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South Face

Type
Part of

These slabs do not hold too many exciting options for winter climbing usually due to their lack of ice,
however being very compact the rock is excellent for climbing on a hot summers day. There are plenty of potential projects and unexplored terrain here.
On the ridge leading up to the summit of Single Cone you will find a small walled bivy. From the bivy follow a small ledge for 5m that overlooks the face. Here you will find the top of a bolted rappel line. This takes you to down to a point approximately 30m from the base of the face – directly above an obvious snow patch. Be careful on the second to last rap as its approx 61m. At some point, this will get fixed up but for now knot your ropes and be careful. The following two routes start here:
The lower tier of the ice flow is equipped with a number of double bolt anchors that can be used for top roping and to enable an abseil descent to be made with one 60m rope.

Image
Aspect
South
Access

Access to the face is gained by hiking up to Wye Saddle, above Lake Alta, and then crossing the plateau below the east face of Single Cone to a low point at the base of the ridge running above the South Face. From here an obvious large gully provides easy access down to the base of the
face.
The face itself is trapezoidal in shape and varies in height from 150m at its eastern end, rising to nearly 300m below the summit of Single Cone. All of the climbs that top out on face have an easy walk off back across to Wye Saddle.
Note that in general the existing routes which have only been assigned a numeric rock climbing grade are yet to receive a winter ascent.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
97 Hundred Dollar Whore M5
0
98 Alejandro El Bicho Le Gusta Sexo Duro 350m
0
99 Single Cone South Face 17,M4
0
100 Only for Muppets WI3
0
101 Touch Down WI3 60m
0
102 Touch Down RHS WI2
0
Eclipse WI2,M6 125m
0
103 Project
0
Mixed ambition WI3,M5
0
104 South Face Classic WI3 300m
0
105 Littlewood Route 18
0
Barretts Route 18
0
106 Got No Shoes 17
0
107 Finnigan Dare 18 250m
0
108 Project
0
109 Project
0
110 Uncle Al’s Retro Rack 17
0
111 Blame the Rabbit 18
0
112 Big Bouncing Boulders 17
0
113 Easy Shanking 18 170m
0
4VLOLZ
0
97a Fifty Dollar F#ck M5
2.01

Images

Comments
Attribution
Material extracted from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012 (except for Barrett's Route). Edited and posted with permission.
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