Bannockburn Bridge - Cromwell

(12 routes)

Nice crag by the lake. Mostly good rock. The routes are described from left to right, starting small buttress to the left of prominent east facing wall. This wall is shaded by early afternoon and the steeper northeast facing routes are in the shade by 5pm in summer. There is a good swimming hole metres from the base of the crag.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
200m
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
3
Access: 

Driving from Cromwell to Bannockburn on Bannockburn Road, cross bridge over the Kawarau River, turn left onto Cairnmuir Road. Pull over at first pullout on left and walk down and left to crag. It is easy to walk to either the top of the crag to set up topropes or to the bottom to lead.

Lat/Lon: 
-45.080248000000, 169.169669000000
NZMS260: 
F41 085 627
Topo50: 
CC12 985 010
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
The Tardis 15 7m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
On the small buttress to the left of Chain Gang. Start up the crack which is easily protected then clip the bolt and pull the entertaining mantle. Lower off the chain or walk off the back. Worth a moment of your time.
Kieran Parsons 2017
JAM 21 8m
0
3bolts
Start to the right of the first bolt. Harder tan it looks, especially if you go direct. Nice moves on the upper section.
Ben Rohde 2018
Chain Gang 15 14m
0
4bolts
The line with chain link hangers, right of the broken corner with the beehive. If you don't mind the bees they don't mind you. The route climbs well and is a good introduction to the crag.
Unknown
Bogan to the Bone 16 15m
0
6bolts
A pleasant route that eases off near the top. Retro bolted to remove the ground fall potential.
Unknown
Heart of the Desert 17 15m
1.02
6bolts
Good face climbing with the crux protected by the first bolt.
Kieran Parsons 2017
A Shade of Afternoon Arête 18 15m
0
5bolts
Left of the prominent arête. Start to the left of the ruins with a rising traverse past the first bolt (please do not start on the ruins). This line is sustained and it will keep you engaged all the way to the top.
Jamie Hall, 2017
No Excuses 22 14m
2.01
6bolts
Start over the stone wall just right of the arête, then climb the arête proper to the small shelf with a half rest before tackling the crux. Rest at the ledge but keep your head in the game for the final section. Steeper than it looks.
Kieran Parsons, Ben Rohde 2017
Take a BOW 21 15m
1.02
5bolts
Starts a meter right of No Excuses. Climbs the big flake and then directly tackles the upper face. Beware of the grey rock at the bottom of the climb as it is a little friable but improving with traffic.
Ben Rohde 2017
Cherry Picker 20 14m
1.02
6bolts
Stiff moves off the ground then up the slopey slab before making a couple of high tension moves to establish your feet on the right leaning ramp. Less jugs than you might like for the gently overhanging finish.
Kieran Parsons 2018
Sands of Thyme 24 10m
1.02
4bolts
On the short but steep wall. Technical moves from start to finish make this an enjoyable route. The rock will continue to clean up with more ascents.
Tanja de Wilde 2018
It's Business Thyme 21 15m
1.02
5bolts
15m right of Cherry picker, just before the swimming hole. This line tackles the narrow face of brown to black rock just left of the arete. Enjoyable climbing on steepening rock with good holds. Keep left of the arete at the top.
Steve Fortune 2018
Quick Thyme 12 10m
1.02
5bolts
Located on the right hand side of the gully above the beach. A good and consistent route for beginners, or your last climbing before a swim in the river. Grade 15 if you climb it in bare feet.
Vaughan Snowdon 2017