Main Wall LHS | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

Part of

The stretch of aretes and faces directly right of Jolly Cobbler Wall. Routes 1-6 are accessed from the track along from JC Wall. For the rest of the routes in this sector, 7-10, head into The Stronghold area and continue up and left under Eldorado Wall and out under Cornergeddon - the big corner.
For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/open?id=16CPfqc5iWZlatjAuh5JsGCJFmHVQZRq6

Approach

Via Jolly Cobbler Wall track or from road to beach.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Killing Time, 18	18	15m	6	0
P1 18 15m 6 From the apex of the track heading up beneath The Jolly Cobbler Wall, continue on down for a further 3 metres to the right. Up to the twin pockets then rightwards to the glued on flake. Power over the bulge on surprisingly good rock and pad easily up the arete to the belay rings.
2	2Reflection, 18	18	20m	7	0
P1 18 20m 7 Continually thought provoking and sustained climbing right through to the belay.
3	3Margin of Error, 17	17	20m	3	0
P1 17 20m 3 Trad Climb the pillar past two bolts and into the crack. Wires and cams to .75 until the crack closes then out onto the left wall. Clip another bolt then up to a balay hidden around the arete.
4	4Mirror Wall, 22	22	20m	8	0
P1 22 20m 8 Climb the pillar past two bolts, move rightwards across the wall then straight up steepening terrain to finish on the same lichenous slab as Teardrop Arete. It is possible to use the holds on the arete thereby dropping the grade to around 20.
5	5Teardrop Arete, 18	18	20m	6	1.02
P1 18 20m 6 Surmount the detached block where you will find a single bolt with galvanised chain link. You can belay from here (enough room on top of the block for two). At the top of the arete swing left onto the lichenous wall for an engaging finish.
6	6Evolution, 17	17	20m	8	0
P1 17 20m 8 Start from the top of the same detached pillar as for Teardrop Arete. Step rightwards across the abyss and upwards into the fist crack until surmounting the top of the detached pillar. Up and leftwards across the lichenous slab. Great quality rock.
7	7Steppin Up, 19	19	25m	4	0
P1 16 15m 4 Begin beneath Cornergeddon corner. Up past the bolt and easily along the ledge beneath the small tree. . Reach around left to a hidden bolt. Now slip along the base of this pillar and into a short fist crack. Up this onto the big ledge. P2 19 10m 4 Direct up the left arete and over two bulges.
8	8Right hand route, 19	19	25m	4	0
P1 16 15m 4 As for Steppin Up. P2 19 10m 4 Bridge the corner and tackle the right wall around a big flake. Somewhat devious.
9	9Shapeshifter, 22	22	25m	6	1.02
P1 22 25m 6 Strangely bolted on the lower section leading to a strenuous pull onto a ledge. Take an unlikely step out right onto the wall (don't worry the holds are there) and up. An alternative mid section was bolted by John Goulstone and Chris Hilder in 2019 which avoids the crux section on ShS , dropping the grade to 19. A worthy variant to a great route.
10	10Cornergeddon, 20	20	17m	7	2.01
P1 20 17m 7 Straight up the imposing corner on occasional crusty rock but awesome none-the-less. A punchy crux near the top.
11	11Chronic Confusion, 22	22			2.01
P1 22
12	12Fire Walker, 19	19			2.01
P1 19
13	13Bush Stream Blues, 19	19			0
P1 19
14	14EPIRB Virgin, 20	20			0
P1 20

Comments

UUID

c05e2d93-4495-433b-8925-0668fa58fa7b