These slabs do not hold too many exciting options for winter climbing usually due to their lack of ice,
however being very compact the rock is excellent for climbing on a hot summers day. There are plenty of potential projects and unexplored terrain here.
On the ridge leading up to the summit of Single Cone you will find a small walled bivy. From the bivy follow a small ledge for 5m that overlooks the face. Here you will find the top of a bolted rappel line. This takes you to down to a point approximately 30m from the base of the face – directly above an obvious snow patch. Be careful on the second to last rap as its approx 61m. At some point, this will get fixed up but for now knot your ropes and be careful. The following two routes start here:
The lower tier of the ice flow is equipped with a number of double bolt anchors that can be used for top roping and to enable an abseil descent to be made with one 60m rope.
Access to the face is gained by hiking up to Wye Saddle, above Lake Alta, and then crossing the plateau below the east face of Single Cone to a low point at the base of the ridge running above the South Face. From here an obvious large gully provides easy access down to the base of the
face.
The face itself is trapezoidal in shape and varies in height from 150m at its eastern end, rising to nearly 300m below the summit of Single Cone. All of the climbs that top out on face have an easy walk off back across to Wye Saddle.
Note that in general the existing routes which have only been assigned a numeric rock climbing grade are yet to receive a winter ascent.
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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| 97 | $100 Whore | M5 |
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9 pitches. Start up a right facing gully system which leads
into a series of short mixed corners. Follow this via steep
snow/ice tending left towards ridge line. Exit via the upper
headwall.
Daniel Joll, Rupert Gardiner, Kevin Barrett, 2011.
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| 98 | Alejandro El Bicho Le Gusta Sexo Duro | 350m |
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8 pitches
Alex Corpas, Ben Dare, Daniel Joll, 2012
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| 99 | Single Cone South Face | 17 M4 |
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Start up an obvious corner; to the left of the major left
hand ramp that bisects the face. Continue up directly to
cross the ramp and climb through several small overhangs,
crux, before tending slightly left on easier ground.
The lower face was clear of snow and was climbed on
typically sound rock while the upper half was plastered in
snow and ice and had to be climbed as mixed. On the upper
face when the gradient eases tend slightly left and top
out below & left of Stairway to Methven.
Ben Dare solo, 2010.
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| 100 | Only for Muppets | WI3 |
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A short ice pitch which forms during good winters.
Dave Bolger, Rupert Gardiner, 2006.
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| 101 | Touch Down | WI3 | 60m |
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An absolute classic, and a must for the area which
forms consistently every year. The top of the route is
equipped with a double ring bolt abseil station for the descent
and/or top roping.
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| 102 | Touch Down RHS | WI2 |
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Right to left tending ice ramps that traverse into the top
of the Touch Down flow.
First ascent unknown.
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| Eclipse | WI2 M6 | 125m |
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a ‘large corner up above the right-hand side’ of Touch Down on the south face of Single Cone in the Remarkables, according to Ben. After climbing the ice to the start of the corner, the second and third pitches follow the corner system before the route veers left ‘through steep mixed ground’ to reach ‘the crest’ of a rock spur, which divides Touch Down’s waterfall ice.
Danny Murphy and Ben Dare, Jun 2014
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| 103 | Project |
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From top of Touch Down direct to the summit ridge.
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| 104 | South Face Classic | WI3 | 300m |
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A great introduction to alpine climbing on the south
face, which climbs the ice of Touch Down before following
left tending snow ramps to the ridge. Has seen several
retreats and at least one rescue. Solo first ascent.
Steve Carr, Derek Chinn, 2001.
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| 105 | Littlewood Route | 18 |
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5 Pitches. Follows a line climbers left of the rap line.
Steve Barratt, Jade Littlewood, 2011.
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| Barrett’s Route | 18 |
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5 pitches on the right-hand slabs.
takes a line to the left of the abseil line used to get to the bottom of the face.
Steve Barrett, 2012
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| 106 | Got No Shoes | 17 |
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5 pitches. Slightly further to the right of the abseil line.
Daniel Joll, Danny Murphy, 2011.
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| 107 | Finnigan Dare | 18 | 250m |
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7 pitches. Start out up an easy corner to the right
of the winter ice lines before traversing left along a wide
ledge. Climb the wall above the ledge via an obvious
slightly overhanging crack, crux, before continuing up predominantly
slabby, but easier, ground above. Tend slightly
right at the base of the final headwall to reach the top of
the face.
Ben Dare, Andrew Finnigan, 2011.
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| 108 | Project |
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Rap, or walk, in to the base of the
two rock routes above and start up
wide corner system heading to the
ridge. This could potentially form
up in winter as well, although it will
involve some long run out slab sections.
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| 109 | Project |
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Ascend the obvious right slanting chimney before continuing
for approximately four pitches to the top of the face.
It is unknown whether the line has been extended for the
full height of the face.
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| 110 | Uncle Al’s Retro Rack | 17 |
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4 pitches. Pitch 1, start up right of the chimney and climb
nice cracks until the slab steepens and gear runs out.
Step right and continue up, more gear appears after 10-
15m, to a double bolt belay. The origin of which is unknown
however it appears to be for top-roping on the nice
slab right of this route. Follow ledge system right then
straight up three more easy pitches to the ridge line.
This four-pitch route begins on some nice cracks before climbing a slab to an existing double bolt belay, then moves right up a ledge system then to the ridge
Daniel Joll, Paul Angus, 2012.
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| 111 | Blame the Rabbit | 18 |
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Start up the flake of Big Bouncing Boulders, before continuing
up and slightly left on steep ground where the
original line tends right. Climb featured slabs right and
through two steep steps before straightening and angling
up to the ridge.
Ben Dare solo, 2012.
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| 112 | Big Bouncing Boulders | 17 |
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Start up the flake of Big Bouncing Boulders, before continuing
up and slightly left on steep ground where the
original line tends right. Climb featured slabs right and
through two steep steps before straightening and angling
up to the ridge.
Danny Murphy, Ben Dare, 2012.
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| 113 | Easy Shanking | 18 | 170m |
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On the far right of the slabs; exiting near the access
gully. The route tends right for three pitches then
straightens up for the final 20m.
Dave Bolger, Rupert Gardiner.
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| 4VLOLZ |
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Takes the left side of the pinnacle on the face, starting up a gully right of
Stairway to Methven, and a small left facing corner left of Sunset on Single,
then steep blocky terrain to top of pinnacle.
Steve Fortune, Ari Kingan and Pete Harris, Oct 2013
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| 97a | $50 F#ck | M5 |
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Fun, engaging climbing. Much like the other routes around here, the meat is
in the first two pitches and the potatoes take you to the top. Climbs the
left side of the buttress that juts out before the ridge that separates the
south and west face. Alejandro etc. etc. climbs the right side of this
buttress.
P1 Blocky bits lead to the base of an obvious corner.
P2 Stem and hook your way through the corner (crux) topping our on a sweeping
right tending snow ramp.
P3 - P7 Continue up, keeping left to gain a subtle ridge passing several
steps of M4 between moderate ground. Simul-climbing will speed things up.
Keeps it coming until the top!
Steve Skelton, Vaughan Snowden Sept 2013
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