Jolly Cobbler Wall

(8 routes)

The overhanging orange coloured wall that looks like an English cobblestone footpath, right of Gump's But-tock.

For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/open?id=1m1f6B4f7VEB_nfqtruq-ZW65Ru1nTQEJ

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Blunt Buttress 23 30m
2.01
9bolts
The left most edge of 'The Jolly Cobbler' wall. Starts at ground level behind the trees. Up the vertical brown wall to a big pocket then head rightwards onto a ledge for a welcome rest. Some devious moves take you to another bridging rest beneath the rooflet for a quick shakeout. A long reach out right to a hidden hold leads the way out onto the bulging headwall. Sprint for the top but be mindful to hit the two pockets above in the right sequence!
Steve Carr 2014
2 Cola Crack 24
2.01
9bolts
Overhanging by more than a metre throughout its length, devious and strenuous in nature, this route clocks in at around grade 23/24. Starts at ground level in the righthand corner behind the trees - pull leftwards above the lip of the overhang on solid knobs then straight up the wall to where the crackline appears. Fingerlocks, hands, fists - the stunning upper wall has it all. Superlative climbing.
Steve Carr 2015
3 The Jolly Cobbler 18 ,20 30m
2.01
14bolts
The first route to breach the unclimbed wall right of Gump's. Originally thought to be too rotten to be climbed, this wall has surprised many with the quality of climbing it holds. Can be climbed in one long 30m pitch - take 14 QD's.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11815m6No
 Up the track a wee way to a belay ledge carved out of the dirt. Step left into the recess in the wall with a staple in the middle of it then into the crack above. When the crack terminates, move out onto the wall of knobs where steep climbing leads to the semi-hanging belay at 15 metres.
22015m8No
 Launch rightwards across the wall to some powerful moves through the weakness (take a deep breath and hang in there) before moving back left onto a hanging gray slab. Get set for a stonking finish up the hanging corner. Can be climbed in one long pitch - take two or three extender slings to mitigate rope drag.
Steve Carr 2014
4 Fact or Friction 20
0
7bolts
From TJC mid-belay' move left and up to a technical finish on high friction rock.
Steve Carr 2015
7 Storming the Palisade 22
1.02
9bolts
Set right at the very apex of the main wall, this intimidating overhang provides the climber with a huge sense of exposure. Some great rock and moves on this cool route. Initially conceived by Dave Brash who put the work in to establish the belay and begin the cleaning process.
Steve Carr 2015
Killing Time 18 6m
0
A couple of metres further right from Corvara Hairpin is the apex of the track. Killing Time begins a further 3 metres down to the right. Up to the twin pocket then rightwards to the glued on flake. Power over the bulge on surprisingly good rock, padding easily up the arĂȘte to the belay rings.
Steve Carr 2014
8 Squealer 18 25m
0
8bolts
Launch up the slab to a sweet overhang on big holds. Then up the crackline above to some tenuous climbing on positive holds. Drift out left to the belay on a small ledge.
Steve Carr 2016
9 Corvara Hairpin 18 25m
0
8bolts
'Circumclimbulates' the actual corner by attacking the right-hand wall to mid-height before traversing across the corner to tackle the cruxy left wall. A long sling or quickdraw will help minimise drag on the 4th bolt. The climb is intimately entwined with a previous route established by Calum Hudson circa 1992 called 'Rebel Without a Clue'.
Steve Carr 2016
Attribution: 
Dunedin Climbing facebook page. Steve Carr.

Comments

Jolly Cobbler is a three star route! Must be climbed in a single pitch for full value.Take 2 or 3 extenders to mitigate rope drag.