Left Side Main Wall

(18 routes)

A cluster of mostly easier short crack corners with excellent pro, often split by ledges but all worth doing as an introduction to the Leap, and warm ups for the for the harder RHS climbs. The LH routes also dispense with the annoying band of choss at the start.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
0 Access Route 16 18m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the Lh facing corner of the easy looking gully, then diagonally R up ramps and short corners to JtI & CTA belays.
Dave Brash 2002
1 Cardboard Choas 23 18m
0
wire representing trad
Thin crack takes small wires & cams to #0.5.
Kieth Riley 2002
2 Just the Tick-it 22 18m
0
wire representing trad
Desperately layback while placing wires & CDs to 0.5 You've been warned!
Steve Carr 2002
3 Canada Dreaming 25 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
The Steep crack just just L of CTA is independent for about 7m, but packs in a huge punch. Both muscular & subtle, on adequate pro.
Keith Riley 2001
4 Crying Time Again 18 25m
2.01
wire representing trad
A good first climb at the Leap with bomber pro and sensational climbing up the twin cracks between the pillars. Start by scrambling up the blocky ledges past the chain link belay bolt down and right of Just the Tick-et. Some tricky bridging to get off the ledge, then superb jams and bridging lead up to an exciting move leftwards at the top into the left crack. Continue easily up the short corner on the left to the same belay bolts as Triple Treat.
Dave Brash 2001
5 Triple Treat 19 30m
1.02
wire representing trad
One of Al's more sane on-sight pioneering efforts here. Feels like 3 short routes one after the other. From the rock prow belay below Side Effect, clip the bolt and climb easily up to the ledge at 5m, then 3 linked corners moving L at each ledge to finish at the belay chain above Crying Time Again. Another good introduction to the area with good protection and lots of bridging.
Al Ritchie 1998
6 Side Effect 22 25m
2.01
5bolts wire representing trad
Great consumer climb, the routes name gives some beta. Start up the 1st of Triple Treat's 3 corners, then move right to all bolt pro for the business end of the climb. Up the deceptively steep corner above, before finessing through the small roof and finishing directly up the exposed arete above. You'll find out why you were melting off those jugs when you rap back down. Triple bolt belay.
Dave Brash 2002
7 Don't Cry For Me Argentina 25 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
A great crux up high. Start as for TT & SE, moving R past bolt & follow likely cracks (twin ropes useful) to finish up R facing corner to SE's DBB. For a mega 50m pitch carry on up The Cure if you dare.
Kieth Riley 2002
8 Slapstick 21 20m
0
2bolts wire representing trad 1
2 bolts protect access R to steep crack splitting buttress R of DCFMA. The continuation is a RH facing corner which links The Cure. Climbed by JC at grade 25 in 2006
Steve Carr 2004
9 Al's Jam Crack 19 24m
1.02
wire representing trad
Perfect hand jamming, would get more stars if longer. once on the ledge there are furthur options.
Al Ritchie 1999
10 Left Side Spike 20
0
wire representing trad
Bridging up the L facing corner crack cumulates in a tricky crux move to the tantilising jug. Take CDs up to #1.5. Finish at DBB just above and to the R of the spike.
Al Ritchie 1999
11 The Cure 20 20m
0
4bolts wire representing trad
This mind excursion is climbed as a 2nd pitch to TA, but can be accessed by any route between Se & TA. Cruxy bolt protected climbing on breccia knobs above a rubble ledge (don't fall off clipping) before bridging upthe easier groove ( natural pro, not the best rock) and stepping out to atmospheric DBB under roof.
Steve Carr 2001
12 The Affliction 18 20m
1.02
wire representing trad
The R side of the spike. Interesting climbing.
Steve Carr 2001
13 Walk of Shame 19 11m
1.02
wire representing trad
Short but nice L facing corner
Dave Brash 2001
14 Stereo Cameo 19 12m
0
wire representing trad
From the fixed rope ledge, move up & R onto ledge. Great little test-piece crux follows cruisy bridging up twin facing corner cracks above
Dave Brash 2001
15 Brave Dash 20 12m
0
wire representing trad
From DBB around the corner from SC, tricky to climb & place pro for a few metres, then respite before the easier but run-out chimney. Finish as for SC
Milo Gilmour 2002
Man of Leisure 28
3
6bolts wire representing trad 1
Powerful and tenuous climbing up to and through a bulge (all on bolts). There is a lower off ring above the bulge if you are only interested in sport climbing - however the original route continues up a well protected finger crack at grade 25. Take a selection of wires and small to med cams.
Jonathon Clearwater FFA 2006
16 Maximun Pseudo Likelihood 28 20m
3
10bolts
The late Bill Bradshaw's classic addition to the Dunedin climbing scene. Spectacular! Bullet hard orangey rock, ultra techinical, quite powerful & sustained climbing with only a few places to sneak a quick shake.
Bill Bradshaw 2004
UUID: 
e452b193-c654-42a3-a8a6-934a5bfdf5bc