Railway Cutting Crag

(17 routes)

A concentrated burst of effort from Murray Judge and friends from Oamaru produced 15 mainly bolt protected climbs in the quarried blocky rock, sometimes sharp and with unreliable solidity, and not always scrupulously cleaned. The great north facing site would be even more pleasant if the gorse was eradicated. The crag has been well equipped with epoxied stainless steel bolts and ringbolt rap stations. Take some natural pro to supplement the primary bolt protection on most climbs.

Altitude: 
75m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
20 min
Access: 

To access the Railway Cutting crag, climb up the grassy slope to the railway line, which traverses the hill about 75m above the beach. An alternative way to the cutting is to turn into White Rd (it really is white) 700m before the beach and park at the railway crossing. Walk east along the line for 20 minutes to the tunnel portal, which marks the RH end of the crag. Keep a careful watch for trains, and stay out of the tunnel at all times. Alternative access from the east is as follows: from Mapoutahi crag, walk 100 m to the neck of the peninsula (Mapoutahi Pa, a near impregnable Maori fortress inhabited until the 18th century). A rough track ascends the spur to the railway line, coming out close to the eastern portal of the tunnel. Total walking time from Mapoutahi crag to Railway Cutting crag

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Teletubbies 19 22m
0
1
Murray Judge, 1998.
2 Loony Tunes 21 22m
0
Worth doing – it’s quite good.
Matt Squires, 1998.
3 Couch Potato 19 22m
0
wire representing trad
Good rock. Bring your RP’s.
Murray Judge, 1998.
4 Lounge Lizard 19 22m
0
Come in from the L past 2 bolts to the arete.
Murray Judge, 1998.
5 Lounge Lizard Direct Start 17 22m
0
The best way to do the arete route. Nice moves through steep lower section to the arete.
Joss Alexander, 1998.
6 Blueskin Bay 17 25m
0
wire representing trad
Interesting. Take CD’s to 2.5 and long runners.
John Hamilton, 1998.
7 The Light at the End of the Tunnel 17 20m
2.01
comes when you find those jugs on the arete.
Murray Judge, 1998.
8 Saskatoon 19 22m
0
A couple more bolts and grades added to this route have brought it into line.
Matt Squires, 1998.
9 Babewatch 20 20m
1.02
wire representing trad
Interesting climbing up the deep corner and through the overlap.
Ashley Pickworth, 1998.
10 Cam Overkill 18 18m
0
Good moves on the steep upper section.
Ashley Pickworth, 1998.
11 Manic Motorbike Muncher 15 18m
0
Manky all natural line, needs a good clean.
Matt Squires, 1998.
12 Hole in the Wall 15 17m
1.02
5bolts
Novelty move - undercling the bottom of the hole with one hand and reach for the top of the hole with the other. Traverse right at the top to finish at the same anchors as Escalator.
Murray Judge, 1998.
13 Escalator 16 17m
1.02
5bolts wire representing trad
Direct to same DBB as Hole in the Wall. Between the 4th bolt and anchors as marked on the map there is one more bolt.
Sam Brooks, 1998.
14 Teflon President 16 16m
2.01
7bolts
10m to the R of Escalator. In between the 4th and 5th bolts as marked on the diagram there is another bolt. DBB anchors at the top have been cut so be prepared to lower/rapelle from the single bolt at the top.
Matt Squires, 1998.
15 Tunnel-Web Terror 15 15m
1.02
6bolts
Two bolts have been added between the second and third bolts as marked on the diagram. Pretty hard to see them from the ground but they are there and the route is well protected overall and not too run out.
Ashley Pickworth, 1998.
16 Erotic Vulture 18 15m
3
5bolts
Small incuts provide the solution to move past the last 2 bolts.
Matt Squires, 1998.
17 Late Press 19 10m
0
Just discovered – this short boulder problem route with 2 or 3 bolts on the far R of the crag close to the tunnel portal.
UUID: 
553b3e40-7e49-44f1-9ef5-bbe3369a37d6

Comments

Have added detail to climbs 12 through 16. Fantastic location. Take a saw and machete and do some gorse pruning in between climbing.