Platform Face | ClimbNZ

Type

Sector

Part of

Lovers Leap

The wall under the platform. Furtherest away from the approach.

Lovers Leap Platform Face 2 hand drawn topo

Walktime

25min

Aspect

South

Approach

Walk L under the crag 200-300m until you are directly in line with the gash under the natural bridge.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Back to the Wall, 22	22	20m	6	1.02
P1 22 20m 6 Trad Walk L under the crag 200-300m until you are directly in line with the gash under the natural bridge. Start up crack (crux natural pro) which splits the broad buttress directly beneath the observation platform, then only slightly easier climbing past the vegetated ledge following the line of 5 bolts.
2	2Gumboots, 20	20	14m		0
P1 20 14m Trad Packed with action from start to finish. Exit R to DBB
3	3Artificial Weddings, 27	27	13m	2	0
P1 27 13m 2 Trad Thin climbing in the shallow groove with ridiculous RP pro before high bolt.
4	4Extreme Measures, 23	23	12m	4	0
P1 23 12m 4 Great short sport climb. 4B on face 2m R or AW
5	5Excruciate Crack, 20	20		1	0
P1 20 1 Trad 40m R of EM is a nose about 6m above the ground. Start 5m L of the nose. Start marked by bolt at 2m (rarely dry)
6	6Water World, 19	19			0
P1 19 Trad Start under nose, to ring bolt at 10m. Extension grade 23 is rarely dry enough to climb.
7	7Dave Brash's Climb, 18	18			0
This routes doesn't have a belay ring. Traverse across right to the ring next door. P1 18 Trad
8	8Steve Carr's Climb, 21	21		3	0
P1 21 3 Nice face climbing that makes you think.
9	9Jam & Biscuits, 14	14	13m		0
P1 14 13m Trad Learn how to jam and chimney. Twin facing cracks and corners with the black inset wall.
10	10The Empire Strikes Back, 22	22	13m		0
P1 22 13m Trad Grunty thin crack & bulge 1m R of J&B
11	11Return of the Jedi, 19	19	13m		1.02
P1 19 13m Trad Corner Crack
12	12Dave Brash's Climb, 21	21	18m	2	1.02
P1 21 18m 2 Trad A staunch wee corner that will get you thinking - and skating! You're now warmed up for the face above. Place a big wire or med cam and shoot straight up the crack above or alternatively inch out right and up before heading back left to the belay.
13	13Strawberry Jam, 16	16			0
P1 16 Trad Dodgy rock at top.
14	14Tears from Heaven, 22	22	25m	13	1.02
Starts approximately 20metres right of Strawberry Jam. Scramble up onto the top of a pillar detached from the wall and reach across the void to make the first clip. Step across onto the wall and steeply up to a tricky move across to the right. Up into a corner and ledge then out left and up a flake to the belay on the edge of the Cyclops Eye. P1 22 25m 13 Scramble up onto the top of two pillars and step across onto the wall. Nice juggy climbing until a staunch move rightwards to the arête then up. Cross over the cleft then up onto a ledge beneath a hanging corner. Bridge the corner before striking out leftwards up a black flake to an atmospheric belay on the lower edge of the Cyclop's Eye.

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UUID

6feb5b67-ef7c-4062-8932-08157d79a770