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The Factory

Type

The Factory is 5-10 minutes up-river form the Knot Factory. Once you get through the band of seeping rock at the base, the climbing is steep and difficult on well featured rock.
Acess is up a small stream that branches of the main river. As of 2022 there are only three completed lines that begin from a fixed line. Two other projects, Up the Guts (33) and Lexington Avenue (31/32) are both open and will be excellent steep testpieces once freed.
There is a camp spot right at the base of the overhang with plenty of water from the stream. With the short approach, it is practical to walk in and out the same day, so camping out of the gorge is encouraged to reduce impact on the area.

Image
Walktime
35-45mins
Aspect
East
Access

After the river opens out, cross to the left bank as the river bends right and rapids start again. Climb over the large log on the left bank, and up the tributary stream. The Factory waits five minutes upstream.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
PEI PEIThe Exploding Plastic Inevitable, 25 25 15m 5
1.02

The left most line straight up through the overlaps
Begins from permawet area, so fixed line is required to gain start.


  • P1
  • 25
  • 15m
  • 5

WTM WTMWelcome to the Machine, 26 26 20m 10
1.02

Traverse rightwards from the end of the fixed line then straighten up to join the tufa
https://vimeo.com/22867173


  • P1
  • 26
  • 20m
  • 10

ISA ISAI Shot Andy Worhol, 27 27 15m 7
1.02

Starts as for previous routes but heads right for large hole in rock where projects also finish.


  • P1
  • 27
  • 15m
  • 7

Comments
Attribution
James Morris
UUID
 
76ca1925-636e-4203-8f96-f935ea7efa3c