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A very narrow gully starts from the left edge of the North Face fan (North Face route) and exits on easy slopes below the summit. The route is visible from points south-west of the hut. Belay up a 2m step of water ice over steep rock (small wedge or piton needed). Continue over a smaller ice step and then easier ground. Note that the steep walls above the gully catch the early morning sun, so be sure to reach the upper gully before the hummers reach you.