Bannockburn | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

200m

Part of

Nice crag by the lake. Mostly good rock. The routes are described from left to right, starting at the small buttress east of the big gum tree. This main wall is shaded by early afternoon and the steeper northeast facing routes are in the shade by 5pm in summer. There is a good swimming hole just a few meters from the base of the crag.

Walktime

Aspect

East

Lat/lon

-45.080248,169.169669, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

CC12 985 010

Approach

Driving from Cromwell to Bannockburn on Bannockburn Road, cross bridge over the Kawarau River, turn left onto Cairnmuir Road. Pull over at first pullout on left and walk down and left to crag. It is easy to walk to either the top of the crag to set up topropes or to the bottom to lead.

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Places

Type	Name	Alert
Sector	Main Wall
Sector	Sands Wall and Thyme Gully
Sector	The Mine Shaft

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Sluice Box, 23	23	12m	4	1.02
P1 23 12m 4 This route is located on the small buttress beyond the big gum tree. Tough moves to set up for and mantle the bulge. Pleasant from here up the slab and though the overlap.
	Flash in the Pan, 21	21	12m	6	1.02
P1 21 12m 6 This route is located on the small buttress beyond the big gum tree. Clip the first bolt from the boulder, this bolt can be used to protect the belayer. Then make your way up the lovely water warn face and desperately establish your self on the slab. From here the climb rears up again to the crux section. A nice technical test.
	Fool's Gold, 21	21	10m	4	0
Right of Flash in the Pan. Start in the groove below first bolt and resisting the temptation to drift right. The water worn slab is followed by a slightly overhanging section above which makes for a nice contrast. P1 21 10m 4
	The Tardis, 15	15	7m	1	0
On the small buttress to the left of Chain Gang. Start up the crack which is easily protected then clip the bolt and pull the entertaining mantle. Lower off the chain or walk off the back. Worth a moment of your time. P1 15 7m 1 Trad
JAM	JAMJAM, 21	21	8m	3	0
P1 21 8m 3 Start to the right of the first bolt. Harder than it looks, especially if you go direct. Nice moves on the upper section.
	Beehive Corner, 14	14	14m		0
The corner may also be home to a possum. Takes large gear but nicest to toprope from Chain Gang. P1 14 14m Trad
CG	CGChain Gang, 15	15	14m	4	0
P1 15 14m 4 Right of the broken corner with the beehive. If you don't mind the bees they don't mind you. The route climbs well and is a good introduction to the crag. One of the original routes circa 1991, it was re-bolted in 2021. First ascent unknown.
BB	BBBogan to the Bone, 16	16	15m	6	0
P1 16 15m 6 A pleasant route that eases off near the top. One of the original routes circa 1991, retro bolted in 2017 to remove the significant ground fall potential. First ascent unknown.
HD	HDHeart of the Desert, 17	17	15m	6	1.02
P1 17 15m 6 Good face climbing with the crux protected by the first bolt.
SAA	SAAA Shade of Afternoon Arête, 19	19	15m	6	0
P1 19 15m 6 Left of the prominent arête. Start to the left of the ruins with a rising traverse past the first bolt. This line is sustained and it will keep you engaged all the way to the top. New anchor with rings on the face or you can top out to the old anchor.
NE	NENo Excuses, 22	22	16m	7	2.01
Start over the stone wall just right of the arête, then climb the arête proper to the small shelf with a half rest before tackling the crux. Rest at the ledge but keep your head in the game for the final section. Steeper than it looks. P1 22 16m 7
BOW	BOWTake a BOW, 21	21	15m	5	1.02
P1 21 15m 5 Starts a meter right of No Excuses. Climb the big flake then step 2m right and tackle the upper face.
	Pick and Mix, 18	18	0m	7	0
Starts right of TBOW and then crosses TBOW at the ledge to finish on the left. You can mix the start and finish of both routes for variants. Grade is provisional. P1 18 7
CP	CPCherry Picker, 20	20	14m	6	1.02
Stiff moves off the ground then up the slopey slab before making a couple of high tension moves to establish your feet on the right leaning ramp. Less jugs than you might like for the gently overhanging finish. P1 20 14m 6
	Thyming is Everything , 24	24	14m	6	1.02
P1 24 14m 6 Crank through the thin, steep crux.
	Thyme Will Tell, 23	23	14m	5	0
Big moves from the 4th bolt, mostly using large edges. P1 23 14m 5
	About Thyme, 12	12	16m		0
The obvious, broken corner and ramp to the right of Thyming is Everyuthing. This route does not come recommended. Finishes on the access anchors for the Sands of Thyme Area - no rings. P1 12 16m Trad
	Just in Thyme, 24	24	0m	3	1.02
Start on the brown rock to the left - worth stick clipping the first bolt - then up the right hand side of the arête. Clip the left ring from high on the arête then hand traverse to clip the right ring. This line strikes a pleasant harmony between power, balance and core tension. However, the rock is friable but should continue to clean up with traffic. P1 24 3
	Sands of Thyme, 24	24	10m	4	2.01
On the short but steep wall. Move right after 4th bolt. Technical moves from start to finish make this an enjoyable route. P1 24 10m 4
	A Thyme to Remember, 21	21	13m	6	0
Scrambling start from left to right followed by fun jug hauling with a short, crimpy crux section and mantle above. Clipping the anchor is strenuous but well protected by the last bolt. P1 21 13m 6
	It's Business Thyme, 19	19	15m	5	1.02
Start on the left hand side of toe of the buttress right of Sands of Thyme. This line tackles the narrow face of brown to black rock just left of the arete. Enjoyable climbing on steepening rock with good holds. Keep left of the arete at the top. 18ish if you use the holds on the right of the arete. P1 19 15m 5
	Space-thyme continuum, 12	12	16m	6	1.02
P1 12 16m 6 Climbs the slab side of the arete, to the left of 'Thyme is Money'. At the 5th bolt ledge either step up to clip (feels exposed but is technically straight-forward) or else borrow a bolt from 'Thyme is Money' and extend it. Nice climbing.
	Thyme is Money, 11	11	15m	6	0
Nice climbing on the slab at the beach. Negotiate the little bulge at the first bolt and then you're away. Good quality rock. Top roped for years but bolted to lead by Kieran Parsons, 2019. P1 11 15m 6
	Thymeless, 14	14	16m	8	0
P1 14 16m 8 To the right of 'Thyme is Money'. Thin opening moves, then cruise straight up the centre of the slab.
	No thyme to die, 10	10	10m	5	0
P1 10 10m 5 The right hand side of the slab by the beach. Clip first bolt from obvious semi-detached flake. Beware that rock quality deteriorates towards top of climb.
	Quick Thyme, 12	12	10m	5	1.02
Located on the right hand side of the gully above the beach. A good and consistent route for beginners, or your last climb before a swim in the river. Grade 15 if you climb it with bare feet. P1 12 10m 5
	Thyme Sharing, 14	14	10m		0
The dirty crack just right of Quick Thyme. The first ascent was on double ropes and made use of the third bolt of the adjacent route. The gear in the middle section should be treated with great caution. Not for the inexperienced trad climber, despite the grade. P1 14 10m Trad
	Warrior on the Edge of Thyme, 17	17	13m		0
P1 17 13m Trad The obvious right leaning crack and semi detached pillar above the beach. Hand jam or lay back as you burry your big hexes and nuts in this beauty - it can be hard to see all the way into the depths when placing gear. Then slip through the willow leaves onto the tricky upper section with less than satisfying pro. There is a loose but keyed in block at about half height. The first ascent, in good 1975 fashion, was made using only hexes and nuts. A good test of ones head space and not a route to be taken lightly. Chain anchor.
	The Land Before Thyme, 21	21	13m	6	0
Extend the first bolt for the rising traverse them move to the arete bewteen the 4th and 5th bolts before heading up direct. Fun climbing but friable rock. P1 21 13m 6

Comments

Kieran Parsons

climbnz_editor

Hi Dave, yip, I'm local. Great work on all that cleaning, sounds like you put a lot of effort in. I went and had a scramble round on the slab and it looked like a lot of the loose rock has been removed. From experience, a leaf blower helps a lot with that final clean ;-) Thanks for adding the extra lines. I'll get in contact via email if you I have any further thoughts on the bolting. Feel free to reach out to the local climbing page called Central Otago Rock Climbing on Facebook if you're back in the area sometime and want to get out to some other crags - loads more development options available too.

Sat, 25/06/2022 - 12:50 Permalink

Dave Ryan

The beginner slab at the beach now has x4 bolted beginner lines, ranging from grade 10-14 ("Space-Thyme Continuum", "Thyme is Money" [existing climb], "Thymeless" and "No Thyme To Die"). Beware the new climbs are currently dirty and will need a good rain and/or scrub. Some loose blocks were removed, though keep an eye out for more. New climbs' grades are open to moderation. A great spot for teaching leading.

Mon, 13/06/2022 - 15:46 Permalink

Kieran Parsons

climbnz_editor

Hi Dave, just reading through the descriptions of the 3x new lines. Space-Thyme Continuum is mostly new so you can probably claim the FA on that one (looks like a nice line too) as I've only seen the bottom handful of moves top roped from the Thyme is Money anchor. Thymless has been top roped and abseiled for years. We did a couple of hours cleaning of that line back in 2019 with the intention of bolting it to lead and then decided the rock was pretty marginal for bolts... No Thyme to Die has been scrambled on before. The rock is pretty loose the further right you go on that slab. One consideration is that the beach can have up to 20 people there on a hot summers days. Have all the loose blocks been removed? It's one thing to break a little crimp but another to pull a block out...

Tue, 14/06/2022 - 09:58 Permalink

Dave Ryan

Hi Kieran, cheers for your comments. Nice to hear about some of the history of the climbs. I can understand your concerns - for sure the rock quality decreases as you head R on the slab, and there are definitely places you wouldn't place bolts due to rotten rock. We certainly took a long time assessing each bolt placement to make sure they went in to good rock, and we yarded, yanked and kicked at blocks and got a tyre-iron involved too. We pried off 3 computer-screen sized blocks and a number of smaller ones. Due diligence was completed, but it would be remiss of me to say that we definitely got it all (as would be the case with any natural rock crag). I take it you're a local? It's a great resource you've got down there. Feel free to email me any feedback about the routes: dave.mark.ryan@gmail.com. Cheers and happy climbing.

Wed, 15/06/2022 - 08:57 Permalink

UUID

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