Boaty McBoat Face

(2 routes)

Boaty McBoat Face is the Steep Brown Cliff next to Bridal Veil Falls. On the the scale of rock quality it doesn't get better. Logistical issues abound but it's definitely worth the trip no matter where you're from.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
0m
Access: 

There is a fixed hand line at sea level to get you to the bottom of the first pitches.

Lat/Lon: 
44.614514000000, 167.847233000000
Topo50: 
CA08 9116 4694
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Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Big Fish 26,25,24,28,25,27,19 116m
3
wire representing trad
Starts at a black fixed line at sea level. Follow this is a single ring where the route starts. The first pitch suffers from seepage early in the morning. Best to climb and fix this in the afternoon and climb the rest the next day or rap in from the track. Single rack to #2 with doubles in 0.3-0.5. Small to medium wires only. Handy to have a tag line and haul a small pack. Too hard to climb with a pack on for most.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1260mNo
 

P1: 26 30m - Technical black wall with some powerful moves. Out of character from the rest of the route. All bolts

22525mYes
 

P2: 25 25m - Fishing tales - up face to crack and through overlap. Hard technical climbing up rightwards traverse. Bolts and small to medium gear.

32425mYes
 

P3: 24 25m - Seven gills - burly through overlap and then very enjoyable face climbing on great holds. Single rack and bolts

4288mYes
 

P4: 28 8m - Snickers Roof - crux boulder leads to steep pulls on good holds. Bolted to A0. At the end place a cam up in the crack to the left to protect the second into the belay. 1x 0.75 ,1 and bolts

52530mYes
 

P5: 25 30m - "5.9 pitch"- up hand/finger crack to steep, very exciting pulling over the bulge. Head back left on moderate ground to belay on comfy ledge. Take all the gear, some bolts

62720mNo
 

P6: 27 20m - Up and right on good holds. Pitch steepens to an outrageous crux (same last 10m as Freediver). Wave to the spectators. (Direct finish has not been freed.) all bolts

7198mNo
 

Short pitch to top of wall. 2 bolts
If walking off head right across ledge to bush. Track heads off right and then up to join the main decent track.

Llewellyn Murdoch, Bruce Dowrick and Jon Sedon Aug 2020
2 Freediver 27,25,24,26,26,27,19 158m
3
42bolts
Start at the Black fixed rope at sea level. Traverse under the first pitch of "Big Fish" and all the way right to the hanging bush ledge. two bolts mark the start of the route. Recommend clipping in as ledge is questionable and start of first pitch is hard. 6 draws, 6 extendable draws & 2 60m ropes. Great Rock, technical sequences and Outrageous exposure.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12730m7No
 

Pitch 1: 27, weave up the streaked wall past two technical cruxes and finish out right on "Manu Ledge'

22530m8No
 

Pitch 2: 25, Left and up short groove to tricky crux. then WAY out left on jugs to pod, then back right on more jugs. Take lots of long runners. Belay on big slab two bolts

32420m7No
 

Pitch 3: 24, down right of belay start the spooky ramp moving back to the arete, finish with pumpy steep climbing to hanging belay.

42620m6No
 

Pitch 4: 26, move left on massive jug rail, then up and right on moslty good holds but poor feet. ( the original variation goes straight up the arete now an open project and/or an easy A0 variation)

52625m6No
 

Pitch 5: Left of belay climbs roof through shallow groove. Back right at the lip and then up on big jugs to Exceptional belay ledge....Pumpy

62725m6No
 

Pitch 6: Many difficult sections with good shakes in between lead to the coup de grĂ¢ce, an overhanging prow right at the top of the wall. pumpy and full on.

7198m2No
 

Short pitch straight up to ledge. If walking off walk right and belay of tree once on flat ground.
Track traverses from here right and then up to join the main descent track.

Bruce Dowrick, Jon Sedon & Llewellyn Murdoch May 2021
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UUID: 
47d33c78-55b1-4548-a10c-78f7dd670d94