Place info
Bannockburn Bridge - Cromwell
(12 routes)
Nice crag by the lake. Mostly good rock. The routes are described from left to right, starting small buttress to the left of prominent east facing wall. This wall is shaded by early afternoon and the steeper northeast facing routes are in the shade by 5pm in summer. There is a good swimming hole metres from the base of the crag.
- East
Aspect
- 3
Walk in
- 200m
Altitude
Nice crag by the lake. Mostly good rock. The routes are described from left to right, starting small buttress to the left of prominent east facing wall. This wall is shaded by early afternoon and the steeper northeast facing routes are in the shade by 5pm in summer. There is a good swimming hole metres from the base of the crag.
Driving from Cromwell to Bannockburn on Bannockburn Road, cross bridge over the Kawarau River, turn left onto Cairnmuir Road. Pull over at first pullout on left and walk down and left to crag. It is easy to walk to either the top of the crag to set up topropes or to the bottom to lead.
| Reference | Name | Grade | Quality | Length | Comments | Actions | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
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16
|
|
7m
|
1
 |
 |
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On the small buttress to the left of Chain Gang. Start up the crack which is easily protected then clip the bolt and pull the entertaining mantle. Lower off the chain or walk off the back. Worth a moment of your time. Kieran Parsons 2017 |
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21
|
|
8m
|
3
|
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Start to the right of the first bolt. Harder tan it looks, especially if you go direct. Nice moves on the upper section. Ben Rohde 2018 |
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15
|
|
14m
|
4
|
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The line with chain link hangers, right of the broken corner with the beehive. If you don't mind the bees they don't mind you. The route climbs well and is a good introduction to the crag. Unknown |
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16
|
|
15m
|
6
|
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A pleasant route that eases off near the top. Retro bolted to remove the ground fall potential. Unknown |
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17
|
|
15m
|
6
|
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Good face climbing with the crux protected by the first bolt. Kieran Parsons 2017 |
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18
|
|
15m
|
5
|
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Left of the prominent arête. Start to the left of the ruins with a rising traverse past the first bolt (please do not start on the ruins). This line is sustained and it will keep you engaged all the way to the top. Jamie Hall, 2017 |
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|
22
|
|
14m
|
6
|
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Start over the stone wall just right of the arête, then climb the arête proper to the small shelf with a half rest before tackling the crux. Rest at the ledge but keep your head in the game for the final section. Steeper than it looks. Kieran Parsons, Ben Rohde 2017 |
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21
|
|
15m
|
5
|
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Starts a meter right of No Excuses. Climbs the big flake and then directly tackles the upper face. Beware of the grey rock at the bottom of the climb as it is a little friable but improving with traffic. Ben Rohde 2017 |
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|
20
|
|
14m
|
6
|
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Stiff moves off the ground then up the slopey slab before making a couple of high tension moves to establish your feet on the right leaning ramp. Less jugs than you might like for the gently overhanging finish. Kieran Parsons 2018 |
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On the short but steep wall. Equipped by Sarah Tiong, Kieran Parsons and Steve Fortune. |
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21
|
|
15m
|
5
|
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15m right of Cherry picker, just before the swimming hole. This line tackles the narrow face of brown to black rock just left of the arete. Enjoyable climbing on steepening rock with good holds. Keep left of the arete at the top. Steve Fortune 2018 |
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12
|
|
10m
|
5
|
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Located on the right hand side of the gully above the beach. A good and consistent route for beginners, or your last climbing before a swim in the river. Grade 15 if you climb it in bare feet. Vaughan Snowdon 2017 |
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