The Factory

(3 routes)

The Factory is 5-10 minutes up-river form the Knot Factory. Once you get through the band of seeping rock at the base, the climbing is steep and difficult on well featured rock.
Acess is up a small stream that branches of the main river. As of 2022 there are only three completed lines that begin from a fixed line. Two other projects, Up the Guts (33) and Lexington Avenue (31/32) are both open and will be excellent steep testpieces once freed.

There is a camp spot right at the base of the overhang with plenty of water from the stream. With the short approach, it is practical to walk in and out the same day, so camping out of the gorge is encouraged to reduce impact on the area.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
35-45mins
Access: 

After the river opens out, cross to the left bank as the river bends right and rapids start again. Climb over the large log on the left bank, and up the tributary stream. The Factory waits five minutes upstream.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
PEI The Exploding Plastic Inevitable 25 15m
1.02
5bolts
The left most line straight up through the overlaps Begins from permawet area, so fixed line is required to gain start.
Derek Thatcher 2011
WTM Welcome to the Machine 26 20m
1.02
10bolts
Traverse rightwards from the end of the fixed line then straighten up to join the tufa https://vimeo.com/22867173
Derek Thatcher 2011
ISA I Shot Andy Worhol 27 15m
1.02
7bolts
Starts as for previous routes but heads right for large hole in rock where projects also finish.
Derek Thatcher 2011
Attribution: 
James Morris
UUID: 
76ca1925-636e-4203-8f96-f935ea7efa3c