Eldorado Wall

(10 routes)

The orange portion of wall located just before The Stronghold boulder.

For high-resolution topo (printing, etc.): https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iBKBSpnKZnJQDBRe-HDvuIjOGQy0Qtjs

Altitude: 
5m
Type: 
Wall
Access: 

Via Stronghold track or from road to beach.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Chronic Confusion 18 ,22 50m
2.01
12bolts
This central line on the Eldorado Wall has been retrobolted, now going to the top of the cliff via a crackline through the upper bulging wall and finishing at the Firewalker belay. Up the steep lower wall and onto the ledge. Your second may want to come up also to join in on the action (and to reduce rope drag).
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11825mNo
 

This central line on the Eldorado Wall has been retrobolted, now going to the top of the cliff via a crackline through the upper bulging wall and finishing at the Firewalker belay. Up the steep lower wall and onto the ledge. Your second may want to come up also to join in on the action (and to reduce rope drag).

22225m12No
 

Bury your hands deep in the hollows and swing left into the tips crackline that opens to hands up higher.

Steve Carr 2013
2 Fire Walker 19 25m
2.01
13bolts
Step across onto the lower wall and drift rightwards and up to a vertical step. Cool holds and moves land you at the base of a corner. Up this and out onto the left wall where a series of thin moves eventually lead to a ledge below the final headwall.
Steve Carr 2012
3 Bush Stream Blues 19 25m
0
8bolts
Scramble up to the top of the grassy ledge immediately right from the start of Fire Walker (the top has been flattened off and a belay staple is in the wall behind). Head left into the groove and straight up the arĂȘte.
Dave Brash 2013
4 EPIRB Virgin 20 25m
0
8bolts
Starts at the same staple belay at BSB. Delicate, bouldery, off-balance moves in the hanging groove above the belay (crux) and onto a ledge. Up the corner above then move out left onto the hanging slab.
Dave Brash 2013
5 Jospe/Carr Route (full) 19 25m
1.02
10bolts
The groove immediately above the spike on Golden Showers was originally climbed by Michelle Jospe who thought she was on Golden Showers. Steve Carr extended the route to the top of the crag shortly after. From the top of the groove step left onto the ledge then up the blunt arĂȘte into the rock scar and rock over onto the hanging slab.
Michelle Jospe 2013. Steve Carr 2013.
6 Jospe/Carr Route 19 20m
1.02
8bolts
At the top of the groove head over right to the GS belay.
Michelle Jospe 2013. Steve Carr 2013.
7 Golden Showers 17 20m
2.01
9bolts
Superior variant of Kaos. The " 'unprotected L slanting groove.....' - Dave Brash, Dunedin Rock, 2000" - has now been retrobolted. From the wedged spike at the top of the initial corner, launch out right across the void then up the striking golden corner. Power over the bulge on manageable jugginess. Not many grade 17 routes around of this length and quality of rock architecture.
Steve Carr, Luke Visser, Calum Hudson 2012
8 Kaos 19 20m
1.02
9bolts
Climb the L slanting groove to the wedged spike. Cross the void and take a line rightwards at the base of the Golden Showers corner and around onto the face. Great climbing on excellent rock up to a high belay.
Steve Carr 1997
9 The Croffiton Touch 24 20m
1.02
8bolts
Starts on the wall behind the Stronghold. Crimps and layaways lead into GS or K to finish.
Jonathon Clearwater 2004
10 Control 20 20m
1.02
8bolts
Holds quite a lot of interesting climbing. Up the corner from the pillar, then L onto the face past the third bolt. Control has been recently retrobolted (2016). The belay has been relocated to the very top of the wall above three newly positioned bolts. A further bolt has been added on the left hand side of the starting pillar.
Steve Carr 1997
UUID: 
4dd2b5f3-7421-460e-80ab-e2e8e3acf21a