The Arches

(50 routes)

At beach level, 5 minutes walk east along the beach from Doctors Point carpark.

Altitude: 
0m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
5min
Access: 

The Arches area is a 300m walk east along the beach from the Doctors Point carpark. It is ofter sunny and sheltered in midwinter but can be windy with a strong southwesterly wind

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Jason's line 24 25m
0
7bolts
bouldery start through overhang off the sand and up steep wall
Jason Searle 2008
1 Calypso 23 14m
0
The brittle start to the high 1st bolt will put most punters off.
Tony Pine, 1998.
2 Nervous Wreck 16 ,17 16m
0
18bolts wire representing trad
Climb the L wing of the Delta Slab on bolts to the corner then onto the nose and DBB. Use the new upper chain belay. Watch rope drag across the slab.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11616m10Yes
 

Climb the L wing of the Delta Slab on bolts to the corner then onto the nose and DBB. Use the new upper chain belay.
Watch rope drag across the slab.

2170m8No
 

Up then move right to a groove with gopod but hidden crimps. Up slab to left hand crack on upper wall.

Murray Judge, 1998.
Nervous Breakdown 18 ,18
0
10bolts
45 m rap to the beach or rap diagonally back to first belay and down from there.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1180m6No
 

from first belay on Nervous Wreak up and right then downsloping slab, exposed reach around corner and up groove to belay.

2180m4No
 

up to right hand crack with some reachy moves.

Steve Carr, Dave Brash Murray Judge 2017
3 Thrill Me, Honey Honey, Thrill Me! 22 24m
2.01
Thrilling climbing once you are in the steep ground – has what it takes to become a classic. Up overlaps to a corner above the Delta Slab, then memorably L to a jug. The last move to the DBB under the roof is the crux.
Steve Carr, 1999.
4 Gold Digger 19 ,17 51m
0
16bolts
The R wing of the Delta Slab is followed out right to the steep wall. Up and R to belay on the nose.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11926m8No
 

The R wing of the Delta Slab is followed out right to the steep wall. Up and R to belay on the nose.

21725m8No
 

up and left passing the old belay, take care around some wedged blocks then upper wall

Murray Judge, 1999.
5 The Mast 23 23m
1.02
The sustained crux sequence high on the headwall is only unlocked when the secret hold is discovered – superlative and worth enduring the inferior climbing to get to it.
Steve Carr, 1999.
6 Barracouda 20 ,16 38m
0
5bolts
Has sharp teeth! A good crux section. Pull steeply and sharply through the initial overlaps past many bolts (you may want to back unclip to prevent rope drag), heading for the deep hanging V corner (crux). belay at left on the nose.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12023mNo
 

Has sharp teeth! A good crux section. Pull steeply and sharply through the initial overlaps past many bolts (you may want to back unclip to prevent rope drag), heading for the deep hanging V corner (crux). belay at left on the nose.

21615m5No
 

traverse right and step around onto the arete to belay on upper slab.

Murray Judge, 1999.
7 Wobblington or Bust 21 ,16 27m
0
wire representing trad
Some good moves up the steep arete – DBB on the ledge at the lower LH corner of the black slab.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12115mYes
 

Some good moves up the steep arete – DBB on the ledge at the lower LH corner of the black slab.

21612mYes
 

Up and out L to DBB.

Matt Squires, 1998. Murray Judge, 1999.
Nacho's Climb 23 18m
0
7bolts
some hard crimpy moves through the first bulge and similar over the final wall to the belay ledge
Nacho Torroja and Maria Royo June 2019
Atlantis 18 ,17 45m
0
16bolts
groove with tricky bulge to reach a left facing niche just below the slab, move left to belay ledge
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11820m7No
 

groove with tricky bulge to reach a left facing niche just below the slab, move left to belay ledge

21725m9No
 

up the slab to the break at the right end of the roof, up and traverse right to square cut corner. Up 3m then right slanting slab. 40m back to beach or use rap stations

Murray Judge Navideep Sing Brar 2016
Black slab direct start 14 21m
0
7bolts
R facing black corner cave 3m left of original start. Up and left to ledge then step right and up to second ledge. Up slab to ring belay just below the roof
Murray Judge 2016
8 Black Slab 15 ,16 43m
0
15bolts
Brittle slabby climbing on the first route put up on the Lower Cliffs at Doctors Point. up short crimpy slab to shallow corner and directly up to slab and belay at the roof.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11521m7No
 

Brittle slabby climbing on the first route put up on the Lower Cliffs at Doctors Point. up short crimpy slab to shallow corner and directly up to slab and belay at the roof.

21622m8No
 

work left across the slab to a step left onto upper slab then directly up wall above

Murray Judge, 1998.
Dreadnought 16 20m
0
8bolts
up wall to left racing corner below the large roof, step right to the belay on small slab
Murray Judge 2016
Buried Treasure 17 26m
0
9bolts
Up the blocky corner to finish high up and left of the pine tree
Murray Judge 2016
Sandstorm 21 25m
0
8bolts
start up the black textured left facing slab, up crimpy steep wall to the belay behind the pine tree
Navideep Singh Brar 2016
Sandyhook 17 25m
0
7bolts
the narrow groove on the left side of the rib then up right wall onto slab
Navideep Singh Brar 2016
The Eleventh Hour 16
0
8bolts
bridge into the groove then delicately up the left arete
Murray Judge Nov 2018
Sand Castle 15 25m
0
8bolts
outside face of rib to the left of the big pine tree, up steepening line to gain the slab.
Murray Judge 2016
Shifting Sands 15 29m
3
11bolts
the right facing corner just left of the big pine tree. Up blocky corner to step onto the slab, move right then up the upper wall.
Murray Judge Steve Carr 2016
Quicksand 17 28m
0
11bolts
up Shifting Sands to the midway slab then out left up the slab and curve right under the overhang to SS belay
Murray Judge, Navideep Singh Brar 2016
GBH 18 20m
0
8bolts
off the ledge behind the big pine tree- scramble up sandy bank.left hand end of the ledge up wall with some difficult moves through overlaps
Steve Carr Dave Brash 2016
Desert Storm 17 20m
0
6bolts
from the middle of the ledge behind the big pine, up overlaps to a tricky move in the groove
Trump Tower 16 20m
0
7bolts
up the sandy slope behind the big pine tree to a smaller pine, short left facing corner to slab. Left across the slab to steeper finish
Steve Carr Murray Judge 2016
Back to Black 16 18m
0
7bolts
scramble to grassy ledge from the beach or behind the big pine, blocky arete then right to the belay
Murray Judge 2016
Read between the Lines 17 18m
0
7bolts
left facing corner with thin move onto the slab
Navideep Singh Brar 2016
Hot ‘n’ Spicy 19 33m
1.02
Walk 20m right from Black Slab past a pine tree (the only one close to beach level). Starting with an unsalubrious scramble up the gap between the gorse bushes. Really enjoyable, on surprisingly good rock. Carefully up and R on easy vegetated ground for 8m to the lower R edge of the hanging buttress. Great, steep climbing on jugs and side-pulls through overlaps to a slab, following 6 bolts. Take some CD’s to #3 or #3.5 to protect the final crack to the ringbolts. A single doubled rope will reach easy downclimbing to get off .
.Murray Judge, 1999.
Nautical but nice 20 26m
0
10bolts
Right side of lower pillar (shared start with Beached Whale)
Sam Henehan sept 2018
Beached Whale 20 26m
0
11bolts
right side of low pillar, uo left facing corner to ledge on right, step left and through steep country to upper groove and onto the slab.
Murray Judge Aug 2018
Shrimp 16 15m
0
5bolts
shallow groove to start and up to half height ledge. Maybe a second pitch one day?
Murray Judge Sept 2018
Little Blue 17 26m
0
8bolts
off sandy platform, step right up low slab then left around bulge. Up black wall and finish right to belay
Murray Judge Sept 2018
Happy Feet 17 28m
0
11bolts
shared start with Little blue, up and right on right slanting slab then bridge groove and up broken pillar to slab. continue up to hanging corner and a delicate step right above the large roof
Sam Henehan Sept 2018
Lone Pine 17 27m
0
9bolts
At the left end of the ngaio trees is a short track up to the base of Kingmaker. Half way up the track follow a V groove to the triangular roof and break out left and up to belay on the right of the pine tree.
Murray Judge Oct 2018
Kingmaker 17 25m
0
8bolts
Start from a grassy ledge above cluster of ngaio trees, moving out left of the main corner with a tricky move back right around a roof to gain the clean upper slab.
John Hamilton 2017
Kingfisher 16 25m
0
8bolts
Start 15m above the beach above cluster of Ngaio trees. Move right on jugs then up and back left to the upper slab which is shared with Kingmaker.
Murray Judge 2017
Shattered Dreams 17 22m
0
8bolts
Scamble onto boulders leaning against the wall, slab then some delicate bridging.
Steve Carr 2017
Taken by the Tide 19 ,15 19m
0
9bolts 1
left facing wall with high step onto slab and finish out right
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11911m5No
 

left facing wall with high step onto slab and finish out right

2158m4No
 

on up the rib

Murray and Bronwyn Judge July 2018
Sand Hopper 17 25m
0
9bolts
Just past low angle rib and rocky island, overhanging left facing corner. Bridge steeply to ledge then up groove and wall above
Murray Judge June 2018
the Reef 8,16 26m
0
10bolts
Two starts up the low angle rib to belay on ledge
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1813m5No
 

Two starts up the low angle rib to belay on ledge

21613m5No
 

Second pitch up groove and wall

John Hamilton Murray Judge 2016
Scratchie 16 25m
0
6bolts
shallow R facing corner just before the rib and rocky island, up steep start to the slab and right to rib
John Hamilton May 2018
Spring Tide 16 25m
0
8bolts
steep start off the sand move left to slab and up rib to Scratchie belay
Murray and Bronwyn Judge July 2018
Kilimanjaro 16 27m
0
8bolts
juggy start off the beach then up groove and through small overhang
Sam Henehan July 2018
Tumbleweed 15 25m
0
7bolts
start at the sharply cut groove at beach level, up initial slab and rib above.
Murray Judge 2017
Ebb and Flow 15 ,15 28m
0
11bolts
shared start with Tumbleweed, at second bolt traverse left below the grey wall then around arete and up slab to belay
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11515m6No
 

shared start with Tumbleweed, at second bolt traverse left below the grey wall then around arete and up slab to belay

21513m5No
 

step up and left to the black slab

John Hamilton May 2018
The Black Tower 16 22m
0
7bolts
up shallow groove move left at 3rd layback and reach right to a good jug, stay on left of bolts. there is a right hand variation at 18
Sam Henehan March 2019
Cobblestone 16 26m
0
80bolts
start in shallow corner, up pebbles and slab to belay just left of the pine tree
Murray Judge Jan 2019
Emperor 18 26m
0
8bolts
bridge up the left side of two blocks then up the pillar to belay ledge
Murray Judge Jan 2019
Le Quesnoy Ladder 15
0
8bolts
up narrow rib to white slab moving up and right over flakes to belay
Sam Henehan Nov 2018
Armistice 16
0
8bolts
up slab then right to small arete and steeper finish out left
John Hamilton Dec 2018
. 17
0
UUID: 
dc7d43fc-fa09-451c-bcdd-60e597e83179