The Great Escape

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
This entertaining little multi pitch climb snakes its way up the cliff seaching out the best climbing to the apex of the quarry. Great beginner route with good views to the Port, the occasional wedding in the garden below, and out to the Peninsula. Can be climbed at night with lights from the Port, and the route makes a good simul-climb. The first few metres of P1 can remain damp several days after rain during winter, but the rest of the route generally dries quickly. Descent - 20m then 30m rap off DBB at top, then mid-station L of the top of P2. Or, scramble up 5m through the trees, hard L through the scrub to pick up a good (exposed) trail leading around the top of the quarry above the Chakrata Wall to the viewing platform.
Reference: 
GE
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11420m8No
 

Start among the bush in the centre of the bowl. Head left to arete, tricky. Step right above the block and truncated tree to a nice slab. Up to the belay.

21413m5No
 

Up the nose between the eyebrows (surely you can see the face), then traverse left to belay.

31420m7No
 

Up the steep groove, then easy ground to finish up right side of apex of the quarry. After pulling through the drill hole, you can climb the line direct using two bolts placed by Daniel Rogers- Bromley and David Newstead.

Grade: 
14,14,14
Quality: 
1.02
Gone: 
0
Length: 
53m
Bolts: 
20
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Marcus Thomas 1996
David Rogers-Bromley, David Newstead - direct third pitch
Route Image: 
UUID: 
9d410e3b-906b-448e-bbd0-fc6ad6b72b3f