Stone Wall

(8 routes)

The wall immediately left of Gump's But-tock.

For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XNn5FY4HP5zojWpJGRntFrTM4amAABBM/view?u...

Altitude: 
5m
Type: 
Wall
Walk time: 
1 min
Access: 

Turn off the sand road about 50m before the turnoff to Gump's. The track crosses a fallen pine tree and goes straight to the wall.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Left Leaning Free Radicals 22 20m
1.02
9bolts
Up the groove in the detached boulder and on to a big ledge. Cross over to the wall and follow the groove up onto the top of a pillar. Up the black wall to an undercling then rightwards up a thin ramp to some excellent holds over the bulge. Cruxy move up onto the slab finish.
Steve Carr 2016
2 Full Circle 25 20m
3
9bolts
Scramble up leftwards along the edge of the cliffline to the highest point of the track. Direct up the centre of the wall. Sustained climbing on perfect rock with just a few spots for a quick shake out. Powerful and delicate.
Steve Carr, Dave Brash 2016
3 What a Way to Spend Easter 19 20m
2.01
8bolts
Up the centre of the weakness on superb rock. The crux comes at mid height moving right around the hanging pillar.
Dave Brash 2016
4 Graveyard Shift 24 20m
2.01
11bolts
First bolt shared with 'What a Way to Spend Easter', before traversing rightwards along the ledge. Up the white pillar on positive edges and reach high for a side pull on the right. Traverse left two metres to gain the incipient groove and blast straight up the wall on layaways, crimps and pockets before drifting leftwards to the WaWtSE belay. A sport climber's dream.
Steve Carr 2016
5 Car Crash 17 20m
0
10bolts
The bottom section of this climb is currently not in good condition - however the summer will hopefully dry it up. Car Crash takes you on a journey up and over the cemented blocks of lava flow and into the groove above. Take care with the odd loose hold in the mid section. Up the groove, move across left and prepare yourself for a crux finale!
Murray Judge 2016
6 Rain Dance 16 20m
0
8bolts
The bottom section currently isn't very pleasant however this summer will hopefully dry it up.
Murray Judge
7 Too Soon 19 20m
0
7bolts
Same situation as the start of RD. Great crux on the vertical wall near the top.
Tom MacTavish
8 Escape from Belsen 23 ,18 A0 25m
0
9bolts 1
The hard moves are right off the ground and can be aided by pulling on the first three quickdraws. Grade 18 moves follow up onto a ledge then traverse right along and over slabs. 'All Play and No work' merges here at mid height and together share the final three bolts up and over a steep bulge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12325m9No
 

The hard moves are right off the ground and can be aided by pulling on the first three quickdraws. Grade 18 moves follow up onto a ledge then traverse right along and over slabs. 'All Play and No work' merges here at mid height and together share the final three bolts up and over a steep bulge.

218A00mNo
Steve Carr
Attribution: 
Steve Carr
UUID: 
494c20ee-6a6b-4a91-8756-eb17a23c4597