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Intergalactic Wall

Type
Sector
Part of
Fyfe River Gorge

The Intergalactic Wall is currently the most developed crag in the gorge and comprises a good range of difficulty and terrain. The left wall contains excellent face and tufa climbing while the right offers powerful climbing with short, steep routes.
Camping: Space Camp is directly under Apres Moi De Deluge and can sleep around seven people on the dusty ledges. You will need to bring water up from the river as there is no water source at the crag.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
AP APApollo Thirteen, 22 22 25m 10
2.01
  • P1
  • 22
  • 25m
  • 10

Long 25 route starting to the left of the pillar at the start of Intergalactic Wall.

NSA NSANo Smeggin' Atmosphere, 21 21 30m 8
2.01
  • P1
  • 21
  • 30m
  • 8

Either up the chimney/pillar left of Why Bother to the ledge the up the face to the right of Apollo Thirteen.

WB WBWhy Bother, 23 23 30m 10
2.01

Climb the excellent yet surprisingly difficult face after mounting the flake.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 30m
  • 10
SC SCSpace Cadet, 23 23 30m 13
3

Excellent long route that has a break in a small cave halfway up. One of the best 'easy' routes on the cliff face.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 30m
  • 13
HM HMThe Hairy Man, 22 22 30m 11
1.02

One metre to the right of Space Cadet, follows arete up into the cave then exits left. Shares anchor with Cosmonaut Silver Back

  • P1
  • 22
  • 30m
  • 11
CSB CSBCosmonaut Silver Back, 25 25 30m 11
3

Mantle to tenuous face climbing until a rest in the cave then tackle the small roof and exposed pillar to top out.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 30m
  • 11
CO COCaulli-olli, 24 24 20m 8
2.01

First lower (L1) of Broc-olli (27) at 20m. Technical faint tufa involves smearing. Right of Cosmonaut Silver Back by a few metres. Excellent technical climbing.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 8
BO BOBroc-olli, 28 28 35m 15
2.01

Pumpy extension to Caulli-olli. Unrepeated as of yet.

  • P1
  • 28
  • 35m
  • 15
SSS SSSSupersonic Saxaphone, 27 27 25m 15
3

Awesome route. Smeary technical slab leads to rest then slightly overhanging tufa climbing pumps and pumps until the finish. One of the best 27s in the country, albeit soft.

  • P1
  • 27
  • 25m
  • 15
MTF MTFMay The Force, 28 28 30m 13
3

The harder version of supersonic saxaphone. Shares intial few bolts then trends right up technical slab to tufas and underclings to finish. Pumpy and difficult.

  • P1
  • 28
  • 30m
  • 13
LUN LUNLunacy, 25 25 27m 10
3

Excellent facey route slightly further along the wall from MTF. Dusty rock doesn't detract from one of the best climbs on the wall.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 27m
  • 10
MES MESMetric Expansion of Space, 25 25 25m 10
1.02

Sharp crimpy face on the yellow rock to the right of Lunacy, of which it shares the anchors.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 25m
  • 10
CG CGCosmic Girl, 26 26 25m 7
2.01

Technical face climbing with pockets here and there.

  • P1
  • 26
  • 25m
  • 7
MT MTMajor Tom, 24 24 25m 10
3

Bowie must be played whilst sending. Head from the ground (control) to the top via nice crimps and a few pockets. Excellent climb.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 25m
  • 10
GYR GYRGyrectomy, 22 22 20m 10
1.02

Pockety start to cool caulifower flow, finishs bridging between to massive tufas. Beware rather sharp.
https://youtu.be/xa4JaGD3fos

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 10
SC SCSpace Cowboy, 30 30 45m 18
3

The massive epic amazing tufa that spans 45 metres up the centre of the wall. Hard V8 boulder at 30m to easy finish.
26 to two thirds anchor.
Photo Tom Hoyle

  • P1
  • 30
  • 45m
  • 18
MEG MEGMegalomania, 25 25 30m 10
3

The first route bolted at cliff. Easy slab meanders up corner then heads up face on tufas that are delightful to pinch.
https://youtu.be/xa4JaGD3fos

  • P1
  • 25
  • 30m
  • 10
MEG EX MEG EXMegalomania Extension, 28 28 50m 17
3

The first route established on the wall proper, bolted by Tom Hoyle in 2009. An extra 20m of epic tufa climbing after the anchors of L1. Crux after anchors then gets easier to the top. Really epic. 50 metres.
Uncertain of bolts, bring more to be safe.

  • P1
  • 28
  • 50m
  • 17
ELE ELEThe Elephant, 26 26
2.01

Start up Megalomania but head straight up the large single tufa. Unique climbing
HGG HGGHitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy, 29 29 31m 13
3

To the right of Megalomania, hard slab to good rest in a hole. Tackle the small twin tufa and then run up the mega rad headwall on sustained climbing. "The closest thing to Biographie in Aotearoa."
Photo Credit Tom Hoyle, Jake Townshend, Troy Mattingley

  • P1
  • 29
  • 31m
  • 13
LH LHLost Highway, 30 30 45m 15
3

Psuedo extension to HGG, after penultimate bolt head left and up into the sustained and engaging headwall. Super rad.
Photo Credit Troy Mattingley

  • P1
  • 30
  • 45m
  • 15
TS TSTuna Sandwhich, 24 24 30m 8
3

Starts just to the right of Hitchhikers and continues rightwards to head upwards where the Direct meets the chimney

  • P1
  • 24
  • 30m
  • 8
HH HHHammerhead, 31 31 15m 6
1.02

V11 compression boulder of the deck into easy topout. 15 metres right of The Lost Highway, follow a path down into space camp, and this the furthest left line on black and white ripples on a steep overhang.

  • P1
  • 31
  • 15m
  • 6
TGW TGWThe Great White, 29 29 15m 7
2.01

Underclings and difficult moves off the deck that cease once the white 'fin' is reached.

  • P1
  • 29
  • 15m
  • 7
AMD AMDAprès moi, le déluge, 28 28 18m 10
2.01

"After me, the flood". From Space Camp, snake up a pockety dyke then trend right after crossing a tufa. Great top out.
Photo: Paul Bulbon

  • P1
  • 28
  • 18m
  • 10
WM WMSecret life of Walter Mitty, 22 22 15m 6
1.02

Variations and extension exist. Starts up cool underlcling features then heads left and trends back right to meet at the same anchors as COTU. Up the slope 5 metres from APMD.
Photo Credit Jake Townshend

  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 6
COU COUConquistadors of the Useless, 22 22 15m 5
2.01

Orignal route. Lol. Continues straight up from Walter Mitty through overlaps to finish at the same anchor. Worthwhile.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 5
LOM LOMLegend in your Own Mind, 25 25 30m 10
2.01

Interesting and cool climbing with a ranges of styles and a bouldery crux. Bolt Estimate

  • P1
  • 25
  • 30m
  • 10
WGH WGHWalter Gets High, 23 23 27m 9
2.01

Extension to Walter Mitty. Endurance route.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 27m
  • 9
LYC LYCLycanthrope, 25 25 18m 8
2.01

Werewolves! Continues straight up from the first bold of COTU into a steep overhang on suprisigly good holds to finish on Paynes Ford-esque slopers.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 18m
  • 8
YCT YCTYou Can't Handle the Tooth, 30 30 20m 9
1.02

Can you handle the tooth. Orthodontists beware. Splits off from LYC out rightwards at 5th bolt into very runout and morpho crux, eases off after that but there is a sting in the tail.

  • P1
  • 30
  • 20m
  • 9
MM MMMitty-esque, 26 26 20m 8
2.01

To the right of the start of Lycanthrope is a unqiue overhanging route with big moves

  • P1
  • 26
  • 20m
  • 8
MM MMMoa Method, 24 24 18m 8
2.01

To the right of Mitty-esque is another steep engaging route. Good fun

  • P1
  • 24
  • 18m
  • 8
WLB WLBWalters Little Brother, 23 23 12m 4
1.02

Further right from Moa Method. Rather short route.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 12m
  • 4
WRH WRHWalters Right Hand, 24 24 12m 4
1.02

Right hand variant, sharing start and anchor with WLB

  • P1
  • 24
  • 12m
  • 4
PS PSParadigm Shift, 32 32 45m 14
3

Mega rad yo.

  • P1
  • 32
  • 45m
  • 14

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UUID
 
3673592c-53d0-4a93-9b16-3078f1f1321b