The wall immediately left of Gump's But-tock.
For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XNn5FY4HP5zojWpJGRntFrTM4amAABBM/view?usp=sharing
Turn off the sand road about 50m before the turnoff to Gump's. The track crosses a fallen pine tree and goes straight to the wall.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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1 | 1Left Leaning Free Radicals, 22 | 22 | 20m | 9 | |||
Up the groove in the detached boulder and on to a big ledge. Cross over to the wall and follow the groove up onto the top of a pillar. Up the black wall to an undercling then rightwards up a thin ramp to some excellent holds over the bulge. Cruxy move up onto the slab finish. |
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2 | 2Full Circle, 24 | 24 | 20m | 9 | |||
Scramble up leftwards along the edge of the cliffline to the highest point of the track. Direct up the centre of the wall. Sustained climbing on perfect rock with just a few spots for a quick shake out. Powerful and delicate. |
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3 | 3What a Way to Spend Easter, 19 | 19 | 20m | 8 | |||
Up the centre of the weakness on superb rock. The crux comes at mid height moving right around the hanging pillar. |
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4 | 4Graveyard Shift, 22 | 22 | 20m | 11 | |||
First bolt shared with 'What a Way to Spend Easter', before traversing rightwards along the ledge. Up the white pillar on positive edges and reach high for a side pull on the right. Traverse left two metres to gain the incipient groove and blast straight up the wall on layaways, crimps and pockets before drifting leftwards to the WaWtSE belay. A sport climber's dream. |
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5 | 5Car Crash, 17 | 17 | 20m | 10 | |||
The bottom section of this climb is currently not in good condition - however the summer will hopefully dry it up. Car Crash takes you on a journey up and over the cemented blocks of lava flow and into the groove above. Take care with the odd loose hold in the mid section. Up the groove, move across left and prepare yourself for a cruxy finale! |
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6 | 6Rain Dance, 16 | 16 | 20m | 8 | |||
The bottom section currently isn't very pleasant however this summer will hopefully dry it up. |
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7 | 7Too Soon, 19 | 19 | 20m | 7 | |||
Same situation as the start of RD. Great crux on the vertical wall near the top. |
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8 | 8Escape from Belsen, 23,A0 | 23,A0 | 25m | 9 | |||
The hard moves are right off the ground and can be aided by pulling on the first three quickdraws. Grade 18 moves follow up onto a ledge then traverse right along and over slabs. 'All Play and No work' merges here at mid height and together share the final three bolts up and over a steep bulge.
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