Place info

Jolly Cobbler Wall

(10 routes)

The overhanging orange coloured wall that looks like an English cobblestone footpath, right of Gump's But-tock.

For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/open?id=1m1f6B4f7VEB_nfqtruq-ZW65Ru1nTQEJ

  • North East

    Aspect

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North East

The overhanging orange coloured wall that looks like an English cobblestone footpath, right of Gump's But-tock.

For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/open?id=1m1f6B4f7VEB_nfqtruq-ZW65Ru1nTQEJ

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
1
23
2.01
30m
9X bolts
  The left most edge of 'The Jolly Cobbler' wall. Starts at ground level behind the trees. Up the vertical brown wall to a big pocket then head rightwards onto a ledge for a welcome rest. Some devious moves take you to another bridging rest beneath the rooflet for a quick shakeout. A long reach out right to a hidden hold leads the way out onto the bulging headwall. Sprint for the top but be mindful to hit the two pockets above in the right sequence!

Steve Carr 2014

2
24
2.01
9X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Overhanging by more than a metre throughout its length, devious and strenuous in nature, this route clocks in at around grade 23/24. Starts at ground level in the righthand corner behind the trees - pull leftwards above the lip of the overhang on solid knobs then straight up the wall to where the crackline appears. Fingerlocks, hands, fists - the stunning upper wall has it all. Superlative climbing.

Steve Carr 2015

3
18 ,20
2.01
30m
14X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
 

The first route to breach the unclimbed wall right of Gump's. Originally thought to be too rotten to be climbed, this wall has surprised many with the quality of climbing it holds. Can be climbed in one long 30m pitch - take 14 QD's.

  1. Up the track a wee way to a belay ledge carved out of the dirt. Step left into the recess in the wall with a staple in the middle of it then into the crack above. When the crack terminates, move out onto the wall of knobs where steep climbing leads to the semi-hanging belay at 15 metres.
  2. Launch rightwards across the wall to some powerful moves through the weakness (take a deep breath and hang in there) before moving back left onto a hanging gray slab. Get set for a stonking finish up the hanging corner. Can be climbed in one long pitch - take two or three extender slings to mitigate rope drag.

Steve Carr 2014

4
20
0
7X bolts
  From TJC mid-belay' move left and up to a technical finish on high friction rock.

Steve Carr 2015

5
22
0
15m
11X bolts
  Starts a couple of metres uphill from TJC and takes a more or less direct line up the wall and over a small overlap onto the gray rock.

Craig Alter, Michael Norman 2016

6
22
0
30m
11X bolts
  Shares the start of TANR before breaking out right, crossing over TJC and over the overlap above. Up the gray wall and hand traverse across to TJC belay.

Craig Alter, Michael Norman 2016

7
22
1.02
9X bolts
  Set right at the very apex of the main wall, this intimidating overhang provides the climber with a huge sense of exposure. Some great rock and moves on this cool route. Initially conceived by Dave Brash who put the work in to establish the belay and begin the cleaning process.

Steve Carr 2015

8
18
0
25m
8X bolts
  Launch up the slab to a sweet overhang on big holds. Then up the crackline above to some tenuous climbing on positive holds. Drift out left to the belay on a small ledge.

Steve Carr 2016

9
18
0
25m
8X bolts
  'Circumclimbulates' the actual corner by attacking the right-hand wall to mid-height before traversing across the corner to tackle the cruxy left wall. A long sling or quickdraw will help minimise drag on the 4th bolt. The climb is intimately entwined with a previous route established by Calum Hudson circa 1992 called 'Rebel Without a Clue'.

Steve Carr 2016

18
0
6m
One or more images in route detail.
  A couple of metres further right from Corvara Hairpin is the apex of the track. Killing Time begins a further 3 metres down to the right. Up to the twin pocket then rightwards to the glued on flake. Power over the bulge on surprisingly good rock, padding easily up the arĂȘte to the belay rings.

Steve Carr 2014

Attribution: 
Dunedin Climbing facebook page. Steve Carr.

Comments

Comments

Jolly Cobbler is a three star route! Must be climbed in a single pitch for full value.Take 2 or 3 extenders to mitigate rope drag.

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