East Buttress Double Cone

(13 routes)

The east side routes, up and left of Lake Alta Slabs

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
The Michael Baker Memorial Route 10
0
Mike Dunn, Martin Hawes, summer of 2012/13
One More Route Before She Gets Home 14
0
Martin Hawes, Derek Chinn, summer 2012/13
My Kingdom for a Horse 13
0
wire representing trad
Martin Hawes, Derek Chinn, summer 2012/13
The Whirrlies M4,,,, 255m
0
wire representing trad
Starts up obvious short left-leaning ramp in-between Māori Alphabet and the Petit Couloir. Follow obvious corner and gully systems then traverse slightly left to avoid rock overhangs to then top out at tat rap station near top of Petit Couloir or you could top out on summit of Double Cone. In memory of Calum Hudson.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M460mYes
 

Start up short left-leaning ramp then slightly right into obvious steeper turfy corner system

245mNo
 

Up obvious gully and belay at base of short chimney

350mNo
 

Shallow mixed corner that is harder than it looks, then traverse left across slab and up steeper mixed step. Repeat slab traverse and up past the top of an ice step to a snow slope. Crux pitch.

450mNo
 

Cross snow covered slab then up shallow corner and right around block and into more shallow corner with snowfield above

550mNo
 

Continue up snowfield, trending left to finish at rap station near the the top of the Petit Couloir

Matt Wilkinson, Lincoln Quilliam, 14 August 2015
The Whirrlies Direct The Whirrlies Direct M3,M4,WI4 M5 50m
1.02
wire representing trad
A hanging ice pillar over a small overhang to the right of the Whirrlies. Was abseiled after 3 pitches, but could continue to summit on easier ground.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M350mYes
 

gain icy gully system from the left.

2M40mNo
 

up tricky slab to ledge at base of pillar

3WI4M50mNo
 

cool pillar with good crack/rock pro on RHS

Edwin Sheppard, Jonno Clarke, Steven Fortune Aug 2019
Alta Vista 17
0
100 metres left of DB Eh?.
Guillaume Charton,. Estelle Poiron, Waitangi Day 2013
IMR In Medias Res M4,M4,M5,M5 180m
3
wire representing trad 3
Takes the ramp on left side of the steep wall guarding the left side East Buttress of double cone, then breaches this steep wall by a steep chimney. On FA, climbed 4 pitches to easy snow, then abseiled (2x55m diagonal into whirlies), but can continue up easier ground to summit or petit couloir. 1 #5 camalot useful but not essential
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M460mYes
 

A turfy groove up ramp, to reach good belay at edge of large corner system.

2M440mYes
 

Up large corner to base of chimney.

3M540mYes
 

Up wild chimney and roof to ice. Intimidating, but easier than it looks!

4M540mYes
 

A short, steep corner, followed by icy chimney, finishing on easier snow slopes.

Steven Fortune, Reg Measures, Ben Mangan, Aug 2021. Climbed 4 pitches and rapped into Whirlies
FSC FS Crack 21
0
wire representing trad
Steep left angling crack left of Pull me a pilsner
Mark Woodward, Tim O'Leary 1997
Lake Alta Pull Me a Pilsner, direct start and extended finish, 5 pitches WI4 M6 120m
3
6bolts wire representing trad 2 1
The direct start is between Fat Slut Crack and the DB Eh buttress. A good alternative if you're not keen to thrash and dangle on the direct start, is the original start. It goes up the access route to the left of Altered States until level with the snow ledge at the bottom of pitch 3. There is a rock slab pitch M4? to be traversed, thin scratchy dry tooling but well protected with wires. (however by doing the original start you miss two of the best pitches on the route) Pitch 1 (20m) - a steep icy corner , M6+, all on natural pro. Pull over the lip onto a small shelf on the right, then up a few more icy meters to a bolt belay on a blocky stance. Stop here to avoid rope drag that would occur if you try to combine pitches 1 and 2, and so you can hear your climbing partner. If pitch 1 has a large hanging dagger in the middle you may need to climb up and clean off the dagger which will make the grade feel a bit harder! Pitch 2 (20m) , M4- Vertical corner and small bulge that is turned on the left, rock pro and ice screws if fat. Gain the snowy terrace and bolt belay at base of next left facing corner/crack on right wall. Pitch 3(35m), M5 WI4- Climb tricky corner/crack to gain turf and hopefully ice, good rock pro. Once the turf is reached there are bolts on the right wall, which makes it possible/sane to climb this pitch in thin, dry or warm conditions.The ice chandelier gets seriously sun baked and rotten, but utilising the bolts it has been climbed in these conditions with full sun on the ice. The first ascentionists feel it is reasonably safe, however it would be scary as hell if it did collapse. Pitch 4 (20m) M3 - Easy turf corner up the slab, trending slightly left. Can link with pitch 5 for 55m pitch, or stop at intermediate belay below chimney. Pitch 5 (20m) M5 - Chimney / corner to hanging ice, if dry/thin finish up left wall onto arete, then up and right to bolt anchor. if really fat conditions the V groove with icicle might be a better option. be careful where your rope runs over the sharp edge when rapping off this anchor. Most pitches will feel easier with more, rather than less ice. Despite there being bolts a full rock rack. Double cams from purple .5 camalot - 3 camalot, singles 00 - .4 plus one number 4. , 10 quick draws extenders are useful, and 3 short ice screws would be advisable. single set of nuts - #8 including some small ones. its mostly small and the occasional medium sized wire. Descent. Can top out to summit of Double cone on easier ground, or abseil route on bolt anchors. - You can descend the route with one 60m rope. All raps 30m or less. The pilsner pitch rap is a rope stretcher so keep knots in for that one!. All raps are on double bolt belays.
Direct start (crux) FFA Lionel Clay, Allan Uren July 2015
Stumpy Stout M7 30m
3
wire representing trad
When a Pilsner is not enough. This alternate start to Pull me a Pilsner is an excellent variation for those wanting to add a bit of difficulty to there days climbing. Alternatively climb it as a single pitch route after finishing Pull Me Pilsner. There is a double bolt belay at the end of the 12m long overhanging seam. When standing at the base of Pull Me A Pilsner look to your right and you will see the overhanging seam heading up to an arete. M7 12m From the first belay continue up the crack to a stance, then continue this crack line on the right of the arete stepping further right at the end of the crack to top out onto the ledge and second pitch belay of Pull Me A Pilsner. 18m. M4-5 Double bolt chain belay.
Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune August 2016
Māori Alphabet 17
0
Calum Hudson, Kim Logan, Rob Turner, January 1986
CS Champagne Supernova M5,M5,M5,M5,M6,M4 212m
3
3bolts wire representing trad 2
A superb natural line up left facing corners on the right side of the face, right of Pull me a Pilsner. 6 technical pitches, then easier ground to summit, or traverse to Pull me a Pilsner abseil line. Can be climbed in lean conditions, but requires turf to be frozen. Set of wires, single #4 and #3 camalot, doubles of cams up to that.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M535mYes
 

Start up slabby cracks in base of buttress between Pull me a Pilsner and Alta Ice routes, into left facing corner. Traverse left under roof and belay

2M535mYes
 

Step right over lip of overhang with cool face moves to gain next corner system. Climb turf to snow ledge and traverse left to base of prominent corner.

3M530m3Yes
 

Climb the prominent left facing corner! Shares P2 of Maori Alphabet. Step right on ledge to belay below another left facing corner.

4M542mYes
 

A superb pitch up steep corner. A great pick seam and gear. Strep right around arete when crack disappears, then back into corner.

5M625mYes
 

Offwidth up short roof, belay at base of right facing turfy corner.

6M445mYes
 

Up turfy right facing corner to snowfield.

Steven Fortune and James Hobson 11 August 2020
SDS Sup Dig Snygg M4, WI3, Turf3 350m
0
wire representing trad 3
A fun turfy and icy route up the RHS of the East Buttress of Double cone. Climbs a prominent corner above the snow shelf above Alta slabs. Then follow more moderate ground to the summit. Can start by any route on Alta Slabs, but most logical is via pillar that often forms on far LHS of alta ice leading directly into corner.
Mason Gardener, Sophie Jenkins, Steven Fortune, August 2022

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UUID: 
fa32fe28-4d21-4a79-b6be-55ac23a31349