Railway Cutting Crag

Type

Altitude

75m

Part of

A concentrated burst of effort from Murray Judge and friends from Oamaru produced 15 mainly bolt protected climbs in the quarried blocky rock, sometimes sharp and with unreliable solidity, and not always scrupulously cleaned. The great north facing site would be even more pleasant if the gorse was eradicated. The crag has been well equipped with epoxied stainless steel bolts and ringbolt rap stations. Take some natural pro to supplement the primary bolt protection on most climbs.

Walktime

20 min

Aspect

North

Approach

To access the Railway Cutting crag, climb up the grassy slope to the railway line, which traverses the hill about 75m above the beach. An alternative way to the cutting is to turn into White Rd (it really is white) 700m before the beach and park at the railway crossing. Walk east along the line for 20 minutes to the tunnel portal, which marks the RH end of the crag. Keep a careful watch for trains, and stay out of the tunnel at all times. Alternative access from the east is as follows: from Mapoutahi crag, walk 100 m to the neck of the peninsula (Mapoutahi Pa, a near impregnable Maori fortress inhabited until the 18th century). A rough track ascends the spur to the railway line, coming out close to the eastern portal of the tunnel. Total walking time from Mapoutahi crag to Railway Cutting crag

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Teletubbies, 19	19	22m		0
P1 19 22m Trad
2	2Loony Tunes, 21	21	22m		0
P1 21 22m Trad Worth doing – it’s quite good.
3	3Couch Potato, 19	19	22m		0
P1 19 22m Trad Good rock. Bring your RP’s.
4	4Lounge Lizard, 19	19	22m	2	0
P1 19 22m 2 Trad Come in from the L past 2 bolts to the arete.
5	5Lounge Lizard Direct Start, 17	17	22m		0
P1 17 22m The best way to do the arete route. Nice moves through steep lower section to the arete.
6	6Blueskin Bay, 17	17	25m		0
P1 17 25m Trad Interesting. Take CD’s to 2.5 and long runners.
7	7The Light at the End of the Tunnel, 17	17	20m		2.01
P1 17 20m comes when you find those jugs on the arete.
8	8Saskatoon, 19	19	22m		0
P1 19 22m Trad A couple more bolts and grades added to this route have brought it into line.
9	9Babewatch, 20	20	20m		1.02
P1 20 20m Trad Interesting climbing up the deep corner and through the overlap.
10	10Cam Overkill, 18	18	18m		0
P1 18 18m Trad Good moves on the steep upper section.
11	11Manic Motorbike Muncher, 15	15	18m		0
P1 15 18m Trad Manky all natural line, needs a good clean.
12	12Hole in the Wall, 15	15	17m	5	1.02
P1 15 17m 5 Novelty move - undercling the bottom of the hole with one hand and reach for the top of the hole with the other. Traverse right at the top to finish at the same anchors as Escalator.
13	13Escalator, 16	16	17m	5	1.02
P1 16 17m 5 Trad Direct to same DBB as Hole in the Wall. Between the 4th bolt and anchors as marked on the map there is one more bolt.
14	14Teflon President, 16	16	16m	7	2.01
P1 16 16m 7 10m to the R of Escalator. In between the 4th and 5th bolts as marked on the diagram there is another bolt. DBB anchors at the top have been cut so be prepared to lower/rapelle from the single bolt at the top.
15	15Tunnel-Web Terror, 15	15	15m	6	1.02
P1 15 15m 6 Two bolts have been added between the second and third bolts as marked on the diagram. Pretty hard to see them from the ground but they are there and the route is well protected overall and not too run out.
16	16Erotic Vulture, 18	18	15m	5	3
P1 18 15m 5 Small incuts provide the solution to move past the last 2 bolts.
17	17Late Press, 19	19	10m		0
P1 19 10m Just discovered – this short boulder problem route with 2 or 3 bolts on the far R of the crag close to the tunnel portal.

Comments

shoda504

Have added detail to climbs 12 through 16. Fantastic location. Take a saw and machete and do some gorse pruning in between climbing.

Sun, 02/06/2013 - 09:52 Permalink

UUID

553b3e40-7e49-44f1-9ef5-bbe3369a37d6