SW Face

(1 route)

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Whenua Mamao 18
0
5
Easily viewed and accessed from lake 1023 (or ridge to SE). 300 vertical metres, 2 parts. Follow prominent prow on lower face, then walk right on terrace (possible egress to S) to the upper prow. "Lowlands" (lower prow): Start from very toe of buttress up vegetated groove (or join rib higher up). Where it steepens to vertical chimney, exciting moves right on clumps of scrub (18?) to a traverse around arete (hand and foot rails) to right, then up to small terrace. On up buttress to a second large ledge. Take grassy L angling groove L of crest; partway up break out right across slab (delicate for boots), max 15. Follow weaknesses left of arete. "Highlands"(upper prow): Starting just right of lowest point of arete, climb white granite flakes to right facing corner, then up on or near crest to a ledge. From here, easy ground slopes off to the left (optional start). Climb up left of crest (thin slab to beautiful orange corner) to crux at steep black band on crest. Face climb this beautiful compact rock on small holds (15) and scramble easily on up crest to ridge and summit. Scramble off via SE ridge.
Ruari Macfarlane, March 2020
UUID: 
ce03114a-80b4-406f-ac19-caeb253caa76