Bannockburn Bridge - Cromwell

(17 routes)

Nice crag by the lake. Mostly good rock. The routes are described from left to right, starting at the small buttress to the left of prominent east facing wall. This wall is shaded by early afternoon and the steeper northeast facing routes are in the shade by 5pm in summer. There is a good swimming hole just a few metres from the base of the crag.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
200m
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
3
Access: 

Driving from Cromwell to Bannockburn on Bannockburn Road, cross bridge over the Kawarau River, turn left onto Cairnmuir Road. Pull over at first pullout on left and walk down and left to crag. It is easy to walk to either the top of the crag to set up topropes or to the bottom to lead.

Lat/Lon: 
-45.080248000000, 169.169669000000
NZMS260: 
F41 085 627
Topo50: 
CC12 985 010
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Project 21 12m
0
6bolts
Left of Flash in the Pan. Anchors only but open for development. Grade and bolts are a left over from a duplicate of the adjacent route that I couldn't figure out how to delete.
Flash in the Pan 21 12m
1.02
6bolts
This route is located on the small buttress beyond the big gum tree. Clip the first bolt from the boulder, this bolt can be used to protect the belayer. Then make your way up the lovely water warn face and desperately establish your self on the slab. From here the climb rears up again to the crux section. A nice technical test.
Kieran Parsons 2019
The Tardis 15 7m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
On the small buttress to the left of Chain Gang. Start up the crack which is easily protected then clip the bolt and pull the entertaining mantle. Lower off the chain or walk off the back. Worth a moment of your time.
Kieran Parsons 2017
JAM JAM 21 8m
0
3bolts
Start to the right of the first bolt. Harder than it looks, especially if you go direct. Nice moves on the upper section.
Ben Rohde 2018
CG Chain Gang 15 14m
0
4bolts
The line with chain link hangers, right of the broken corner with the beehive. If you don't mind the bees they don't mind you. The route climbs well and is a good introduction to the crag.
Unknown
BB Bogan to the Bone 16 15m
0
6bolts
A pleasant route that eases off near the top. Retro bolted (2017) to remove the ground fall potential.
Unknown
HD Heart of the Desert 17 15m
1.02
6bolts
Good face climbing with the crux protected by the first bolt. Shares the anchor on the face with ASAA or alternatively you can top out to the old anchor.
Kieran Parsons 2017
SAA A Shade of Afternoon Arête 19 15m
0
6bolts
Left of the prominent arête. Start to the left of the ruins with a rising traverse past the first bolt (please do not start on the ruins). This line is sustained and it will keep you engaged all the way to the top. New anchor with rings on the face or you can top out to the old anchor.
Jamie Hall, 2017
NE No Excuses 22 14m
2.01
6bolts
Start over the stone wall just right of the arête, then climb the arête proper to the small shelf with a half rest before tackling the crux. Rest at the ledge but keep your head in the game for the final section. Steeper than it looks.
Kieran Parsons, Ben Rohde 2017
BOW Take a BOW 21 15m
1.02
5bolts
Starts a meter right of No Excuses. Climbs the big flake and then directly tackles the upper face. Beware of the grey rock at the bottom of the climb as it is a little friable but improving with traffic.
Ben Rohde 2017
CP Cherry Picker 20 14m
1.02
6bolts
Stiff moves off the ground then up the slopey slab before making a couple of high tension moves to establish your feet on the right leaning ramp. Less jugs than you might like for the gently overhanging finish.
Kieran Parsons 2018
Sands of Thyme 24 10m
1.02
4bolts
On the short but steep wall. Technical moves from start to finish make this an enjoyable route. The rock will continue to clean up with more ascents.
Tanja de Wilde 2018
It's Business Thyme 21 15m
1.02
5bolts
Start on the left hand side of toe of the buttress right of Sands of Thyme. This line tackles the narrow face of brown to black rock just left of the arete. Enjoyable climbing on steepening rock with good holds. Keep left of the arete at the top. 18ish if you use the holds on the right of the arete.
Steve Fortune 2018
Thyme is Money 11 15m
0
6bolts
Nice climbing on the slab at the beach. Negotiate the little bulge at the first bolt and then you're away. Good quality rock. Top roped for years but bolted to lead by Kieran Parsons, 2019.
Quick Thyme 12 10m
1.02
5bolts
Located on the right hand side of the gully above the beach. A good and consistent route for beginners, or your last climbing before a swim in the river. Grade 15 if you climb it in bare feet.
Vaughan Snowdon 2017
Thyme Sharing 14 10m
0
wire representing trad
The dirty crack just right of Quick Thyme. The first ascent was on double ropes and made use of the third bolt of the adjacent route. The gear in the middle section should be treated with great caution. Not for the inexperienced trad climber, despite the grade.
Graham Smith, 2019
Warrior on the Edge of Thyme 16 13m
0
wire representing trad
The obvious right leaning crack and semi detached pillar above the beach. Hand jam or lay back as you burry your big hexes and nuts in this beauty - it can be hard to see all the way into the depths when placing gear. Then slip through the willow leaves onto the tricky upper section with less than satisfying pro. There is a loose but keyed in block at about half height. The first ascent, in good 1975 fashion, was made using only hexes and nuts. A good test of ones head space and not a route to be taken lightly. Anchor 4m back from the edge.
Graham Smith, 2019

Places

Type Title Edit link
Wall Cheese Grater (main area) (0 routes)
Wall Sands Wall and Thyme Gully (0 routes)
Wall The Mine Shaft (0 routes)