Staircase Stream Routes

Type: 
Alpine
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
120mNo
 Via HODDER RV. ‘Tappy’ is mostly rock and scree in summer, when foot trails and occasional cairns mark the route. In winter this route is not technically difficult, but it's still a big climb. From the huts follow the terrace and then across scree to the junction with Staircase Stream. Keep to the true right of Staircase Stream, across terraces, to the waterfall creek. Continue up easy slopes towards the saddle between Alarm and Tapuae-o-Uenuku, then head east, angling left under a rocky peak 2711m and up the south-west ridge to the summit. An alternative is to sidle into a basin above the waterfall and then into the basin north-west of the summit. Climb from the head of the basin to the north ridge, or else directly south-west to the top. Descend the same way, or follow the north ridge and drop down a gully just before Pinnacle (2720m).
Grade: 
2
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Nehemiah McRae, probably 1864.
UUID: 
e8106542-abca-4522-9ea2-3fd97442cb0b