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Anatoki Pk

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Anatoki Peak is at the Northern end of the Douglas range.
This spectacular area of steep craggy peaks is well worth a visit. The best approach is from Drunken Sailors, which can be reached by following the route north along the Douglas Range to Lonely Lake Hut (3 bunks, basic). A good alternative approach is from the Anatoki River, following a bush spur south-west from map ref. M26/741269.
Approach from the North via Adelaide Tarn Hut is also possible

POINT (172.54096985 -40.96006721)
BP23 614 656
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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Drunken Sailors Route Grade 1+, 1 1

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 1

Occasional cairns mark the route, which mostly keeps at about 1440m, below the range crest. Good route finding skills essential. A rock slab halfway along can be crossed at its toe. Wonderful tarns and campsites on the ridge east of Anatoki Peak, and an easy scramble to the top.

 Anotaki from Adelaide Tarn Hut Grade 2, 2 2

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2

Climb tussock slopes above Adelaide Tarn Hut (4 bunks, basic) to a saddle above, and locate cairns which mark a route that sidles near the bushline on the southern slopes of Mt Douglas and into a gulch along the ridge. Continue on the eastern side of the ridge, where occasional cairns and blazes mark a route through bush to an open snowgrass and slab section below a tooth. (Climb directly up snowgrass and scree to the top as a side trip.) Follow more cairns and blazes onto Anatoki Peak, but it is a demanding route and requires a rope to climb a steep exposed rock cliff. This is tiger country with no easy exits. For the well-prepared who wish to try it: From below the northern tooth, follow the first ridge up for 50m, then sidle across, down to the bush edge, where there is a large cairn. Follow blazes through bush. The route then goes along the side of a steep spur. Cross a stream and down through a patch of bush before coming out on a scrubby ledge (small campsite here). Along the ledge, a coil of wire indicates the start of a zigzag ‘staircase’ with small blazes, which leads up a scrubby 70m cliff. Then climb diagonally up steep rock (a rope should be used on this pitch) to the ridge and cairns at the top. Cross to the next spur beyond the tarn, sidling down in a southerly direction, through slabs past the tarn. From two cairns, go down a spur on snowgrass or slabs for 100m, directly to the bush. Look for markers to the left of and below an enormous rock in the bush. Bushcrash for 30m, climb a bank, then follow down an open ledge. The route crosses prominent streams to a rocky creek. Beyond the creek, climb a steep 70m bushy face to the ridge east of Anatoki Peak

Ben Winnubst