through two steep steps before straightening and angling up to the ridge.
Ben Dare solo, 2012.
112 Big Bouncing Boulders 17
wire representing trad
Start up the flake of Big Bouncing Boulders, before continuing up and slightly left on steep ground where the original line tends right. Climb featured slabs right and through two steep steps before straightening and angling up to the ridge.
Danny Murphy, Ben Dare, 2012.
113 Easy Shanking 18 170m
On the far right of the slabs; exiting near the access gully. The route tends right for three pitches then straightens up for the final 20m.
Dave Bolger, Rupert Gardiner.
Takes the left side of the pinnacle on the face, starting up a gully right of Stairway to Methven, and a small left facing corner left of Sunset on Single, then steep blocky terrain to top of pinnacle.
Steve Fortune, Ari Kingan and Pete Harris, Oct 2013
97a $50 F#ck M5
Fun, engaging climbing. Much like the other routes around here, the meat is in the first two pitches and the potatoes take you to the top. Climbs the left side of the buttress that juts out before the ridge that separates the south and west face. Alejandro etc. etc. climbs the right side of this buttress. P1 Blocky bits lead to the base of an obvious corner. P2 Stem and hook your way through the corner (crux) topping our on a sweeping right tending snow ramp. P3 - P7 Continue up, keeping left to gain a subtle ridge passing several steps of M4 between moderate ground. Simul-climbing will speed things up. Keeps it coming until the top!
Steve Skelton, Vaughan Snowden Sept 2013
Material extracted from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012 (except for Barrett's Route). Edited and posted with permission.