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  6. Jolly Cobbler Wall

Jolly Cobbler Wall

(10 routes)

The overhanging, orange coloured wall named in honour of Steve Komito - ('The Jolly Cobbler of Estes Park'), - Layton Kor's usually terrified belay slave whom Layton invariably hauled up many of his crumbling masterpieces.

For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/open?id=1m1f6B4f7VEB_nfqtruq-ZW65Ru1nTQEJ

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Blunt Buttress 23 30m
2.01
 9bolts
The left most edge of 'Jolly Cobbler' wall. Starts at ground level behind the trees. Up the vertical brown wall to a big pocket then head rightwards onto a ledge for a welcome rest. Some devious moves take you to another bridging rest beneath the rooflet for a quick shakeout. A long reach out right to a hidden hold leads the way out onto the bulging headwall. Sprint for the top but be mindful to hit the two pockets above in the right sequence!
Steve Carr 2014
2 Cola Crack 23
2.01
 9bolts
Overhanging by more than a metre throughout its length, devious and strenuous in nature, this route clocks in at around grade 23/24. Starts at ground level in the righthand corner behind the trees - pull leftwards above the lip of the overhang on solid knobs then straight up the wall to where the crackline appears. Fingerlocks, hands, fists - the stunning upper wall has it all. Superlative climbing.
Steve Carr 2015
3 The Jolly Cobbler 18 ,20 30m
2.01
 14bolts
The first route to breach the unclimbed wall right of Gump's. Originally thought to be too rotten to be climbed, this wall has surprised many with the quality of climbing it holds. Can be climbed in one long 30m pitch - take 14 QD's.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11815m6No
 

Up the track a wee way to a belay ledge carved out of the dirt. Step left into the recess in the wall with a staple in the middle of it then into the crack above. When the crack terminates, move out onto the wall of knobs where steep climbing leads to the semi-hanging belay at 15 metres.
22015m8No
 

Launch rightwards across the wall to some powerful moves through the weakness (take a deep breath and hang in there) before moving back left onto a hanging gray slab. Get set for a stonking finish up the hanging corner. Can be climbed in one long pitch - take two or three extender slings to mitigate rope drag.
Steve Carr 2014
4 Fact or Friction 20
0
 7bolts
From TJC mid-belay, move left and up to a technical finish on high friction rock.
Steve Carr 2015
5 The Altered/Normal Route 22
0
 11bolts
Start a couple of metres right of The Jolly Cobbler, crossing that route at mid height and over the overlap.
Craig Alter, Michael Norman.
6 Dismembered Fish Parts 21
0
 10bolts
Deviate right from TA/N Route and cross over The Jolly Cobbler at mid height. Over the overlap and up just left of the hanging corner to finish on TJC belay.
Craig Alter, Michael Norman.
7 Storming the Palisade 22
1.02
 9bolts
Set right at the very apex of the main wall, this intimidating overhang provides the climber with a huge sense of exposure. Some great rock and moves on this cool route. Initially conceived by Dave Brash who put the work in to establish the belay and begin the cleaning process. Up the slab behind the trees trending left and rock over onto the beautiful golden slab. Bridge the water streaked wall/corner above and crimp your way across onto a good ledge. Up into the top of the black corner on great holds and undercling your way over the roof to glory!
Steve Carr 2015
8 Squealer 18 25m
0
 8bolts
Launch up the slab to a sweet overhang on big holds. Then up the crackline above to some tenuous climbing on positive holds. Drift out left to the belay on a small ledge.
Steve Carr 2016
9 Corvara Hairpin 18 25m
0
 8bolts
'Circumclimbulates' the actual corner by attacking the right-hand wall to mid-height before traversing across the corner to tackle the cruxy left wall. A long sling or quickdraw will help minimise drag on the 4th bolt. The climb is intimately entwined with a previous route established by Calum Hudson circa 1992 called 'Rebel Without a Clue'.
Steve Carr 2016
Killing Time 18 25m
0
A couple of metres further right from Corvara Hairpin is the apex of the track. Killing Time begins a further 3 metres down to the right. Up to the twin pocket before moving over rightwards to the glued on flake. Up into the groove then power out right and up to a ledge on surprisingly good rock. Step over onto the arete, padding easily up to the belay rings.
Steve Carr 2014
Attribution: 
Dunedin Climbing facebook page. Steve Carr.
UUID: 
63681051-a907-4be4-b424-a1ff96bf95b2

Comments

Submitted by davebr on Wed, 08/08/2018 - 17:39

Jolly Cobbler is a three star route! Must be climbed in a single pitch for full value.Take 2 or 3 extenders to mitigate rope drag.