A remote and very long route from the Waiau Toa Clarence valley. The lower part of the ridge – Fidget Spur – can be reached in two ways. One is from the end of the 4WD track at Stony Flat on the south bank of the Waiau Toa Clarence River (55 km from Kahutara Bridge on the Inland Kaikoura Road). The alternative is from the lower Waiau Toa Clarence, via George Saddle and Haycock Saddle and picking up an old overgrown pack route which sidles westwards and descends to Fidget Stream. Gain the ridge on the true left of Fidget Stream by any convenient side spur. Abseil into the crux, an 80m deep notch. Continue climbing on solid rock till a second 25m deep notch is reached, abseil into this, and then easier ground to the summit.
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Dave Barker, Roger Redmayne, Trevor Bissell, Bruce Anderson, February 1986