Mount Cargill | ClimbNZ

(13 routes)

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It's best to go when it has been dry for at least a few days and there is no mist on Mt Cargill. It's worth taking a second rope so that you can abseil to the base of the crag. There is a rough track to the bottom of the crag (standing at the top looking out to your right) and one through the gully between the back wall and main crag. The right-hand anchor, seen as you walk down towards the crag, is the easiest for descent. A carpet square or a towel might come in handy if conditions are damp.

Mostly fully-bolted sport routes between grade 15-20: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.313160255814.184803.2080691658...

Topo. here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.313160255814.184803.2080691658...

Some background on Mt. Cargill: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Cargill

Type:

Crag

Altitude:

676m

Aspect:

South

Walk time:

5 min.

Access:

About 15 minutes drive from the city centre, via Pine Hill Road and Cowan Road. Park by the tower and walk about 2-5 minutes down a rough track on the far side (from the road) of the building.

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon:

-45.812945000000, 170.554561000000

NZMS260:

I44 198 854

Topo50:

CE17 100 238

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Looking out towards Dunedin from Mt. Cargill

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality	Bolts
3	Callow Youth	17		0	4
	Brian Alder
4	Und Du Bist Mein Sofa	20		0

5	Can Yer Mammy Sew?	20		0

6	Luke Here Jimmy	19		0

9	Tatty Bogle	19	15m	0	3

10	Sunrise Redeemer	19	15m	0	3

11	Charlie Banali	15		0

12	Wistful with a Fistful	16	10m	0
	Nick Cradock
13	Friendly Little Finger	18		0

1	Pegasus	15	18m	2.01	6
	The left-most climb (from the bottom looking up) on the main crag. Like most of the climbs on this face, it is a slab climb requiring trusting footholds. Crux is at the third bolt. Phil Clarke 22-1-2023
2	Take No Prisoners	18	18m	2.01	6
	To the right of Pegasus. The crux is at the third bold. Can be made easier by stepping left at this point. Nice slab moves requiring balance. Allan Cox 22-1-2023
7	No Epistemic Vices	21	15m	2.01	6
	Through the overhanging scoop and up. Crux is getting off the ground and to the second bolt. Then nice slab moves follow. Can be used as a harder direct start to 'Luke Here Jimmy' Allan Cox 4-3-2023
8	unknowen?			0

UUID:

200b54b4-a650-489c-adc9-64abd9edd00e

Comments

Over the summer (2022/23)

Permalink Submitted by Allan252 on Tue, 21/03/2023 - 15:46

Over the summer (2022/23) three new climbs have been added, some climbs have been cleaned, and tracks have been re-marked with red tape.