Main Wall Central

The most popular place to climb at Mapoutahi. Make sure you wear a helmet and watch for loose rock. The area around Winona's is a major drainage line that comes down off the railway corridor above and can form into a pumping waterfall that leaves the adjacent routes drenched for days.
For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-3YzIabaVYZ78QvO3jsTHjsml5EMnm8h

Type:

Wall

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality	Bolts	Gone
1	Greek Gift 2	19	15m	0	7
	Launch onto the rock off the top of the boulder at ground level to the right of 'Control' with a few delicate moves to a ledge. Up the groove until forced out onto the face beneath the bulging arete. A couple of power moves into the crack takes you to the chains. Bolted by Steve and given as a gift to Dave. Dave Brash 2012
2	The Brave and Humble	24	15m	1.02	6
	Start as for GG2 then swing out right onto the golden slab. Crimp your way to glory up the steepening wall! Chase Gatland 2013
3	Hell Hath No Fury....	18	15m	1.02	4		1
	The L facing corner. Originally finishing at the top of the pillar it was extended to the top of the corner in 2012. Natural pro optional up initial crack. Steve Carr 1997 (extended 2012)
4	Like a Lover Scorned	20	20m	1.02	8
	The lower section was retrobolted when the Death Block fell out in 2017. Up the resulting left-leaning groove and pull over onto the ledge out right. Now power up the arete above. Quality line. Steve Carr 1997/2017
5	Bronco	22	17m	0	5
	Retrobolted after the Death Block fell out then led by Sam. Crimp your way up the wall onto the slab and finish in the corner. Steve Carr 2012 Sam Waetford 2017
	NR	17		0		1	1

6	Undertow	18	15m	0	5
	Heads up a nice water-worn wall. Steve Carr 2012
7	Winona's Big Brown Beaver - alternative start	16		0	6		1
	An alternative start is to traverse right onto route above the steep crux at the bottom: start from 2 routes to the left to clip bottom bolt, traverse immediately right to next route; climb on this sport route to the obvious weakness to the right. Place small cam (optional) and tenuously traverse right, ending up near 3rd bolt of WBBB. Others have traversed into the route from the route just to the left of WBBB, using a traverse below the 3rd bolt and no gear. You may want a large cam for the final crack at the top of the route, although there are smaller placements lower down. Polly Camber 2013
8	Multi-Author Protocol	21		1.02	7
	A steep and powerful combination on good rock. Start up 'Winona's alt start' or 'Do or Dive' until on the big sloping ledge at half height. Then climb straight up the steep wall above until you can join 'Do or Dive' at it's last bolt. Tim Lewis, Nigel St Louis and Dave Hodson 2014
9	Do or Dive	21		1.02	7
	A great route up the steep and solid wall left of Winona's. Climb easily up to the mid-height ledge, then balance up and right onto the nose. From here, commit to an awesome sequence of crimps, slopers and jugs that diagonals leftwards across the steep upper wall. Steve Carr 2013
10	Winona's Big Brown Beaver	18	20m	1.02	6		1
	Pumpy start to reach high and pull through the crux, and then eases off before a slightly steeper finish. Some cams can be placed to protect the top crack above the last bolt. Calum Hudson, Polly Camber 2012
11	Epilogue	19	20m	0	8
	Crimp your way up the steep wall. A few jugs thrown in for good measure. Conceived and drilled by Calum Hudson who passed away before getting the chance to finish his project. John Goulstone 2018
12	Eject-o-flap	20	20m	1.02	7
	Some powerful moves with a couple of reachey clips. Sharp holds down low. Steven McInally 2012
?	?	17		0	1	1
	Use DS rap station on the left. Only one hanger left on the route. Alternate start on left to avoid chossy overhang. 2013
HoaM	Hanging on a Mystery	21	15m	1.02	8	1	3
	Rick McGregor, Jan 2012
EF	Electro-flage	23	15m	0	8	1
	Steven McInally, 2012
CF	Chocolate Fondue	21	15m	0	6	1
	Just right to EF, sharing first bolt. Beware potential ground fall before clipping second bolt (very easy climbing though). Short technical brainteaser near the top. Drilled by Steve, gifted to Maud. Maud Ceuterick, Gon Nido, 2013
17	Twinkle Toes	18	10m	0		1

19	Polaroid Potential	18	10m	0		1

20	Star Spangled Spanner	20	10m	0		1
	A few nice moves.
21	Sledge Hammer	16	10m	0		1
	Nasty, slippery rock to the first bolt. Not worth it.
1	Friggin Hell		15m	0		1
	A crackline hidden in a corner in the centre of the wall. Surmount a small pillar at the base of the corner and launch up the crack. A range of cams will see you right. Steve Carr. FFA. 1992.
	Rebel Without a Clue	23		0		1
	Somewhere R of Friggin Hell, starting at the high point of the ground and in the main apex of the cliff is ‘an excellent route’ which goes to the top of the cliff to another waratah belay, now overgrown with gorse. Could do with a DBB. Calum Hudson
FW	Fire Walker	19	25m	2.01	13	1
	Starting up what was formerly 'Star Spangled Spanner' on the right hand edge of the Eldorado Wall, this route has been retro bolted on the lower section and now continues to the top of the cliff with the addition of several more bolts making it the longest route on the cliff. Steve Carr. FFA. 2012
GS	Golden Showers	17	20m	2.01	8	1	1
	Superior variant of Kaos. The " 'unprotected L slanting groove.....' - Dave Brash, Dunedin Rock, 2000" - has now been retrobolted. From the wedged spike at the top of the initial corner, launch out right across the void then up the striking golden corner. Power over the bulge on manageable jugginess. Not many grade 17 routes around of this length and quality of rock architecture. Steve Carr, Luke Visser, Calum Hudson. Jan 2012
18	Chronic Confusion	22	25m	0	12	1
	This central line on the Eldorado Wall has been retrobolted, now going to the top of the cliff via a crackline through the upper bulging wall and finishing at the Firewalker belay. Project
	Jospe/Carr Route	19		1.02	9	1
	The groove immediately above the spike on Golden Showers was originally climbed by Michelle Jospe who thought she was on Golden Showers. Steve Carr extended the route to the top of the crag shortly after. From the top of the groove step left onto the ledge then up the blunt arête into the rock scar and rock over onto the hanging slab. Michelle Jospe, 2013.
	Bush Stream Blues	19		0	8	1
	Around grade 19: "Scramble up to high ledge immediately right from start of Fire Walker (staple in wall for belay). Head left into the groove and straight up the arête." -Dunedin Climbing (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151628917090815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater) Dave Brash, 2013.
	New route	22		0	8	1
	Immediately left of Teardrop Arete at Mapoutahi. Climb the pillar in the corner, move rightwards across the wall, then straight up overhanging terrain to finish on the same lichenous slab as Teardrop Arete. . Steve Carr 2014
K	Kaos	19	18m	0	5	1
	Climb the L slanting groove to the wedged spike. Take a line rightwards under Golden Showers corner and around onto the face. Great climbing on excellent rock up to a high belay. Steve Carr, 1997.
Mapoutahi	Cornergeddon	20	17m	2.01	8	1
	It would be a shame if you were put off by the statement in Rock deluxe that this route has the worst rock of the crag because then you'd miss out on a great route. Sure, one or two of the holds are friable, but the bolts are all good - one of the best at Mapoutahi. The big corner immediately left of Fire Walker.
C	Control	20	20m	0	7	1
	Holds quite a lot of interesting climbing. Up the corner from the pillar, then L onto the face past the third bolt. Control has been recently retrobolted. The belay has been relocated to the very top of the wall above three newly positioned bolts. A further bolt has been added on the left hand side of the starting pillar. Steve Carr, FFA 1997.
	Teardrop Arete	18	20m	0	6	1
	Located in the centre of the main wall at Mapoutahi. Approach from the left hand end walking under The Jolly Cobbler Wall. Surmount the detached block to reach the first bolt. Swing left at the top onto the white lichenous slab for an engaging finish!! Steve Carr. 2014
1	Friggin Hell	17	15m	0	3	1
	All natural pro corner to a DBB at 15m. Good pro. Begins off the top of a pillar in a high corner. Clip two bolts to get the business going. At the top of the corner the old chains have been removed and substituted with a bolt runner. The new ring belay can be found just over the brow of the arête above and to the left. Steve Carr. FFA. 1998.
	EPIRB Virgin	20		0		1
	It starts left of Jospe/Carr route and right of BSB: "Delicate, bouldery, off-balance moves from ledge (crux) into corner and leftwards across hanging slab."-Dunedin Climbing (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151650458650815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater) Dave Brash, 2013.

Places

Type	Title	Link to edit content
Area	Main Wall Left Hand Side (0 routes)
Area	Main Cliff Central (4 routes)

UUID:

802a3842-c52f-476e-b722-1dd390a3e9c2

Comments

Bring a helmet and beware

Permalink Submitted by s8piral on Mon, 11/02/2013 - 00:36

Bring a helmet and beware loose rock, as many routes are new climbs and quite hard for their grades. That said, there is some excellent climbing and the crag is cleaning up nicely! Some gear can be handy at times, but most of the climbs are well protected by bolts, if a bit reachy.

(39 routes)

Places

Comments

Bring a helmet and beware